Drums needed wire brushing, so in removal, discovered new brake cylinders, shoes!
All drain holes plugged, so wirebrushed the lot and painted them. Rack rod and ends v rusty, wirebrushed and found the track rod ends just need a cleanup. No play.

Nice.

88" or 109" Petrol or diesel? Got a pic?

James

1964 Series 2A. Half-finished purchase Richards galv chassis, painted new bulkhead. rebuilt engine by Precision Engineering in Elgin. Diffs refurb'd, new swivels, shocks. New carb, points distributor, starter motor, exhaust. Lots of old panels, two sets good doors and tops, two sets wings, old and new centre rad panels, old grill mesh. Two safari roofs in good shape, two tubs, New speedo, original dash and gauges. Rear and side windows,

Quote from: OrangeLandy on May 26, 2024, 10:40 AMTest foto

Nice. I've seen that one, I think. One of several orange Series Land Rovers at JM Classics... Are you going to import it to France? Behind it is a Series 2 6-pot (notice another orange Series in the back). Up until recently for sale at a whooping € 34.750...
Richard

Many years ago when I used my Land Rover a great deal more than I do nowadays I wore out a set of G90's but it took an extremely long time and considerably more than 3,000 miles.
I wonder what load and ply rating tyres are fitted to heavyweight leccy thingies. I would imagine a standard car tyre doesn't have the correct load rating.
The G90's are 10 ply and maximum load per tyre of 2,760 lb at 75 psi.

The gearbox in Jessac (1964) looks like a dogs breakfast. Rest of the mechanicals have been rebuilt / refurb'd, but the PO knows nothing of the gearbox history. I'm thinking no point in building the rest of the truck without refurbing it. What is the gearbox type?  Rebuild by a professional, or buy a refurbished one?  Any contacts, suggestions, advice. Transfer box also.

If it's a Land Rover tyre life is more often measured in years.

With the deep tread of the style of LR tyres, wear isn't really a problem - it's side wall cracking & crazing due to age and exposure to (UV) light.

I've just replaced the front tyres on my eurobox after 30,000 miles and put the rears on the front (half worn) and the brand new tyres on the rear 


 

What is it about Orange Landies in France! There's another member over there who keeps buying Landies and painting them orange!

Looks great tho 

Welcome! A photo often helps when raising a topic, I think.

 Shout if you need any help dating your truck/engine - we might have it on the club database or some near-abouts. Can send me a PM with the details if this is of interest.

James
Vehicle Database Officer

Quote from: Gareth on May 25, 2024, 10:23 PMStill not happy with my steering. Already done steering box, swivels and joints. Still felt vague and heavy.

Only bit left to check - the relay! Stiff as a board! Took some bolts out and rusty water dribbled out. I screwed a grease nipple in and forced some oil in, but it would not loosen up.

So need to replace it. No time today, so will take it out next week. I reckon it must have been fitted before the front panel, because the bolts are in from the front. No way they will come out forwards, so I'll have to take the front panel mounting bolts out and wing bolts, to lift it up to get it out.

No need to remove it - yet.

Remove the top arm and the top plate. Disconnect the bottom arm from the steering rod. Then pour oil into the open top. Work away at the bottom arm, after a while it will free up, while dribbling more oil into the top. The spring cannot fly out, as it's held by the tapered bushes.

You can also remove the bottom arm, move it round on the splines to a different place, and put back on and tighten up. Carry on moving the arm.

If this doesn't free up the relay, then brace yourself to remove it.