Thought I'd follow this up with a fresh post on the new forum.
Due to family issues, work issues and also having a lot of LRS2C Acting Chairman stuff on my plate, progress has been slower than expected. But - we are making progress.
The correct paint has been ordered from the LRSOC shop and we will get on with painting major components when that arrives.
The rocker cover, flywheel housing and several other bits are with club member JonB in Frome being either vapour blasted or powder coated. JonB has also had a good sump cleaned up and powder coated so the old dented wreck can now be scrapped. He has also donated a cracked but usable swan neck manifold, an early thermostat housing and some other useful bits.
Other members have donated other parts. We have a new set of Lodge spark plugs, an acorn type distributor cap and several other bits (I can't remember it all immediately, but will credit all in due course).
This weekend the block goes on a stand so it can be cleaned up and painted.
Photos to follow when we have some of the shiny stuff back from JonB.
Mark, it you are still short of stuff and anyone who is going to the rally can donate we can organise a relay
Peter
Thanks Peter,
I should have a clearer idea over the next few days. I think we now have all the main bits - its just small bits now that I've got to identify. Will put a shout out when I know more.
Planning a on day next week for the vapour blasting so I'll post some pics when it's all shiny 😇
Jon
Thanks Jon!
For now, a new list of bits I'm on the hunt for please:
- Oil Feed Banjo Bolts x2 p/n 504840
- Engine block mount bracket bolts x 4 p/n 255085
- Long thermostat housing bolts x 3 p/n 256209
- Inlet to exhaust manifold gasket x 1 p/n 247824
- Manifold fixings, studs and clamps
- Otter Switch – somebody must have a duff one!
- Distributor drive assembly and bush as per item numbers 21 to 26 in the image below.
- We are very short of general engine UNF fixings. If anybody has a drawer full of spares I can rob, please let me know. I have no front cover bolts, no water pump bolts, no sump bolts for example. OK for head bolts and rocker shaft bolts.
If anybody might be able to donate any paint, brushes or Owatrol Oil, I'd be grateful – anything to keep my costs down. I need black enamel / Smoothrite gloss paint, a small amount of bright red paint to detail the cutaway sections and some brushes – probably 1 1/12" for the block painting and some fine brushes for the detailing.
Thank you! :cheers
Should I just give you my spare engine 😇
I should be able to sort out most of the bolts for the timing cover, sump, thermostat, etc and have the banjo bolts, a duff otter switch and some manifold studs and fittings.
I'll go through the spares boxes tomorrow and make a list.
Jon
As ever - thank you!
DW,
I have:
2x banjo bolts
3x thermostat housing bolts
9x long and 3x shorter bolts for timing cover
22x sump bolts
2x manifold clamps
Otter switch
Drain plug for the sump
I have some studs, but need to identify them.
What are the plans on finish for the fasteners?
Jon
Thanks Jon,
This is great. I think it will cover off most things.
Finish... Anybody know what they would have been? I think sherardizing may be a bridge too far. I was going to zinc plate a lot of this sort of stuff, but appear to have an alien life form in my plating tank. I need to dump it and start again.
Sherardizing would be nice, but is it realistic or historically accurate?
I would think the fixings on an engine were just blacked originally.
There seems to be a fascination with sherardised fasteners in that once people know Land Rover used them in the construction of their vehicles they then think that every single fastener should be sherardised, even on bought-in components and I highly doubt this would be the case (especially on components that were assembled and then painted as a complete unit).
I would think only the unpainted fasteners used in assembly (mainly bodywork) were sherardised but this is from an experience of working in a practical industrial/manufacturing point of view rather than historic Rover knowledge.
I think one need to be conscious of the fact Rover did not paint engines after assembly , not as BMC did. So any fixings will be visible in there original state . I have never found what what the coating was. A lot had a sort of green hue which I believe was a proprietary coating which may have disappeared under BL for either cost or legislative reasons and ended up as zinc passivated
From stripping mine I believe the engine and 'box fasteners were parkerised, which is phospating and has a brownish finish. It was used heavily on classic Harley's, and it more expensive than other treatments.
DW, I'll wire wheel what I have here so they're ready for treatment. I've used a cold blacking kit which is easy, with good success, but I'm out of solution now. I guess the heads could be painted after assembly as they shouldn't be coming apart again?
I agree Jon,
At the end of the day, this is a working display unit which started life as a Rover exchange unit anyway. As long as it looks clean and smart, I don't see it being a problem just being cleaned up and then possibly given a coat of Owatrol oil.
Engine paint arrived this morning from the LRSOC shop. All credit to Russell - and impressive bit of packing!
Starting to make progress. Mainly removing paint from components which shouldn't have any paint on them. How somebody ended up getting paint on valve springs is anybody's guess. Even the Army rebuild workshops didn't get green inside the engine!
Next stage is to remove the green paint from the head to prepare it for going back to grey.
One more thing I'm on the hunt for. We have an early long time oil filter with a cutaway cover. I have most of the parts but I need a spring which goes on the big bolt that holds the filter cover to the housing. It holds the filter in place. I don;t have anything suitable. Anybody got something in a box of bits?
2023-07-13 13.20.30.jpg
DW, looking good. I've got a spare filter bolt and spring you can have, and also a used but intact 8 hole pump gasket that you mentioned previously
Jon
Thanks Jon.
We are getting there!
Following Diffwhines' pics, here's another step.
My friend Nick has a powder coating and blasting business in Bristol, and he kindly agreed to do the powder coating on the cutaway parts for free, and to give me the use of his equipment to bead-blast (needed to remove the thick paint that all the aluminium parts had on them), then vapour-blast the other parts. I've also had a lot of the steel carb parts yellow passivate plated, and donated some small parts so it now looks rather nice
I've added his card in the pic as a thank you, and if anyone wants parts doing in the south west, he'll sort it for you.
Jon
Wow...!
Obviously we must thank Nick and I will try to call him myself if I get a minute. Thanks Jon - cracking job. You've set the bar high! :cheers
One of the problems I have is that the oil filler stay bracket has nothing to bolt onto on the block, as that bit has been cutaway. As a result the plate was bent. I think I need to fabricate some sort of bracket to give the filler neck some strength.
I'm thinking of painting some areas of the interior a brighter colour to make them more visible.
Maybe paint crank webs black where they can be seen and con rods silver?
I also need to find a colour similar to the cream inside block colour to paint the inside of the crank case where its visible. Autorover1 did say that it was a special paint put on after casting to attract debris. Anybody got any suggestions as to what that colour might be? Its almost a magnolia / cream colour.
You are building it your choice
Peter
Dangerous Peter... I might be a closet Goth and do the whole thing in matt black...
For the avoidance of doubt, I am not a closet Goth...
Chalky
Quote from: diffwhine on Jul 13, 2023, 03:28 PMI also need to find a colour similar to the cream inside block colour to paint the inside of the crank case where its visible. Autorover1 did say that it was a special paint put on after casting to attract debris. Anybody got any suggestions as to what that colour might be? Its almost a magnolia / cream colour.
It was a sort of chalky cream colour , difficult to describe. Certainly looks a lot darker when subject to oil in a used vehicle
Similar to Limestone? I wonder if we just use that given that its readily available.
The fact that it's never going to see hot oil in service means I wouldn't be too concerned about getting the exact right paint. Limestone would probably be a good compromise for cost and availability.
I found an otter switch yesterday if you still need one.
Thanks Glen.
I agree - Limestone might be the best for highlighting things as well. Thanks for the offer on the Otter switch, but it seems as though JonB has found one.
Progress report...
Crankshaft cleaned, journals de-rusted and webs painted
Oil Pump and dipstick tube painted
Block cleaned
Valve and timing gear cleaned and coated with Owatrol so it looks like they are covered in clean oil.
Con rods painted
And of course as per the photo - the most important bit - polished the rebuild plate.
About to start on painting the block. the plan is to paint the exposed inside areas with Limestone and detail the cut areas with red paint. I've painted the crank black gloss and the two exposed con rods silver so they can be seen clearly against the limestone inside of the crank case. I'm not going to fit # 1 & 2 Pistons and conrods so the engine turns more freely. I'm also going to ditch the clutch. To use my daughter's delightful phrase - "it looks a bit manky". Just adds weight and no significant value as far as I can see. That said, if anybody gets a fit of enthusiasm to degrease and paint up (in black gloss) an old 3 prong 9" pressure assembly as a contribution, I'd happily fit it.
Now trying to see if I can save the original drain tap which seems to have been forced.
Looking good, will it be at the rally?
Paul
I don't think so - simply because of logistics of getting it there on its smart yellow trolley. We will have it at the NEC show in November and I'm sure plenty of future events.
I might be able to complete it before the rally at a push, but getting it up there may not be so simple. I'll have a think on that one
Maybe SuperCal will pop by to collect and drop it off, he did like his last road trip.
Paul
Managed to get some limestone paint to stick to the inside of the crankcase today.
We will start painting the outside of the block later this week and then start building up the block.
Probably one for JonB or AlexB. I'm after two crankshaft thrust washers for the 151 engine. I see they are different to later ones although I haven't measured or checked. Anything rattling around in anybody's scrap parts pile for an early engine?
The other thing I need is the grub screw that holds the distributor drive bush behind the oil filter housing.
2023-07-25 18.21.12.jpg
Limestone is a pretty close match to the crank case colour, so that little game worked. Bolted the crank in to keep it out of the way. I put the oil pump loosely in as well - damn thing keeps getting in the way and won't stand up on the bench. :thud
Main paint job starts soon!
I have some used standard size thrust washers from my series one 2 litre engine, not sure if they are the same? Got any part numbers or an image I can compare with?
Will you see the thrust washers once fitted? Just wondering if you really need them.
Craig.
Miles different
Mark, when I pull the sump off the scrap engine for Moogling next week I will take the crank out (it will make it easier for me to move, I will get the trust washers and bring them to the rally, if they fit, use them if not bin them
Peter
I'm not sure if they are that critical. It's just my feeling that the crank shouldn't have any perceptible fore/aft movement.
Craig - not sure, but it looks like pretty standard thrust washers go in the gaps. They were AWOL when Edryd got me the engine.
Thanks Peter - please do that and I'll see what can fit - even if we just fettle something to fill the gap.
We are getting there!
Calling all Series 2 engine specialists...
Just to confirm
Early 2.25 Litre engines (Series 2).
Am I correct in understanding that on those engines (with the two piece rocker shafts), there were no washers between the springs and the rockers as per later engines? The parts book suggests this is the case and there are none in the box of bits, so assume as such.
Thanking you all muchly
Work might stall for a short while due to family issues, but we've started painting and progress has been made this morning. Happy with the colour. Some touching in required and we've missed the odd bit, but we will get to it.
2023-07-29 13.52.48.jpg
2023-07-29 13.52.52.jpg
2023-07-29 13.52.55.jpg
Another bit of help or suggestion required...
2023-04-26 10.19.15.jpg
As you can see, there is no cam follower in number 7 valve, so the rocker isn't doing anything. I have an idea...
Why not track down another follower assembly and push rod. If I very carefully tack the guide into the bore, we could have a working tappet assembly there. If I were to cut a groove down one side of the guide and clean it up well, it should be possible to be able to see into the tappet and roller as it goes up and down.
Therefore... Anybody got two or three complete tappet, roller & guide assemblies I can play about with and guides to chop up? I'll also need one push rod.
If anybody can help, please let me know. Alternatively, if anybody has the above and wants to experiment for me, that would be a great help. I'm thinking of a groove cut down the side of the guide offset to the right hand side so people can see a tappet and roller working.
DW, I haven't got any bits, but you're correct about the rockers. The stand pieces are different for the middle and the ends so the washers aren't required.
Jon
Thanks Jon,
That confirms it - I just wanted to make sure. Now cleaning up threads and working out what else is missing.
To add to my want list:
3 x 3 1/4" x 5/16" front cover bolts 256031
3 x 2" x 5/16" front cover bolts 256226
2 X 2 3/4" x 5/16" rocker shaft shaft special bolts 525500
Dug out a copper head gasket and cut it to fit. It was a new one, so hopefully no asbestos. Nevertheless normal precautions taken.2023-07-29 16.03.05.jpg
Then had a check to see how well things fitted. Definitely feels like progress.
2023-07-29 18.28.32.jpg
The best head gasket I'm reliably informed is a Payen gasket. This is what I'll be using on my MG.
Yes - absolutely correct - a composite gasket is the way to go for a real build. In this case, in 1961, it would have had a copper gasket - hence me digging out one of my new ones put aside for just this sort of purpose.
DW, I've got a full set of timing cover and water pump bolts here for you. I don't believe the early heads used the special bolt with the deep head on the rocker pillars, but just standard 5/16 x 2 bolts 226259.
The club site has a '59 parts book to download, as it's S2 only you can pick up a lot of small changes to the part numbers compared to the '61 and '68 books
I've got the rocker cover 'caps' as well to go with those lovely acorn nuts 😇
That's great news Jon. So this one has the wrong rocker shaft bolts then.
Are the early type still available? I suppose in reality, I only need 2 or possibly 3 as the other two won't be visible through the cutaways in the rocker cover.
DW, the early ones are bog standard bolts so nothing special required 😇
Looking damn fine by the way 😎
My son has been busy...
We have now finished all the red detailing on the cutaways and going to start building up the head and bottom end.
We fitted the cut down piston into number 4 cylinder yesterday and a whole piston into number 3. I'm not bothering to fit 1&2 as nobody can see them and its one more thing that could jam. Camshaft and followers fitted.
I'm on the scrounge again...
I'm missing a timing pointer for the flywheel. Anybody got a petrol one spare they would donate?
I have an idea that we can use this engine not just for show, but perhaps for a bit of training. I'm therefore rebuilding it so it can be dissembled and rebuilt easily. I thought therefore I'd better get the timing right or face criticism for ever more...
Anybody able to help with the early rocker shaft bolts? I can get new bolts, but no point if there are some rattling about somewhere.
DW, there's a pointer as well as the flywheel cover that we powder coated 👍👍
Jon
So that's where it is! Thanks Jon!
More bits needed...
247714 - Front engine lifting eye. This is the S2 version with a wider fixing spacing than the 2A and S3 heads.
255068 - Oil filter housing bolt 7/16" UNF x 1/ 1/4" I need 2 of these.
256229 - S2 Rocker shaft bolts 5/16" UNF x 2" I need 3 of these or will just get some standard ones from a bolt supplier.
524769 - Grub screw retaining drive shaft bush for oil pump (sits behind the oil filter housing in the block).
Can anybody help before I have to persuade our Treasurer that I need to spend more club funds...? :cheers
The critical bit for me is the front lifting eye. Without it, I'll struggle to get the engine off the stand and onto the display stand without scratching and damaging the paintwork. - If there isn't one available, can anybody do me a template so I can make one?
We have had an idea to potentially light the interior of the engine with some LEDs - possibly just off a small 12V battery or PSU. Anybody got any suggestions? I think we would need to discretely stick 4 or 5 in it to look good:
I want to light up the following cutaway sections:
The rocker cover
Cylinder head
Crank case
Front cover
Finally, a nice bit of positive news. The Distributor Doctor has kindly offered to help resurrect the distributor which was in a sorry state. It got sent down to Somerset yesterday so I'm looking forward to seeing what comes back.
I want to make up an A1 or A2 sized display board which lists all those who have kindly contributed to this be they traders and or ordinary club members. The list is growing. In case I forget, I know who most people are who have sent stuff from this project, but I don't want to forget anybody. If you want your name showing as a contributor, would you mind dropping me a PM and reminding me so that I get the list up to date?
Thanking all very muchly! :cheers
255068 - Oil filter housing bolt 7/16" UNF x 1/ 1/4" I need 2 of these.
I might have one or two of these. My records say I purchased 4x "Set Bolt SH607101L 7/16 UNF x 1.25 inches. Oil filter housing attachment, etc." last November from Paddocks, for exactly that purpose, so there should be a couple in my garage somewhere if I can find them.
I might also be interested in locating a part 247714 for myself. Not sure yet. I have an engine with the ~1958 head on it, and I noticed that the lifting eye(s) I have won't fit it, so I am probably looking for the same part? Like you say, if we can get a pattern, maybe make one or two up. Usual sources out of stock, including Blanchards?
I should also be able to find the oil filter bolts for you.
As you know I also need to find a front lifting plate for my early head. If someone could provide some measurements and pictures I could investigate getting some cut as they're unavailable. I have early heads to measure for the hole spacing, it's just the overall size and the slot size
Jon
Quote from: Andrew on Aug 10, 2023, 03:04 PM255068 - Oil filter housing bolt 7/16" UNF x 1/ 1/4" I need 2 of these.
I might have one or two of these. My records say I purchased 4x "Set Bolt SH607101L 7/16 UNF x 1.25 inches. Oil filter housing attachment, etc." last November from Paddocks, for exactly that purpose, so there should be a couple in my garage somewhere if I can find them.
I might also be interested in locating a part 247714 for myself. Not sure yet. I have an engine with the ~1958 head on it, and I noticed that the lifting eye(s) I have won't fit it, so I am probably looking for the same part? Like you say, if we can get a pattern, maybe make one or two up. Usual sources out of stock, including Blanchards?
I haven't checked all the usual suppliers yet. I'm trying to do as much as possible through Club member donated parts, so it becomes more of a team effort. That said, if they have one, great, but as far as I can see it's out of stock.
Looks like we need at least three so far, so if anybody can provide us with a template, we can sort this.
I've checked everywhere to get an early bracket with no joy, so they'll need to be made for sure.
Jon
OK...
Calling all Series 2 owners with early engines... Anybody prepared to take their front lifting bracket off either an early 2.25 petrol engine or a 2.0 Diesel? We will have to make at least one, so we need one to copy. It just needs to be taken off and a scale drawing done - nothing too involved. In fact a photograph against a ruler would probably do!
Good news, I should shortly be getting an early plate 👍
I'll draw up a pattern and look at the best way forward, laser/water cut or hand made.
I guess numbers will affect that decision.
Jon
Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 10, 2023, 08:45 PMOK...
Calling all Series 2 owners with early engines... Anybody prepared to take their front lifting bracket off either an early 2.25 petrol engine or a 2.0 Diesel? We will have to make at least one, so we need one to copy. It just needs to be taken off and a scale drawing done - nothing too involved. In fact a photograph against a ruler would probably do!
I might have one on a 2l diesel which I could donate. I don't remember, will check tomorrow and let you know. Out all day today sorry!
Jonhutchings, if you have one you can donate to DW that would be great. When I get mine I'll post and see if/how many others might be needed.
DW, or 'newton' filter housing bolts and washers located and added to the pile 😝
Jon
Jon are you sending 1.25" bolts already to DW? If so I won't go digging for mine. My garage is in chaos just now and actually getting to my parts boxes is even more difficult than usual :(
I'm definitely in for an early lifting bracket if any get made up, as long as the cost is not unreasonable.
Andrew
Is this the correct part you are looking for DW? It looks like it might be home made ? If it is of any use PM me your address and I'll get it in the post this week
In DW's absence,
Andrew, I've sorted the bolts so no need to search for them
Jon, unfortunately that's the later bracket. On the early ones the holes are inline with the slot , they fit the deep thermostat heads.
I'll post about making/getting some made once I've got hold of eBay find
JonB
Fine.
I started a new thread specifically about this lifting eye.
It looks to me like the holes are 1 3/8" apart, but the awkward bit is that the line-of-pull upwards is obstructed by the body of the outlet housing, so the eye will have to work around that.
https://series2club.co.uk/2023_new_forum/index.php?topic=444.new#new (https://series2club.co.uk/2023_new_forum/index.php?topic=444.new#new)
will have another look tomorrow for the lifting eye now I know what I'm looking for. Have a few 2l and 2.25 diesel heads, so hopefully one of the 2ltr heads will have right one.
I found this which you are welcome to. I has however got a crack as you can see (looks like it may have been bent in the past)
Might be good enough for a template ?
The work continues!2023-08-17 15.08.35.jpg
I am staggered by the quality and progress of this project, and the efforts of all concerned.
I really hope I get to see it one day in all it's glory.
:)
Thanks Andrew.
The plan is to show it off at the NEC show in November. After that I don't know. I think we should use it as a training / demo tool for the club. Perhaps have it on display at various club events and run workshops. For those who know the engine well, its all pretty basic, but for those who don't, its a great teaching aid. You could run a service course - tappets, points, valve timing and so on. I've built it with gaskets, but no sealant - all dry, so it can come apart if need be. Woe betide the person who fails to put it back together again - they will feel the imprint of my boot on their posterior...
Maybe the next step is to produce a cutaway gearbox?
I have a bunch of gears, casings, hand brake etc that I could donate to the cause.
Craig.
Quote from: jonhutchings on Aug 16, 2023, 04:46 PMI found this which you are welcome to. I has however got a crack as you can see (looks like it may have been bent in the past)
Might be good enough for a template ?
Jon - received this morning. Very many thanks. I'll either repair it or copy it. Either way - many thanks - much appreciated.
Quote from: Craig T on Aug 18, 2023, 10:00 AMMaybe the next step is to produce a cutaway gearbox?
I have a bunch of gears, casings, hand brake etc that I could donate to the cause.
Craig.
I think there are a few out there in the big bad world. Just not sure who has them. If we know of anybody who can machine large lumps out of large alloy castings. I'd love to do that. I actually have a complete gearbox we could use if need be. Just needs time... Something I'm a bit short of at the moment.
Quick appeal...
I've just noticed that the front cover we have is in fact a later one. No problem there - its been painted and cutaway, so we can live with that. I therefore need a bog standard later civilian water pump. Anybody got one they don't want?
I also need an intermediate hose. I'll use new Jubilee clips.
We could of course buy new, but if anybody feels generous enough to donate... :gold-cup
Another appeal...
If anybody has a nice tappet gap advisory plate and 4 screws spare for the rocker cover, can they please let me know?
Items 17 & 18 in this image...
Thank you!Screenshot 2023-08-19 163625.jpg
Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 19, 2023, 01:56 PMQuote from: jonhutchings on Aug 16, 2023, 04:46 PMI found this which you are welcome to. I has however got a crack as you can see (looks like it may have been bent in the past)
Might be good enough for a template ?
Jon - received this morning. Very many thanks. I'll either repair it or copy it. Either way - many thanks - much appreciated.
You are most welcome glad it may be of some use. Keep up the good work
Despite DPD's best efforts to undermine progress by being seemingly incapable of delivering an order of new fixings from Margnors, we have made progress today.
The block is now in the display frame and the head is on. I've used 3 of the short head bolts to hold the engine in the frame until the proper bolts arrive.
Next stage is timing the engine and waiting for the Distributor Doctor to work his magic on the distributor I sent him.
2023-08-21 18.20.39.jpg
Another appeal for help...
If you look at the picture below, you can see that the oil filler tube side plate is bent. It is bent because there are now only three fixings holding the plate in place at the bottom and nothing supporting it up top. Even the brace tab is floating in mid air. The first time somebody trues to move the engine by pushing on the oil filler, it clearly must have bent. I can of course straighten it, but I'm looking for a solution. Anybody keen to offer some some fabrication skills?
I'm think of a steel plate (maybe 2mm) cut to the shape of the filler plate which I can sandwich behind and bolt to the block and then nut and bolt the upper fixings through to give it a modicum of strength.
Alternatively, if anybody has a spare plate off a military engine (24V), that has the front cover mounted oil filler and a blanking side plate. We could just fit that along with the filler pipe
2023-08-21 18.18.52.jpg
This is what I'm after... Anybody got one?
2020-08-01 09.37.10.jpg
I think I might. I'll have a look tomorrow.
Sorry Diffwhine. After a thorough search during which I turned up Land Rover things I'd: forgotten about, I couldn't find one.
DW, this is my other breather cap that we've tried the special powdercoat on.
It's darker than my original, but would look pretty good with the AC sticker I gave you on it.
Anyhow, it's here and yours if you want it 👍
The rest is looking great 🤩
Jon
Quote from: Alan Drover on Aug 22, 2023, 01:09 PMSorry Diffwhine. After a thorough search during which I turned up Land Rover things I'd: forgotten about, I couldn't find one.
No problem - thanks for looking. The hunt goes on!
Quote from: JonB on Aug 22, 2023, 03:19 PMDW, this is my other breather cap that we've tried the special powdercoat on.
It's darker than my original, but would look pretty good with the AC sticker I gave you on it.
Anyhow, it's here and yours if you want it 👍
The rest is looking great 🤩
Jon
Thanks Jon - that's great. Yes please!
Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 19, 2023, 02:18 PMQuick appeal...
I therefore need a bog standard later civilian water pump. Anybody got one they don't want?
I
Somewhere I have a water pump with a corroded hose connection you can have, if you are still looking for one. I will find it this weekend and send you a picture.
Kind regards, Martin
Made good progress this morning. Timed up the engine and am currently doing battle with the distributor gear.
However we have hit a snag...2023-08-26 12.08.29.jpg
Does anybody have any images of this cutaway engine as it was originally before it was stripped down into a pile of bits some 5 or 6 years ago? It has an early head with the deep thermostat housing. That's the original cutaway head. However it appears as though the cutaway front cover we have is the later one with a standard water pump. As the top of the front cover has been cut off, it clears the thermostat housing. What I had not realised was that of course you cannot fit a water pump as it will foul the thermostat housing.
Therefore I'm wondering of this engine ever had a water pump fitted? It looks like its always been built with the later front cover. The only way round this is to change the head or change the front cover. Clearly the machining on the head makes changing that prohibitive, but it may be feasible to fit an early front cover and water pump. I think that cutting the same holes in an early front cover would be relatively simple (although a lot of work).
So - if I cannot find an early front cover and water pump, it will have to stay as is with the wrong later front cover. If anybody has an early front cover and water pump which I can butcher, that would be great. If not, it starts its new lease of life with an obvious inaccuracy.
And yes - I do know the lifting eye is cracked. I put it there so I don't lose it. I'll either repair it or use it as a template for a new one.
Mark, how about cutting a later water pump housing to match the cover, thus clearing the head, but leaving the shaft and impeller on view. The bearing could be fixed in place somehow so it could even turn with a fan belt?
There was an early cover on the bay for £25 I think, I'll try to find it
Jon
Thanks Jon,
I thought of doing that, but the impeller will still be very close (if not fouling) the thermostat housing.
I think another front cover suitably modified is our best optio, so if you find that one on eBay please send me the link.
Makes me wonder what this cutaway engine was really like originally...
Pleased to confirm that JonB of this manor has offered not just to donate his spare early front cover to the cause, but also to do the cutaway work for me! :cheers :cheers
This is excellent news as we can obviously make the engine look far more period correct. We are proposing to not cut the top of the front cover like the old one, but to cut a water pump casing instead (when we find one).
We are therefore now pretty much there with the rebuild. The front cover in the image below will be replaced with Jon's one and I need to find a water pump. We are then waiting for the Distributor Doctor to send back the DM2 Distributor, find a few more front cover fixings and then we are pretty much ready for the NEC show in November.
I'm after a dynamo stay bar / adjuster bar if anybody can spare one. Item 24 in the image below (P/N 247523)
Screenshot 2023-09-01 073525.jpg
Apart from that, the only significant outstanding issue is how to reinforce the oil filler tube side plate. Ideally I want to get a 3 - 4 mm plate made up in the shape of the gasket which I can sandwich between the block and the plate. If I then nut and bolt the top of the filler tube plate, it will give some rigidity. The alternative is to find an old military side cover plate without a filler on it and modify that. - again looking for donations!
2023-08-30 17.41.26.jpg
Here 'ya go DW, I cut somewhat more than the other cover but I'm quite pleased with the end result.
Jon
So am I!
Thanks Jon.
Need to make a plan to collect, but this is excellent news.
Regarding the oil filler,
I think I've got a spare fuel pump plate, would that work as the support? I'll check tomorrow
Jon
Might work Jon. I'll have a look at the hole spacing.
I had a spare bit of time today, so set the mill up to make a front lift plate out of a later rear one (I think).
Another bit on its way
Jon
That's great Jon. Looking really good. Thanks so much!
Diffwhine,
I finished the lifting eye today, so all the parts are here for whenever you can get them.
If anyone in the southwest is passing Frome and heading Diffwhines way, let us know.
Thanks all
Thanks Jon,
I'll be in touch. I'm in London most of this week, so it will be next week I reckon.
We need a water pump... I thought somebody had one, but it's not what we thought it was.
Part number is 501041 for the Series 2 2.25 and 2.0 diesel water pump. Suppliers are showing it as on exchange only.
We need one - doesn't matter if it leaks, but it needs to be able to rotate and have an intact impeller.
Can anybody help?
Could you not craft a 9 hole pump on there by cutting away the missing stud/hole as they are pretty hard to come by and a shame to cut up one that is serviceable (and expensive).
Unfortunately not. The top of the impeller sits too high, so even that would foul on the thermostat housing. I have a 9 hole pump here and its not going to work.
While I think about it, does anybody have a nice tappet gap plate they would be prepared to donate for the rocker cover?
Have got this one if off use. Think it might be to far gone though.
This?
Series 3 mind you.
Do we have them in the shop?
Peter
109+1, thanks but it may be a bit too far gone for a display engine.
Old Hywel, that one looks like it might clean up ok - is it intact at the corners? I'm after the 4 screws as well if possible.
Shop - not sure - I'll have a look and ask Andrew.
Risked life and limb to take another peep. Yes, looks sound.
I'll need to find the right screwdriver to avoid marmalising the screw heads.
Fantastic. I'll drop you a PM.
Thanks to JonB, we now have the correct modified front cover and a whole load of other useful bits which I'm busy painting and getting ready to fit.
While going to the Club outing to Exmoor Trim yesterday, I stopped off at the Distributor Doctor in Wiveliscombe and collected the Club's refurbished distributor. Having given Martin what was essentially a piece of scrap, he has turned it into a fully functional DM2 distributor. Far more than I expected, but it is really the only fully functional part part of the whole engine! What a great man and what a great business! Really impressed with the whole operation and will probably post some information about that separately or do an article for B2L.
However... I have now gained a new problem! Now that we have the correct early distributor mounting plate for the engine (thank you JonB again), of course I now find that the drive adapter is the wrong one to mate the oil pump to the distributor drive. I need the early one which is p/n 247806. That's item 23 in the image below. I can't find a spare one and would rather not use my own one which is waiting to go into my own engine. Has anybody got a spare one they can throw this way?
Screenshot 2023-09-22 174300.jpg
A bit of a tumbleweed moment over this distributor drive gear...
Surely somebody has got one rattling about?
If it's a problem getting one to me, maybe the Newbury Sortout is an option?
Aside from my distributor drive issue (we could just buy a new one from Craddocks), we are pretty much there now and almost ready to show it.
IMG_0064.JPG
that's a work of art!
That looks amazing, well done to all involved.
Phil.
Phil, you need to buy a ticket for the NEC (use your club discount) and come down to see it in the flesh. It is much nicer than your telephone box
Peter
That is, quite simply, a thing of beauty.
Never mind the NEC - put it in The Louvre!