Hello Everyone,
I'm new here. I bought a very rotten but very original 1971 Suffix H Series 2A 109 6 cylinder that had been sat the past 20 years and am beginning a resto. Have a new Richards chassis, a low mileage Fairey o/d and a few other bits collected and hoping to crack on next month.
I'll probably be making a nuisance of myself on here with lots of questions, so thanks in advance.
Thanks again,
Rory
Probably not many sixes about, the engines having something of a bad name got thrown out very often, I had a bitsa with a six chassis, to which I fitted the appropriate mounts for a 4 cyl. 2.25 worked fine but the engine Sat a bit further back and needed a few mods here and there.
Is yours a station wagon type or a regular LWB rear tub?
It's good that you're keeping the 6 pot engine as they're becoming something of a rarity.
Join the club and make use of the discounts available.
Hey thanks for the quick responses!
Yes, I'm keeping the 6, I know fuel economy is likely to be 12-15mpg, and it'll need regular manifold off action to keep exhaust valve clearances in check, but beyond that, it seems a strong unit. It was seized when I bought it, I pulled the head and soaked the pistons for 4 months, pounding them daily with a lump of 2x2 and some heat and it finally came free - I had a pact I would drive it from its resting place into the workshop! Surpisingly good compression once head was back on and starts and runs on six, but smokes like a chimney and bores were pitted, so will need a rebuild. It'll be my daily - I'm a tech on a few remote installs up here, and currently run a disco 3, but have hankered after one of these a long time so I'll be rebuilding each assembly to aim for some reasonable levels of reliability.
From the heritage certificate and the old crofter it came from mine was a truck cab intially, but he fitted a van roof with cat flap. Marks on the capping and the split rear door seem to corroborate that.
Good to know there's discounts available, will look into that.
Few questions for owner feedback already whilst planning parts.
Heated screens - anyone tried em? Any good?
Parabolics - current best supplier? I've been emailing a bit with Paul from GB springs
Piston and bearing supplier for 6's? Seems £750 plus vat for pistons and 200 per bearing set seems normal from FW Thorntons
Door tops? Rocky Mountains have been recommended by friends but wonder if there's any others I should be looking at?
Twin tank hook up options? Its got the factory fitted rear tank (probably need replacing) but im planning to put a military style drivers seat tank, seems there's more than one way to hook up fill and outlets? Its still running the original double ended SU pump under the drivers seat mounted to chassis. Should get me a decent way between fuel stops on 2 tanks
Planning to rebuild it stock as possible with the exception of door tops, O/D and couple of minor things. In that stock list is front brakes (twin leading shoe, servo assisted as standard on 6 cylinders). Is this wise or going to cause me hassle? Don't mind adjusting them every month/2k.
Thanks in advance and if there's recent coverage of any of that in threads I've missed just point me at them.
Oh and anywhere to recommend for a new VIN plate? mines missing, though the local knowledge history, heritage certificate and V5 as well as any date codes I've found stack up for its originality. Hoping there's a bit of dumb iron of original chassis left behind all the patches verifying that too.
Few pics of it as it stands
Great stuff 👍 I'd be inclined myself to keep the body and paint just as it is!
I drove a couple of sixes many years ago and borrowed one from a mate for a couple of weeks, the one I borrowed went like a rocket and was very nice to drive.
As he said above,v.good that you're keeping it as a six.
Heated screens are very good but make sure the alternator can cope with the extra load (about 17 amps in total).
I bought a set of UK made parabolics from Dingocroft last summer.
Definitely worth your while joining the Club itself. We can do the chassis plates:
"Chassis plates of the correct style for your model are available from our Vehicle Registrations Office -
[email protected]"
Quote from: Porkscratching on Dec 24, 2023, 08:01 PMGreat stuff 👍 I'd be inclined myself to keep the body and paint just as it is!
I drove a couple of sixes many years ago and borrowed one from a mate for a couple of weeks, the one I borrowed went like a rocket and was very nice to drive.
As he said above,v.good that you're keeping it as a six.
Och I'm pleased to hear it went well - I've never gotten to have a go in a healthy six yet and its hard to know what the book figures will actually feel like.
Hi Rory
There are more than a few 6 pot owners on here so you will likely get lots of help answering questions.
Parts are available from various suppliers.
I used Rocky Mountain Parabolics 2 leaf front 3 leaf rear and the 3 leaf are more than adequate even for a Dormobile.
The 2 way sliding door tops are very good quality but the are not original.
Here are a few pictures to inspire you.
Victor
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 24, 2023, 08:35 PMHeated screens are very good but make sure the alternator can cope with the extra load (about 17 amps in total).
I bought a set of UK made parabolics from Dingocroft last summer.
Good to know. I'll have a dig around for a supplier. I want to leave engine bay looking stock so probably will retain the dynamo control box and fit a "dynamator" to keep it looking right under there. Will check out Dingocroft. How have your para's been a year in? Much settle? Much extra waft in the cornering?
Quote from: island dormy on Dec 24, 2023, 09:35 PMHi Rory
There are more than a few 6 pot owners on here so you will likely get lots of help answering questions.
Parts are available from various suppliers.
I used Rocky Mountain Parabolics 2 leaf front 3 leaf rear and the 3 leaf are more than adequate even for a Dormobile.
The 2 way sliding door tops are very good quality but the are not original.
Here are a few pictures to inspire you.
Victor
That looks fantastic! I'm aiming a touch lower, as it would pain me to see every shiny finish dull with daily use, but I will refinish each individual part, just maybe not as far as replacing all the fasteners etc. Looks like a cracking job there though! How often do you find you need to tweak valve clearances? Also any feedback on MPG? (running an O/D?)
Yours looks a wee bit different to mine - mines got the inlet manifold cast into the head, yours looks separate? Seem to remember the NADA spec ones were more powerful?
Quote from: diffwhine on Dec 24, 2023, 08:39 PMDefinitely worth your while joining the Club itself. We can do the chassis plates:
"Chassis plates of the correct style for your model are available from our Vehicle Registrations Office - [email protected]"
That sounds good, I'll look that up. Anybody up my way in the club?
My parabolics were fitted last May so are still settling in. The Land Rover is a Series 3 petrol SWB hardtop. It doesn't wallow and is firm without being hard. The spring eye and chassis bushes are standard but the dampers were supplied with Poly bushes which would account for the former ride.
When fitting the chassis bushes and springs give the bolts a coating of copper grease. The Land Rover business that fitted my parabolics and chassis bushes had no problems in removing the old bolts that had been there for about 20 years because they had been coated with copper grease.
Hi Rory
Thank you for the compliments.
I have no clue on MPG I have only put about 1/2 a mile on it since it got restored....but its likely not going to be good, and the Nada 6 uses premium fuel to boot (9:1 compression) about 125 HP or so I'm told.
The Weslake cylinder head is very different from the lower power land rover 6. I modified a few things so mine is not totally Nada spec. I wanted a oil bath oil cleaner (That's what a old land rover should have it just looks correct) so I made one fit I just could not make myself hide that beautiful looking 6 cylinder engine under neath the huge air silence that was installed on the Nadas (kind of looks like a twin exhaust silencer).
Front brakes the landrover 6 cylinder design works fine just be aware the shoes are wider than the 4 cylinder and the wheel cylinders are also deferent .
The Rocky mountain parabolics ride fine a friend over here has had them on his for 15 years.
Victor
Well worth joining. My Series 3 had a complete suspension rebuild last May and I reckon I saved 7 years membership on the discount.
Six pots fo about 12/15 mpg IIRC. Overdrive will help.
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 24, 2023, 09:47 PMMy parabolics were fitted last May so are still settling in. The Land Rover is a Series 3 petrol SWB hardtop. It doesn't wallow and is firm without being hard. The spring eye and chassis bushes are standard but the dampers were supplied with Poly bushes which would account for the former ride.
When fitting the chassis bushes and springs give the bolts a coating of copper grease. The Land Rover business that fitted my parabolics and chassis bushes had no problems in removing the old bolts that had been there for about 20 years because they had been coated with copper grease.
Good to know. Thats the kind of ride I'm aiming for so will certainly have a look at those. Good reminder on the copper grease. Although I'm recently taken with Aluminium grease as it seems to work better where there's aluminium castings and steel fixings (not that that matters to spring fixings!)
:teacher
Don't forget, the 6-pot engine went into thousands of Rover P4 saloon cars :gold-cup
There are several clubs/forums for the Rover P4s and they can help with engine parts/suppliers.
I think in the Series 2 Land Rover world 6-pots have a bit of a bad name because most S2 owners deal with 4-pot engines ???
:RHD
Quote from: island dormy on Dec 24, 2023, 09:56 PMHi Rory
Thank you for the compliments.
I have no clue on MPG I have only put about 1/2 a mile on it since it got restored....but its likely not going to be good, and the Nada 6 uses premium fuel to boot (9:1 compression) about 125 HP or so I'm told.
The Weslake cylinder head is very different from the lower power land rover 6. I modified a few things so mine is not totally Nada spec. I wanted a oil bath oil cleaner (That's what a old land rover should have it just looks correct) so I made one fit I just could not make myself hide that beautiful looking 6 cylinder engine under neath the huge air silence that was installed on the Nadas (kind of looks like a twin exhaust silencer).
Front brakes the landrover 6 cylinder design works fine just be aware the shoes are wider than the 4 cylinder and the wheel cylinders are also deferent .
The Rocky mountain parabolics ride fine a friend over here has had them on his for 15 years.
Victor
Thats interesting, didn't realise they had different air cleaners. Mines on a chassis stand under bonnet and battery is under passenger seat. I think most of the late Series 2a 6cyl had that config over here. Is the grey paint a NADA thing? Whats left of the paint on my block (only one layer and looks very old so assuming original) has more of a green tint to it, so I'm assuming UK spec were painted the same green that the 4cyl were done in.
Meant to ask before - did your block have this hole at the back, and was there an "ear" on the head that blanks the hole with an o-ring recess in it? Mine did, but didn't show in the LR workshop manual (got an old one from early 70's) and didn't have an o-ring in the kit. I had a selection pack of o-rings in stock so chose one that fits, but when I'm doing it properly, I want to be sure to have right seal. Without reference to it anywhere its hard to know what to look for...
Sorry Victor, these pics might make that vague question make more sense.
Quote from: Wittsend on Dec 24, 2023, 10:14 PM:teacher
Don't forget, the 6-pot engine went into thousands of Rover P4 saloon cars :gold-cup
There are several clubs/forums for the Rover P4s and they can help with engine parts/suppliers.
I think in the Series 2 Land Rover world 6-pots have a bit of a bad name because most S2 owners deal with 4-pot engines ???
:RHD
Good thinking. I've had a look through some of the postings on those, and there's a lot of good info. Think there was only a few bits modified for landrovers. I got details of a company in Australia (JP pistons) for piston supply from the P4 forum, but have been surprised at difficulty of finding parts for these engines and the cost - nearly £1k inc VAT for a set of pistons for instance. Still on the p4 forum there's talk of these lasting 200k so I guess in the scheme of things it'll be 20 years before I've got to do it again!
Final spam today. The very beginning of the resto was getting it started to get it into workshop, so started by freeing off the starter, cleaning up com and rebrushing. Heres one of it on the lathe before a com cut.
Will try and post progress here once I get cracking (mid January all being well). Just reply STOP if it gets too boring!!
First move under its own steam (literally with a leaky core plug) here: https://youtu.be/PgzvXJO2vrs
Hi and welcome to the forum! Nice to see another 6-pot owner join the club.
Me and my Dad have been doing a rolling restoration of his 1968 2A Station Wagon 6-pot since he bought it in 2020. It's a nice runner so we haven't had to do anything significant to the engine besides adjusting the valves, replacing several gaskets and oil pipes. We run it on premium unleaded and pop some Redex lead additive and some 2 stroke oil into the tank which seems to work nicely. We've also recently replaced the old points for electronic ignition from Powerspark - very simple to do and seems to have provided a slight improvement.
It's also fitted with Rocky Mountain doortops - which we HIGHLY recommend. My 1968 2A 88" also has them fitted. Such an improvement over the original design.
It's also on parabolic springs but I'm unsure of the brand - fitted by a previous owner. It sits very well and the ride is rather comfortable!
If there's anything else I can help with, just shout. I'm far from an expert on the 2.6 engines but I'm rather fond of them. When looked after and serviced regularly (valve clearances and oil changes), they work well.
Tom
Hi Rory
That hole you have circled in bright green in your pics is the oil return hole from the head to the oil pan.
Rover only had the one hole designed into that motor (originally a 4 cylinder) the 6 was copied from that years later.
It is a rubber O-ring seal, the one I used came with the head gasket kit and I'm sorry I have no clue how thick its supposed to be. I do not remember that it sat in any kind of recess.
I made up two fake studs to make sure the head got lowered down absolutely straight when it got installed, once down I installed a couple of head bolts and removed the studs.
Supposedly having only the one oil return hole (at the rear) caused smoke on the overrun when going down steep long hills as the valve cover area would fill with oil that could not flow uphill to get back to the sump.
If you look at the front end the water pump to head also uses a O-ring seal.
My battery is also under the seat a slightly different size (original) battery tray was however factory installed in the engine bay as well.
This engine was grey when I got it unmolested. My 62 also had a grey block and I know that was also original since my dad had the 62 since 1964. I think the grey should be just a touch darker.
I am unsure when landrover switched to light green blocks on the 4 cylinders or the 6 cylinders.
All 811 NADA's came to north America and were based on 1967 model year trucks hence the lights in the centre of the grill on my 69.
Victor
Welcome, nice to see another six pot owner. I remember your vehicle being for sale as someone asked if it was ex southern electric, I said no as they didn't operate in Scotland!
I see you asked about parabolics, be aware there are some excellent standard spec springs out there and parabolics often make the vehicle looked "jacked" in an odd way.
Looking forward to your progress. Here is my 69 six cylinder 1-Ton.
Quote from: 22900013A on Dec 25, 2023, 09:16 AMWelcome, nice to see another six pot owner. I remember your vehicle being for sale as someone asked if it was ex southern electric, I said no as they didn't operate in Scotland!
I see you asked about parabolics, be aware there are some excellent standard spec springs out there and parabolics often make the vehicle looked "jacked" in an odd way.
Looking forward to your progress. Here is my 69 six cylinder 1-Ton.
That looks very smart! Nice to see it in use, not many 1 tonnes about. I love the 1-Ton wheels but think the price of them will keep them further down my list!
I bought mine off a lad called Terry Kemp who had it up on Facebook, he's a local magpie for Landies. Mine was registered new in Aberdeen and has spent its last 40 years at least within 15 miles of me - first in Ardross at an engineering firm, then up on a croft out at Croick. I'm hoping to get in touch with PO's eventually.
Quote from: island dormy on Dec 25, 2023, 12:14 AMHi Rory
That hole you have circled in bright green in your pics is the oil return hole from the head to the oil pan.
Rover only had the one hole designed into that motor (originally a 4 cylinder) the 6 was copied from that years later.
It is a rubber O-ring seal, the one I used came with the head gasket kit and I'm sorry I have no clue how thick its supposed to be. I do not remember that it sat in any kind of recess.
I made up two fake studs to make sure the head got lowered down absolutely straight when it got installed, once down I installed a couple of head bolts and removed the studs.
Supposedly having only the one oil return hole (at the rear) caused smoke on the overrun when going down steep long hills as the valve cover area would fill with oil that could not flow uphill to get back to the sump.
If you look at the front end the water pump to head also uses a O-ring seal.
My battery is also under the seat a slightly different size (original) battery tray was however factory installed in the engine bay as well.
This engine was grey when I got it unmolested. My 62 also had a grey block and I know that was also original since my dad had the 62 since 1964. I think the grey should be just a touch darker.
I am unsure when landrover switched to light green blocks on the 4 cylinders or the 6 cylinders.
All 811 NADA's came to north America and were based on 1967 model year trucks hence the lights in the centre of the grill on my 69.
Victor
Thats interesting about the oil drain hole. On this one the head has the o ring recess, but the centre of the hole is blind. Wonder if it would be worth me drilling out to avoid the issue you mentioned...
Quote from: Porkscratching on Dec 24, 2023, 08:01 PM.....I'd be inclined myself to keep the body and paint just as it is!...
Save the removal of someone's quest to walk up the vertical panels, me too. Looks great. Leave as.
Quote from: Bloke on Dec 24, 2023, 11:25 PMHi and welcome to the forum! Nice to see another 6-pot owner join the club.
Me and my Dad have been doing a rolling restoration of his 1968 2A Station Wagon 6-pot since he bought it in 2020. It's a nice runner so we haven't had to do anything significant to the engine besides adjusting the valves, replacing several gaskets and oil pipes. We run it on premium unleaded and pop some Redex lead additive and some 2 stroke oil into the tank which seems to work nicely. We've also recently replaced the old points for electronic ignition from Powerspark - very simple to do and seems to have provided a slight improvement.
It's also fitted with Rocky Mountain doortops - which we HIGHLY recommend. My 1968 2A 88" also has them fitted. Such an improvement over the original design.
It's also on parabolic springs but I'm unsure of the brand - fitted by a previous owner. It sits very well and the ride is rather comfortable!
If there's anything else I can help with, just shout. I'm far from an expert on the 2.6 engines but I'm rather fond of them. When looked after and serviced regularly (valve clearances and oil changes), they work well.
Tom
Thats looking good, looking like you've done a lot of work there. Nice to have the feedback on the Rocky Mountain door tops and the parabolics. Looking to get the cab as weathertight as possible and make the transition from my air suspended Disco 3 a little less of a shock so the most compliant ride available is what we're aiming at.
What sort of intervals are you doing valve clearances at? Also what kind of MPG do you see on average (can't see an O/D lever in there?)
Quote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Dec 25, 2023, 10:10 AMQuote from: Porkscratching on Dec 24, 2023, 08:01 PM.....I'd be inclined myself to keep the body and paint just as it is!...
Save the removal of someone's quest to walk up the vertical panels, me too. Looks great. Leave as.
A good friend with a Series 2a 88 said the same thing - leave it as is. The big dents in the o/s/f wing bug me and the rust on the tailgate frame...my concern is if I repair those, it will be hard to stop! The doors and rest of the panels aren't to bad, just a couple of little frame repairs to make on the lower doors and a bit on lower a pillars.
Out of interest is the air vent grille on o/s/f wing normal on a very late 2a/6 cylinder thingor is that an addition/changed wing do you think?
A few moments of Land Rover peace while the ham, beans and potatoes are in the oven and the family's watching National Lampoon ...
I also like the look of yours. A tailgate and catflap would be nice to have.
My six (in the heavy Dormobile) doesn't accelerate the vehicle quickly but what's nice is that you don't have to downshift it up a hill. It just keeps chugging. I guess I don't really need 1st gear except on really steep hills or with a heavy trailer.
I have rebuilt the engine except for a rebore/pistons though this is due. The prices you found for spares are what's to be expected. Take better care of it than the previous owners and it'll not have to be rebuilt ever again.
Especially oil changes. I found my filter housing lacked a spring that my S3 sixpot had, which presses the paper filter element home onto an internal seal and separates the "in" and "out" flows. Maybe my previous owner lost it? I found an appropriate spring and modified my 2A to be like the 3 I had had.
Take care of the head as these can crack. I presume it's caused by overheating? Mine was cracked when I got it. Avoid a lean fuel mixture and retarded timing (or too advanced / pinking). In my experience the valve seats are hardened but the exhaust valves can take a battering and so I use a lead replacement. Also take care of the exhaust manifold as these are hard to find and expensive.
An "H" suffix, do you have the all-synchro gearbox (very short throw 1st gear selection)?
In 2020 I put my refueling records into a spreadsheet and came up with 15.9MPG Imperial over 25330 miles in 12.2 years. The type and conditions of driving was very variable. Little fixes like replacing the spark wires and plugs on time or the setting of the fuel float level in the carb (Stromberg on mine), or the bigger fix of a new timing chain and tensioner make a big difference in fuel economy and power. On long journeys I can average 18, short trips in the cold it can be 12 or worse. Cardboard over the grille helps it run better in the cold.
I check the valve clearance about every oil change. You get fast at it. Keep cork seals and Hylomar in stock. I also check the ignition timing at least twice a year.
It burns oil that comes by the inlet valve seals (especially on descents with engine braking when the oil gathers at the front of the engine/ #1 cylinder). They all do that, even the Rover cars. Well-adjusted valve clearance or using the foot brake rather than a low gear on descents can reduce this. But I also burn oil from my smooth bores: about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
Yes my European/British block /normal compression 2.6L was green (grey inside). Not the same as the 2.25 color though.
OK now back to Christmas with the Griswolds!
Jeremy
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 25, 2023, 09:41 AMQuote from: 22900013A on Dec 25, 2023, 09:16 AMWelcome, nice to see another six pot owner. I remember your vehicle being for sale as someone asked if it was ex southern electric, I said no as they didn't operate in Scotland!
I see you asked about parabolics, be aware there are some excellent standard spec springs out there and parabolics often make the vehicle looked "jacked" in an odd way.
Looking forward to your progress. Here is my 69 six cylinder 1-Ton.
That looks very smart! Nice to see it in use, not many 1 tonnes about. I love the 1-Ton wheels but think the price of them will keep them further down my list!
I bought mine off a lad called Terry Kemp who had it up on Facebook, he's a local magpie for Landies. Mine was registered new in Aberdeen and has spent its last 40 years at least within 15 miles of me - first in Ardross at an engineering firm, then up on a croft out at Croick. I'm hoping to get in touch with PO's eventually.
To be honest prices have dropped significantly since the 8x16 rims appeared from Nakatenga.
Quote from: jkhackney on Dec 25, 2023, 03:07 PMA few moments of Land Rover peace while the ham, beans and potatoes are in the oven and the family's watching National Lampoon ...
I also like the look of yours. A tailgate and catflap would be nice to have.
My six (in the heavy Dormobile) doesn't accelerate the vehicle quickly but what's nice is that you don't have to downshift it up a hill. It just keeps chugging. I guess I don't really need 1st gear except on really steep hills or with a heavy trailer.
I have rebuilt the engine except for a rebore/pistons though this is due. The prices you found for spares are what's to be expected. Take better care of it than the previous owners and it'll not have to be rebuilt ever again.
Especially oil changes. I found my filter housing lacked a spring that my S3 sixpot had, which presses the paper filter element home onto an internal seal and separates the "in" and "out" flows. Maybe my previous owner lost it? I found an appropriate spring and modified my 2A to be like the 3 I had had.
Take care of the head as these can crack. I presume it's caused by overheating? Mine was cracked when I got it. Avoid a lean fuel mixture and retarded timing (or too advanced / pinking). In my experience the valve seats are hardened but the exhaust valves can take a battering and so I use a lead replacement. Also take care of the exhaust manifold as these are hard to find and expensive.
An "H" suffix, do you have the all-synchro gearbox (very short throw 1st gear selection)?
In 2020 I put my refueling records into a spreadsheet and came up with 15.9MPG Imperial over 25330 miles in 12.2 years. The type and conditions of driving was very variable. Little fixes like replacing the spark wires and plugs on time or the setting of the fuel float level in the carb (Stromberg on mine), or the bigger fix of a new timing chain and tensioner make a big difference in fuel economy and power. On long journeys I can average 18, short trips in the cold it can be 12 or worse. Cardboard over the grille helps it run better in the cold.
I check the valve clearance about every oil change. You get fast at it. Keep cork seals and Hylomar in stock. I also check the ignition timing at least twice a year.
It burns oil that comes by the inlet valve seals (especially on descents with engine braking when the oil gathers at the front of the engine/ #1 cylinder). They all do that, even the Rover cars. Well-adjusted valve clearance or using the foot brake rather than a low gear on descents can reduce this. But I also burn oil from my smooth bores: about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
Yes my European/British block /normal compression 2.6L was green (grey inside). Not the same as the 2.25 color though.
OK now back to Christmas with the Griswolds!
Jeremy
Will make sure I check the spring - I did change the oil filter when I got it unseized and I'm fairly sure there was one in there.
Thats some good data with regards fuel economy - lots of miles there, and what I was hoping for. Hoping to get near 20 on longer flat runs with the O/D and expecting 12 ish when fully loaded on short runs. Most runs in the highlands are 30 miles plus though.
Good to know what to expect with normal oil consumption levels too.
Will plan to check the valve clearances every 3000 miles then (seem to think that's what the book recommends). That'll be every 3 months ish which isn't too bad. Will change exhaust manifold studs out in head to ensure its not going to be too much of a pain.
I think I have the all synchro gearbox. I've only had it very slowly into 2nd on the road as im fairly sure it will snap in half if I hit anything much bigger than a pebble at those speeds on the current chassis). It was 15 years since I drove a series 2 so can't really remember the length of throw accurately enough to compare it to this one. From what I read it should be all synchro - can check out the g/box serial number when it comes out, and I'll be replacing all bearings and seals plus any worn parts as a matter of course in there anyway so will find out then regardless.
Quote from: 22900013A on Dec 25, 2023, 03:44 PMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 25, 2023, 09:41 AMQuote from: 22900013A on Dec 25, 2023, 09:16 AMWelcome, nice to see another six pot owner. I remember your vehicle being for sale as someone asked if it was ex southern electric, I said no as they didn't operate in Scotland!
I see you asked about parabolics, be aware there are some excellent standard spec springs out there and parabolics often make the vehicle looked "jacked" in an odd way.
Looking forward to your progress. Here is my 69 six cylinder 1-Ton.
That looks very smart! Nice to see it in use, not many 1 tonnes about. I love the 1-Ton wheels but think the price of them will keep them further down my list!
I bought mine off a lad called Terry Kemp who had it up on Facebook, he's a local magpie for Landies. Mine was registered new in Aberdeen and has spent its last 40 years at least within 15 miles of me - first in Ardross at an engineering firm, then up on a croft out at Croick. I'm hoping to get in touch with PO's eventually.
To be honest prices have dropped significantly since the 8x16 rims appeared from Nakatenga.
Never even heard of Nakatenga before. Just checked them out, they look great and price is good. Much appreciated. Effect on fuel economy? At 12000 miles a year I can take a couple of MPG either way but more might limit them to winter only/offroad use.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 25, 2023, 07:34 PMQuote from: 22900013A on Dec 25, 2023, 03:44 PMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 25, 2023, 09:41 AMQuote from: 22900013A on Dec 25, 2023, 09:16 AMWelcome, nice to see another six pot owner. I remember your vehicle being for sale as someone asked if it was ex southern electric, I said no as they didn't operate in Scotland!
I see you asked about parabolics, be aware there are some excellent standard spec springs out there and parabolics often make the vehicle looked "jacked" in an odd way.
Looking forward to your progress. Here is my 69 six cylinder 1-Ton.
That looks very smart! Nice to see it in use, not many 1 tonnes about. I love the 1-Ton wheels but think the price of them will keep them further down my list!
I bought mine off a lad called Terry Kemp who had it up on Facebook, he's a local magpie for Landies. Mine was registered new in Aberdeen and has spent its last 40 years at least within 15 miles of me - first in Ardross at an engineering firm, then up on a croft out at Croick. I'm hoping to get in touch with PO's eventually.
To be honest prices have dropped significantly since the 8x16 rims appeared from Nakatenga.
Never even heard of Nakatenga before. Just checked them out, they look great and price is good. Much appreciated. Effect on fuel economy? At 12000 miles a year I can take a couple of MPG either way but more might limit them to winter only/offroad use.
I very much doubt wheel width would have any impact on fuel economy. Tyre pattern and width would.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 25, 2023, 10:28 AM.... leave it as is. The big dents in the o/s/f wing bug me and the rust on the tailgate frame...my concern is if I repair those, it will be hard to stop! The doors and rest of the panels aren'
For me, rust on the tailgate is part of its 'thing'. Untouched 109s are getting rare, don't mess this one. If you touch it, you'll be forced to do the rest. Dinks in wings, leave as, or take the worst out, such that repairs look 'able barnyard' over 'perfect panel-beater' and have the inner confidence to stop right there.
Make it top-notch underneath, eat your dinner off it, anywhere not seen. Feel free to disagree, yet for me a minter Series has its sartorial equiv. in the bloke covered in brand names - smacks of... well... you can try too hard.
Quote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Dec 26, 2023, 10:03 AMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 25, 2023, 10:28 AM.... leave it as is. The big dents in the o/s/f wing bug me and the rust on the tailgate frame...my concern is if I repair those, it will be hard to stop! The doors and rest of the panels aren'
For me, rust on the tailgate is part of its 'thing'. Untouched 109s are getting rare, don't mess this one. If you touch it, you'll be forced to do the rest. Dinks in wings, leave as, or take the worst out, such that repairs look 'able barnyard' over 'perfect panel-beater' and have the inner confidence to stop right there.
Make it top-notch underneath, eat your dinner off it, anywhere not seen. Feel free to disagree, yet for me a minter Series has its sartorial equiv. in the bloke covered in brand names - smacks of... well... you can try too hard.
I'd like to have the ability to stop myself getting the panel beating hammer and DA out...we'll see! I think you're right, if its super clean underneath, in the cab and inner tub and under bonnet, then it will look right with weathered exterior. Original paint is making me veer towards keeping it. Need to decide how far to go in terms of replacing lights/trims/re-galving cappings etc. Will be taking new chassis to black as I'm not a fan of seeing the galv coating, and the state my 3 year old galv Ifor trailer is in after regular use for just three years makes me think the galv won't be in good shape for that long on these super salty roads.
End result needs to be respectable as it'll be the daily for our business, and we're lining up an old sign writer to hand paint the livery onto it.
Very nice, in my opinion the 109" full hardtop is the ultimate Land Rover for functionality. I agree with others about keeping the vehicles scars, it's what makes the vehicle unique, although I would straighten out that bumper, the rest I would leave well alone.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Quote from: Old80 on Dec 26, 2023, 12:55 PMVery nice, in my opinion the 109" full hardtop is the ultimate Land Rover for functionality. I agree with others about keeping the vehicles scars, it's what makes the vehicle unique, although I would straighten out that bumper, the rest I would leave well alone.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Thanks for that - Thats actually one of the bits i'm looking for s/h as I think I'll struggle to get the crease out of it. Does anyone have a straight s/h bumper that they'd sell?
Quote from: Old80 on Dec 26, 2023, 12:55 PM...my opinion the 109" full hardtop is the ultimate Land Rover for functionality....
Agreed. I think I'm correct in saying more 109s were made, and for just that reason. Somehow, because few of today's owners, 'own to use', 88s are the survivors. They get called 'a workhorse' and 'heavy-duty'. None of which you'd say if used.
Bumper: Yes, if not barnyardable, it must go, few would not draw the line at crash-damage. Have the courage to leave be. Super clean underneath is the way, you can fake new, you can't fake 'real'.
Quote from: jkhackney on Dec 25, 2023, 03:07 PMIt burns oil that comes by the inlet valve seals (especially on descents with engine braking when the oil gathers at the front of the engine/ #1 cylinder). They all do that, even the Rover cars. Well-adjusted valve clearance or using the foot brake rather than a low gear on descents can reduce this. But I also burn oil from my smooth bores: about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
When I last had the head off my 2.6 I considered drilling or milling a passage in the web in the head to allow oil to drain down the pushrod tubes. Partly due to the oil consumption but also because I tend to do the valve clearances with it parked on my drive and the oil goes everywhere when I remove the rocker cover. Earlier IOE 6 cylinder engines used the pushrod tubes as a drain before they added the return gallery in the block casting (all LR engines use the later casting). The sensible side of me wants to drill the hole but the other side of me says Rover changed it for a reason (and put up with the oil burning issues?)
Quote from: Calum on Dec 26, 2023, 06:56 PMQuote from: jkhackney on Dec 25, 2023, 03:07 PMIt burns oil that comes by the inlet valve seals (especially on descents with engine braking when the oil gathers at the front of the engine/ #1 cylinder). They all do that, even the Rover cars. Well-adjusted valve clearance or using the foot brake rather than a low gear on descents can reduce this. But I also burn oil from my smooth bores: about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
When I last had the head off my 2.6 I considered drilling or milling a passage in the web in the head to allow oil to drain down the pushrod tubes. Partly due to the oil consumption but also because I tend to do the valve clearances with it parked on my drive and the oil goes everywhere when I remove the rocker cover. Earlier IOE 6 cylinder engines used the pushrod tubes as a drain before they added the return gallery in the block casting (all LR engines use the later casting). The sensible side of me wants to drill the hole but the other side of me says Rover changed it for a reason (and put up with the oil burning issues?)
That's interesting Callum, so that's the hole in the centre of the o ring. TBH it's a strange one, the block is set up to take a drain, drilled for draining oil but the head isn't, and doesn't seem equipped to shift the oil fast enough. I seem to remember something about type a and type b heads on the p4 forum. Type a heads had no web and no drain at the rear so all oil drained down pushrod tubes. Type B head had web down middle to keep oil from draining down pushrod tubes and a drain at the rear.
On my 6 i can't recall if it has the web (stops oil going down pushrod tubes) but it definitely has an undrilled rear drain on the head, despite the block having provision for it...so assuming no web, as the oil must drain down the tubes.
I've been offered a rover 110 engine which I'm tempted to accept as it has a type b head with twin SUs, not to run as a daily but to see what difference the extra 20 or so BHP makes and keep as a spare for if my head is requiring maintenance in future
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 26, 2023, 10:09 PMQuote from: Calum on Dec 26, 2023, 06:56 PMQuote from: jkhackney on Dec 25, 2023, 03:07 PMIt burns oil that comes by the inlet valve seals (especially on descents with engine braking when the oil gathers at the front of the engine/ #1 cylinder). They all do that, even the Rover cars. Well-adjusted valve clearance or using the foot brake rather than a low gear on descents can reduce this. But I also burn oil from my smooth bores: about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
When I last had the head off my 2.6 I considered drilling or milling a passage in the web in the head to allow oil to drain down the pushrod tubes. Partly due to the oil consumption but also because I tend to do the valve clearances with it parked on my drive and the oil goes everywhere when I remove the rocker cover. Earlier IOE 6 cylinder engines used the pushrod tubes as a drain before they added the return gallery in the block casting (all LR engines use the later casting). The sensible side of me wants to drill the hole but the other side of me says Rover changed it for a reason (and put up with the oil burning issues?)
That's interesting Callum, so that's the hole in the centre of the o ring. TBH it's a strange one, the block is set up to take a drain, drilled for draining oil but the head isn't, and doesn't seem equipped to shift the oil fast enough. I seem to remember something about type a and type b heads on the p4 forum. Type a heads had no web and no drain at the rear so all oil drained down pushrod tubes. Type B head had web down middle to keep oil from draining down pushrod tubes and a drain at the rear.
On my 6 i can't recall if it has the web (stops oil going down pushrod tubes) but it definitely has an undrilled rear drain on the head, despite the block having provision for it...so assuming no web, as the oil must drain down the tubes.
I've been offered a rover 110 engine which I'm tempted to accept as it has a type b head with twin SUs, not to run as a daily but to see what difference the extra 20 or so BHP makes and keep as a spare for if my head is requiring maintenance in future
I should have clarified - my 2.6 has a weslake head (type B) fitted, which is designed to drain through the gallery at the back of the head. The normal euro-spec LR engine has what was the Rover 95 head and is designed to drain through the push rod galleries. I've no idea what caused them to change their minds. I would think any way to aid 'spent' oil getting back to the sump would be a good thing.
If your 110 engine has twin carbs it probably isn't a 110 engine (or at least a weslake head). The only 6 cylinder engines to have twin carbs as standard were the 105S and the earlier 75 (2.1 litre I think?)
Quote from: Calum on Dec 26, 2023, 11:07 PMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 26, 2023, 10:09 PMQuote from: Calum on Dec 26, 2023, 06:56 PMQuote from: jkhackney on Dec 25, 2023, 03:07 PMIt burns oil that comes by the inlet valve seals (especially on descents with engine braking when the oil gathers at the front of the engine/ #1 cylinder). They all do that, even the Rover cars. Well-adjusted valve clearance or using the foot brake rather than a low gear on descents can reduce this. But I also burn oil from my smooth bores: about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.
When I last had the head off my 2.6 I considered drilling or milling a passage in the web in the head to allow oil to drain down the pushrod tubes. Partly due to the oil consumption but also because I tend to do the valve clearances with it parked on my drive and the oil goes everywhere when I remove the rocker cover. Earlier IOE 6 cylinder engines used the pushrod tubes as a drain before they added the return gallery in the block casting (all LR engines use the later casting). The sensible side of me wants to drill the hole but the other side of me says Rover changed it for a reason (and put up with the oil burning issues?)
That's interesting Callum, so that's the hole in the centre of the o ring. TBH it's a strange one, the block is set up to take a drain, drilled for draining oil but the head isn't, and doesn't seem equipped to shift the oil fast enough. I seem to remember something about type a and type b heads on the p4 forum. Type a heads had no web and no drain at the rear so all oil drained down pushrod tubes. Type B head had web down middle to keep oil from draining down pushrod tubes and a drain at the rear.
On my 6 i can't recall if it has the web (stops oil going down pushrod tubes) but it definitely has an undrilled rear drain on the head, despite the block having provision for it...so assuming no web, as the oil must drain down the tubes.
I've been offered a rover 110 engine which I'm tempted to accept as it has a type b head with twin SUs, not to run as a daily but to see what difference the extra 20 or so BHP makes and keep as a spare for if my head is requiring maintenance in future
I should have clarified - my 2.6 has a weslake head (type B) fitted, which is designed to drain through the gallery at the back of the head. The normal euro-spec LR engine has what was the Rover 95 head and is designed to drain through the push rod galleries. I've no idea what caused them to change their minds. I would think any way to aid 'spent' oil getting back to the sump would be a good thing.
If your 110 engine has twin carbs it probably isn't a 110 engine (or at least a weslake head). The only 6 cylinder engines to have twin carbs as standard were the 105S and the earlier 75 (2.1 litre I think?)
Ah, i didn't realise. Owner of the engine who i've known a few years through village life and has a P4 himself bought it as a spare from Dounreay, described it as a 110 but he got it home and found its seized. So he's punting it on for £200 complete with all ancillaries. It sort of seems worth it for the parts, looks pretty good externally, lots of dust from sitting rather than covered in corrosion, so thought i might be able to harvest spare internals too.
If it's from a P4 110 it could have a Weslake cylinder head. Very desirable.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 24, 2023, 07:51 PMFew pics of it as it stands
I wasn't aware the lower tailgate had an iron section in it to rust as yours does. My '61 truck cab's ali one had dented and split in two through repeated contact with with tow ball and, I suspect because I did it myself a few times, being walked on when open and weakened. Is the iron a previous owner repair?
I dont know very much about them when it comes to this level of detail, but when I picked it up, i thought this didn't look factory. It looks like it has had a ball hitch into it a few times and then someone has added a section of folded angle and sealed it up. I don't reckon it should be pop rivets either - will do a bit more research on that come reassembly.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 27, 2023, 11:12 AMI dont know very much about them when it comes to this level of detail, but when I picked it up, i thought this didn't look factory. It looks like it has had a ball hitch into it a few times and then someone has added a section of folded angle and sealed it up. I don't reckon it should be pop rivets either - will do a bit more research on that come reassembly.
Gotcha. I didn't see the pop rivets in the original picture you posted. I imagine there's a busted ali piece beneath it. :cheers
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 27, 2023, 08:01 AMIf it's from a P4 110 it could have a Weslake cylinder head. Very desirable.
If I don't end up using it myself but someone else on here down south does I can chuck it in the back of the Disco next time were heading down to England, we go fairly frequently back to Lincolnshire and Yorkshire.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 24, 2023, 09:40 PMThat sounds good, I'll look that up. Anybody up my way in the club?
I'm up near Lybster, but only have a bitsa 1960 Series 2 currently running a 200di, not a six pot
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 27, 2023, 08:01 AMIf it's from a P4 110 it could have a Weslake cylinder head. Very desirable.
If it has twin carbs it's unlikely, although the Weslake is the only head with a separate inlet manifold so any custom made manifolds could be fitted if desired (although I've only ever seen one which had custom manifolds and it was a period race car on triple SUs)
Quote from: Hairyvike on Dec 28, 2023, 01:40 AMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 24, 2023, 09:40 PMThat sounds good, I'll look that up. Anybody up my way in the club?
I'm up near Lybster, but only have a bitsa 1960 Series 2 currently running a 200di, not a six pot
Nice one! Do you get down our way much? (Ardgay near Tain). Just wondering if I've seen yours about
I rarely go further than Wick in the old girl....I have a '96 Defender for longer journeys down towards civilisation!
As the Series 2 has the original running gear she doesn't like to go above 40mph (I did take her up to 60 once, but she blew off a heater hose just to show her annoyance), which makes long journeys feel much longer.... :RHD
Quote from: Hairyvike on Dec 29, 2023, 02:03 AMI rarely go further than Wick in the old girl....I have a '96 Defender for longer journeys down towards civilisation!
As the Series 2 has the original running gear she doesn't like to go above 40mph (I did take her up to 60 once, but she blew off a heater hose just to show her annoyance), which makes long journeys feel much longer.... :RHD
Sounds like a sensible solution, running a series as a daily may be something that doesnt last long. Hoping the 6 cyl and the O/D will make it a bit more doable though...
Again, probably looking in wrong places, but trying to order up a set of rocky mountain door tops. Anyone know where to get them from in UK currently? Google didn't bring up anything useful.
If they are still available, I think you have to go to the manufacturer these days and deal direct.
Quote from: diffwhine on Dec 30, 2023, 08:28 AMIf they are still available, I think you have to go to the manufacturer these days and deal direct.
Thanks, their website still on the go on a .com so will try the contact page there. Can't see a lot of alternative for a decent ally twin opening glass door top.
Also has anyone tried a spring refurb company? With what results?
Still torn on para vs stock springs. This will get daily use with between 150-500kg load in the rear tub, and towing a trailer every couple of weeks around 2 tonnes.
My stock springs are saggy and seized. I could strip and overhaul to free up, but cant reprofile myself.
I think that Jones Springs do a refurb programme - or at least they used to do so.
Quote from: diffwhine on Dec 30, 2023, 11:25 AMI think that Jones Springs do a refurb programme - or at least they used to do so.
Thanks for that, I pinged them an email just now.
Finally got her inside for the first time in my ownership today. More pics and questions to follow...
I had a full set of springs for an 88" refurbed by Jones Springs many years ago and they came back like new and good people to deal with but as Diffwine says don't know if they are still providing this service.
So questions so far in no particular order:
Hole in rear n/s wing. Seems to be a pin hole in ally. Is this normal for its age? Can tig it up but wonder what caused it.
Are these the correct rear lenses for a late 2a? Are the cages OEM option
Is the vent supposed to be there in o/s wing or is it a mod/covering up a hole
O/D - I picked this up off a low mileage SWB series 3. Anything particularly to look out for?
Rivets pointed out in pic on capping - should these be pop rivets as they are should they be closed rivets
And some closeups of condition. Pretty crispy, and not sure if i dare pick it up on ramp with chassis as it is...
Hoping to save everything but the chassis and door tops. Will repair bulkhead and weld new sections of frame into lower doors...
Anyone got a set of narrow sills they would like to sell?
Hole in aluminium bodywork - quite normal - expect to find plenty more in an old commercial vehicle. Normal alloy corrosion. TIG is a good option, but you will find you are filling a bigger hole than you think.
Lights - look about right, but there was a lot of variation due to supplier changes and so on.
LH Wing vent - looks like a Series 3 wing to take an heater air intake.
Overdrive - can't tell without opening it up and inspecting.
Rivets - probably were pop rivets at that age. Propr dome rivets are expensive and cumbersome to fit in production.
The light guards were an optional extra.
Looks great!
Overdrive - you will need to either extend or shorten the gear lever bracket (I can't remember which way round it is, sorry) in order to fit the 2.6 gearbox.
I spotted these sills on eBay earlier today - might be of use? Sills (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145526000000?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D8af5a217f4d843469aa3e809aa0d15fd%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D145526000000%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DLand%2BRover&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Abcb94acb18c0a5125b88cffeffff50c8%7Cpageci%3A198783ff-a75e-11ee-a0d7-b644be45eba2%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage)
Tom
Quote from: Bloke on Dec 30, 2023, 09:56 PMLooks great!
Overdrive - you will need to either extend or shorten the gear lever bracket (I can't remember which way round it is, sorry) in order to fit the 2.6 gearbox.
I spotted these sills on eBay earlier today - might be of use? Sills (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145526000000?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D8af5a217f4d843469aa3e809aa0d15fd%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D145526000000%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DLand%2BRover&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Abcb94acb18c0a5125b88cffeffff50c8%7Cpageci%3A198783ff-a75e-11ee-a0d7-b644be45eba2%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage)
Tom
They look perfect, thanks for the link Tom
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 30, 2023, 08:32 PMThe light guards were an optional extra.
Good to know, I'll probably retain them. One less set of holes to deal with and handy with it being a working vehicle
Nipped out to workshop tonight (what a difference finally getting it inside makes!!) and pulled off thedoor tops, all the chequer plate and anything I can tell is definitely not original. Still trying to decide whether to keep to keep the patina whilst I can still see it as a whole.
Roof definitely original paint and not many marks, even buffed a soft shine just cleaning it tonight
Having it inside and cleaning it up it has 1 layer of primer and 1 layer of the same pastel green underneath it so had a respray at some point in the same colour. Only panel I can find any other colour (creamy yellow) is on the o/s/f wing... so that would explain the vent in that wing.
Parts list and sundries I know I'm needing at this stage (beyond the sills that I'll hopefully end up with from eBay) is:
Straight s/h o/s front wing (amazing if it had a nice old layer of pastel green)
S/h or n/o/s wing mirrors
Front light baskets (holes there but they are missing)
Cat flap handle (internal mechanism looks ok)
1 s/h original LR mudflap
Side fold down steps (mrs is 5ft 2 and it's a fair leap!)
Drivers seat frame
If anyone's got those bits I'd happily buy them from on here. Can pick up on the next trip down country or courier if it can't wait. I think I'll be 9-12month on this by the time I'm done.
The rest of the little bits I'll either source new or repair.
I'll try and stick a few up of it cleaned up without the chequer plate when I get in later
Few pics of it cleaned up a little with the bling removed. The first pleasant surprise that the bling wasnt hiding anything nasty.
Quote from: simonbav on Dec 27, 2023, 08:17 AMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 24, 2023, 07:51 PMFew pics of it as it stands
I wasn't aware the lower tailgate had an iron section in it to rust as yours does. My '61 truck cab's ali one had dented and split in two through repeated contact with with tow ball and, I suspect because I did it myself a few times, being walked on when open and weakened. Is the iron a previous owner repair?
Pulled the iron off and sure enough its been backed into a hitch or stood on once to often. Looks repairable though.
If by front light baskets you mean the bowl which fits in the wing go for plastic ones. They don't rust.
Sorry Alan, I was meaning the same type of cages/guards that the rear lights have. I was assuming that there must have been a matching set fitted at the front as there is 3mm holes in a square pattern around each front light assembly that looks like it would have taken a self tapper.
Like this? Mine are body colour.
I fitted them by putting stainless steel bolts through the wing with a locknut on the outside then I used stainless steel dome nuts to secure the guard to the bolts. Easy to undo as the locknuts hold the bolts in place. You can make them out in the photo.
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 31, 2023, 10:06 AMLike this? Mine are body colour.
I fitted them by putting stainless steel bolts through the wing with a locknut on the outside then I used stainless steel dome nuts to secure the guard to the bolts. Easy to undo as the locknuts hold the bolts in place. You can make them out in the photo.
That's the ones 👍 I'll look out for a set. Do you find they knock much out of the light output?
There you go... Unipart numbers, but you get the general idea.
Screenshot 2023-12-31 181239.jpg
Light output is unaffected. LED bulbs are fitted.
That's grand thanks for the part no's and feedback.
What LED bulbs did you go Alan? Have they given any trouble? Been in there a while for a bit of reliability feedback?
Also anyone got recommendations on chassis paint?
My new chassis has been outside 6 months which has knocked most of the shine of the galv. Was going to run over it with some mordant solution before applying thinned down raptor externally for a tough stone chip proof satin black layer, with Dinitrol MX internally.
I got the bulbs from Paul Goff. Now, every bulb is LED apart from the indicator warning lights as I can't find an LED bulb to fit and the ignition warning light as an LED bulb won't draw enough current to excite the alternator into charging unless there's a resistor in the circuit and it's not worth the faff.
The headlight bulbs are the modern bright white ones. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em and see and be seen.
The current drawn by all the LED bulbs is considerably less than conventional bulbs and is far less strain on wiring and switches.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 30, 2023, 11:01 PMStill trying to decide whether to keep to keep the patina whilst I can still see it as a whole.
Looks lovely, leave it 'real'. Harder to stop, take the trouble. The mindset that adds that bling is the same as rips off what we see now. He's the bloke that tries too hard. Leave be, make it mint underneath. Less.
That way it's 'the wreck that isn't', the 'precious one'. If ever you wish to sell, that'd be what the nothing-to-prove real money fights at Coy's to pay for.
Just be very careful what you touch, it won't take much to ruin.
I hate front light guards, which is why the first thing I did after buying Legless - see pic - was take them off.
The good news for you is that they are probably still lying around in one of my sheds.
I understand you may be coming down to Essex soon, so if you still need them, let me know at the time and I'll have a root around for them.
They won't cost you anything, as I'll be glad to get rid of them!
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 31, 2023, 10:06 AMLike this? Mine are body colour.
I fitted them by putting stainless steel bolts through the wing with a locknut on the outside then I used stainless steel dome nuts to secure the guard to the bolts. Easy to undo as the locknuts hold the bolts in place. You can make them out in the photo.
What did you do to prevent the stainless steel bolts reacting with the alloy of the wing?
Never thought about it. Just staircase steel penny washers and there's been no reaction as far as I can see and they've been there for decades.
Quote from: Exile on Jan 01, 2024, 06:09 PMI hate front light guards, which is why the first thing I did after buying Legless - see pic - was take them off.
The good news for you is that they are probably still lying around in one of my sheds.
I understand you may be coming down to Essex soon, so if you still need them, let me know at the time and I'll have a root around for them.
They won't cost you anything, as I'll be glad to get rid of them!
That's really kind, thankyou. I'm hung on the look of them, but from the age and fixings/fixing holes I'd say they were fitted new or not long after so think I'll stick with 'em.
I'll drop you a message a bit closer to the time
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 31, 2023, 11:10 PMI got the bulbs from Paul Goff. Now, every bulb is LED apart from the indicator warning lights as I can't find an LED bulb to fit and the ignition warning light as an LED bulb won't draw enough current to excite the alternator into charging unless there's a resistor in the circuit and it's not worth the faff.
The headlight bulbs are the modern bright white ones. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em and see and be seen.
The current drawn by all the LED bulbs is considerably less than conventional bulbs and is far less strain on wiring and switches.
That's grand. I'll look into those. I've used Philips and osram LEDs for some of my moderns, for sidelights/number plate lights/interior etc with good effect but not tried any main headlamps yet
Quote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Jan 01, 2024, 01:20 PMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Dec 30, 2023, 11:01 PMStill trying to decide whether to keep to keep the patina whilst I can still see it as a whole.
Looks lovely, leave it 'real'. Harder to stop, take the trouble. The mindset that adds that bling is the same as rips off what we see now. He's the bloke that tries too hard. Leave be, make it mint underneath. Less.
That way it's 'the wreck that isn't', the 'precious one'. If ever you wish to sell, that'd be what the nothing-to-prove real money fights at Coy's to pay for.
Just be very careful what you touch, it won't take much to ruin.
I think you're right. Patina for me means as straight as possible, but with no rot or holed corrosion. To that end I'll need to get good at replicating patina on the bulkhead and front panel once I've done fabricating and welding. I'm torn between just painting the bulkhead and front panel in body colour and leaving as is, or then sanding back through to primer in a few places and giving them a coat of satin clear coat so that they're protect but blend in better.
It's extremely difficult to replicate patina, easy to do it badly. Half-hour's misdirected effort and the whole thing will be gone for good.. The bulkhead will be difficult, careful.
A parrallel would be those fake pubs people like, those that pay for what you're trying to keep won't be seen dead in them.
Quote from: Exile on Jan 01, 2024, 06:09 PMI hate front light guards, which is why the first thing I did after buying Legless - see pic - was take them off.
I'll be glad to get rid of them!
I'm with you on that, just more fake bling - what do they do exactly? You're doing the world a favour if you bin 'em.
I love my lamp guards ... (https://www.series2club.co.uk/2023_new_forum/Smileys/wittsends/neener.gif)
Quote from: Wittsend on Jan 02, 2024, 11:51 AMI love my lamp guards ... (https://www.series2club.co.uk/2023_new_forum/Smileys/wittsends/neener.gif)
Likewise. Each to his own.
Quote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Jan 02, 2024, 11:31 AMIt's extremely difficult to replicate patina, easy to do it badly. Half-hour's misdirected effort and the whole thing will be gone for good.. The bulkhead will be difficult, careful.
A parrallel would be those fake pubs people like, those that pay for what you're trying to keep won't be seen dead in them.
Hmm maybe just better to paint the bulkhead and front panel repaired areas and blend into the orignal patina. Externally, thats just bottom of a posts and about a 2" section to the left of the o/s vent
Quote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Jan 02, 2024, 11:35 AMQuote from: Exile on Jan 01, 2024, 06:09 PMI hate front light guards, which is why the first thing I did after buying Legless - see pic - was take them off.
I'll be glad to get rid of them!
I'm with you on that, just more fake bling - what do they do exactly? You're doing the world a favour if you bin 'em.
I guess its a taste thing. Im not too fussed either way, but mine seems to have had them most of its life, they were an option that must have been fitted in 1971 when mine was made. If I don't fit them i'm left with a set of holes front and back.
It was a crofters workhorse most of its working life, and it will be working during my ownership on mountain windfarm rough roads and a lot of dirt tracks out to fish farms, so a bit of extra protection wont be a bad thing.
I don't think i'dd add them if it didn't have them on it most of its life.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Jan 02, 2024, 06:35 PM...I don't think i'dd add them if it didn't have them on it most of its life.
Yes, the choice is made for you. Might be tempted to put rivets in the holes all the same. Flat them down in vinegar for a few hours before putting them in. If you decide to keep the guards, it'll be hard to judge what not to touch. Suggest, don't disturb the fixings. eg: don't remove and put them back on, they'll never look well planted, or look lived-in again.
Quote from: haveyoubooked on Jan 02, 2024, 06:35 PMQuote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Jan 02, 2024, 11:35 AMQuote from: Exile on Jan 01, 2024, 06:09 PMI hate front light guards, which is why the first thing I did after buying Legless - see pic - was take them off.
I'll be glad to get rid of them!
I'm with you on that, just more fake bling - what do they do exactly? You're doing the world a favour if you bin 'em.
I guess its a taste thing. Im not too fussed either way, but mine seems to have had them most of its life, they were an option that must have been fitted in 1971 when mine was made. If I don't fit them i'm left with a set of holes front and back.
It was a crofters workhorse most of its working life, and it will be working during my ownership on mountain windfarm rough roads and a lot of dirt tracks out to fish farms, so a bit of extra protection wont be a bad thing.
I don't think i'dd add them if it didn't have them on it most of its life.
Lots of farmers fitted them as the cattle damaged the lights licking them.
Quote from: Serious Series on Jan 04, 2024, 09:58 AMQuote from: haveyoubooked on Jan 02, 2024, 06:35 PMQuote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Jan 02, 2024, 11:35 AMQuote from: Exile on Jan 01, 2024, 06:09 PMI hate front light guards, which is why the first thing I did after buying Legless - see pic - was take them off.
I'll be glad to get rid of them!
I'm with you on that, just more fake bling - what do they do exactly? You're doing the world a favour if you bin 'em.
I guess its a taste thing. Im not too fussed either way, but mine seems to have had them most of its life, they were an option that must have been fitted in 1971 when mine was made. If I don't fit them i'm left with a set of holes front and back.
It was a crofters workhorse most of its working life, and it will be working during my ownership on mountain windfarm rough roads and a lot of dirt tracks out to fish farms, so a bit of extra protection wont be a bad thing.
I don't think i'dd add them if it didn't have them on it most of its life.
Lots of farmers fitted them as the cattle damaged the lights licking them.
That makes sense. Back ones look like they have taken a few kicks but they should straighten out fine.