Sorry, someone back there mentioned the TRE nuts and I got confused.
Easily done when you're in a hurry and don't read the posts fully.

Thanks Gareth. Will give it a go. Yes, the wheel cylinders seem to be yet another disposable item!

Quote from: Gareth on Today at 12:03 PMI have always used an easy-bleed kit on my front brakes. My 109 has a servo from a S3 fitted, and has a single line master cylinder fitted with a plastic top.

I always use a tyre that is at 20psi as the air supply. I have a spare master cylinder cap, and leave it setup with the fluid feed pipe. When bled, I drain a little fluid with a syringe and put the normal cap back on. I also always put a couple of zip ties around the whole cylinder to keep the cap in place (learned by a messy experience!)

When the nipples are cracked open, a very good flow spurts out. It is a bit messy because its difficult to keep a pipe on the nipples to put into a jar, so I tend to put rags around the area and catch as much as possible.

Another big advantage is I can do it all solo.

This seems to get all the air out. I have had plenty of practice over the years, as wheel cylinders don't seem to last very long these days.

A while back (2010 ish I think) I had a Q plate S3, ex ministry vehicle, I got a dating letter from gaydon and the DVLA excepted it and was re registered as a T plate.

As already said, talk to Peter offline and he will advise.

Good luck, should be ok using correct channels, docs etc 

Yes - that's for the nut on the end, nyloc or castellated with split pin.

We are discussing here the track rod end clamps at 10 lbs ft.

 

I have always used an easy-bleed kit on my front brakes. My 109 has a servo from a S3 fitted, and has a single line master cylinder fitted with a plastic top.

I always use a tyre that is at 20psi as the air supply. I have a spare master cylinder cap, and leave it setup with the fluid feed pipe. When bled, I drain a little fluid with a syringe and put the normal cap back on. I also always put a couple of zip ties around the whole cylinder to keep the cap in place (learned by a messy experience!)

When the nipples are cracked open, a very good flow spurts out. It is a bit messy because its difficult to keep a pipe on the nipples to put into a jar, so I tend to put rags around the area and catch as much as possible.

Another big advantage is I can do it all solo.

This seems to get all the air out. I have had plenty of practice over the years, as wheel cylinders don't seem to last very long these days.

I thought the TREs were 30 lb/ft.

Further to my initial comment that Q plated vehicles appeared to need MOTs indefinitely, more digging in the guide notes produced this.
It seems my unmodified Q plater should be tax and test free next April.
  

Thanks for all the input. I have a torque wrench  - dug it out and adjusted all so at least the nuts are all evenly torqued. The clamps had to wound quite tight in order to grip the rods and to stop them turning.

What are the possible scenarios if everything is over tight (as in the TRE nuts)? Obvious if not tight enough, I guess!!

Thank you so much. It sounds like it's best to get them bled when they're in pieces, which is fine if it means I don't have to pump the pedal!

To be fair, the brakes are now quite good once you've pumped them...

Quote from: w3526602 on Today at 06:18 AMHi Ed,

I too have pondered on this, over the years.

As I see it, we require the minimum possible amount of air behind the wheel cylinders, which isn't easy, as the centre  lines of the front wheel cylinders  are horizontal, with the bleed nipples being on the centre lines, and pointing sideways ... meaning that there is air above the centre lines which cannot (in theory) be expelled.

Adjusting the shoes fully OFF, should allow the shoe pull-off springs to pull the pistons fully IN leaving NO room for unwanted air. But that assumes the adjusters, when fully OFF, are not touching the shoes, which would/could require both the holes in the back-plates, and the pins in the shoes, to be drilled in the exact correct positions ... but how can you tell?  Are there any similarly shaped shoes. intended for different marques, that are imported from the Third World and repackaged  as suitable for Land Rovers?   Wash your mouth, 602?

My solution is to assemble the shoes onto the back-plates, connect, and bleed (while the nipples are pointing vertically) BEFORE filling the back-plates to the swivels. All very contrived and time consuming ... but it works for me.

I have noticed, many times, over the years, advice to incline the vehicle prior to bleeding ... but does that advice appear in the FACTORY workshop manual?

OT, but many (50?) years ago, I got involve with the brakes on a mate's car, that could not be bled. I pointed out that the callipers were up-side-down, with the bleed nipples at the bottom, so impossible to evacuate all the air.

He had fitted the LH calliper to the RH end of the axle, and the RH calliper to the LH end of the axle, so both bleed nipples were at the bottom. An easy mistake for a "tyro" which, in my mind should have been designed to be impossible to make ... different centres on the bolt holes, for instance, or maybe different bolt diameters? Left hand threads on the left hand swivels?

602

Hi Ed,

I too have pondered on this, over the years.

As I see it, we require the minimum possible amount of air behind the wheel cylinders, which isn't easy, as the centre  lines of the front wheel cylinders  are horizontal, with the bleed nipples being on the centre lines, and pointing sideways ... meaning that there is air above the centre lines which cannot (in theory) be expelled.

Adjusting the shoes fully OFF, should allow the shoe pull-off springs to pull the pistons fully IN leaving NO room for unwanted air. But that assumes the adjusters, when fully OFF, are not touching the shoes, which would/could require both the holes in the back-plates, and the pins in the shoes, to be drilled in the exact correct positions ... but how can you tell?  Are there any similarly shaped shoes. intended for different marques, that are imported from the Third World and repackaged  as suitable for Land Rovers?   Wash your mouth, 602?

My solution is to assemble the shoes onto the back-plates, connect, and bleed (while the nipples are pointing vertically) BEFORE filling the back-plates to the swivels. All very contrived and time consuming ... but it works for me.

I have noticed, many times, over the years, advice to incline the vehicle prior to bleeding ... but does that advice appear in the FACTORY workshop manual?

OT, but many (50?) years ago, I got involve with the brakes on a mate's car, that could not be bled. I pointed out that the callipers were up-side-down, with the bleed nipples at the bottom, so impossible to evacuate all the air.

He had fitted the LH calliper to the RH end of the axle, and the RH calliper to the LH end of the axle, so both bleed nipples were at the bottom. An easy mistake for a "tyro" which, in my mind should have been designed to be impossible to make ... different centres on the bolt holes, for instance, or maybe different bolt diameters? Left hand threads on the left hand swivels?

602