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#1
General Discussion / Re: Question what will it be t...
Last post by gcc130 - Today at 01:32 PM
You could look on eBay to get an idea of prices being asked. Dashpanels always seem quite expensive in the UK
Unfortunately yours does have several extra holes in the panel which will put off most restorers.
#2
???
I have an old dashboard and I'm wondering what the value would be.
Just an indication.
In the past I gave a lot away for a few beer tokens but afterwards I heared that the items where sold again with a lot of profit and not for rebuilding there car.
And then I mean items like the S2 door hinges, heater and wiper engines etc.  :thud

The speedometer, amp and fuel meters where working 10 years ago when I took the landy apart.

I do not really intent to sell it to the VK due to tax and customs.

Thank you Rob (the Netherlands)
#3
General Discussion / Re: Does it go?
Last post by Archie - Today at 12:42 PM
 :pedal
It does stop, but it may take some time, a head wind and gravity on your side 😉
#4
602's musings / Re: VERY OT ... 602's new elec...
Last post by Gareth - Today at 12:32 PM
Our electric Up! has the same regenerative braking.

It's activated by selecting 'B' on the gear selector. If you leave it in D then when you take your foot off the gas (amps?) it just coasts.

When you press the brake pedal in either mode, in initially increases the regenerative effect proportionally, until when you are pressing it quite hard, it supplements the braking force by using the service brakes. Pretty seamless operation and the brakes are hardly worn at all after 2.5 years and 13.5k miles.
#5
602's musings / Re: VERY OT ... 602's new elec...
Last post by Wittsend - Today at 12:15 PM
That's because the braking energy is fed back into re-charging the battery - just as happens on F1 cars.
It's a similar principle. Foot off the pedal the car slows and the battery is charging. If you really need to stamp on the brake pedal then the "traditional" brakes take over.

 :pedal
#6
602's musings / Re: VERY OT ... 602's new elec...
Last post by w3526602 - Today at 11:39 AM
Hi,

Gosh, this "thread" is running!

One quirk that still puzzles is "slowing down as it approaches roundabouts", but the braking effect seems to fade away as it actually reaches the roundabout ... I think. The process doesn't last long enough to study.

On the the other hand, nobody can complain about a car that can "kick you in the back" anytime you kick the (NOT) loud pedal. Most satisfying when bloke behind gets too close.  :cheers-man  I wonder what the 0 to 60 time is for a Kona.

I didn't buy this car, Barbara did ... without asking permission. Paid cash! It just arrived in the drive. She said it was a birthday prezzy. Nothing in it for her ... she has been totally confined to bed for over a year.

Doh! My/our girls have arrived again, dinner is ready. No sense of timing!

602
#7
General Discussion / Re: which sidelights?
Last post by diffwhine - Today at 11:34 AM
Those are the same indicators as fitted as original to my 65 Station Wagon.

I like the stop tail lights though - very period!
#8
General Discussion / Re: Does it go?
Last post by Exile - Today at 11:32 AM
I think "does it stop" is a more relevant question.
#9
General Discussion / Re: which sidelights?
Last post by Exile - Today at 11:30 AM
Quote from: diffwhine on May 14, 2024, 08:35 AMIt is true that on the line, whatever was available and met the spec was fitted. All the way through series and Defender production the suppliers of the stop, indicator and stop lamps (all the later standard round types) came from multiple suppliers. LEP, Lucas, Wipac and so on. We need to remember that this was seen as a commercial vehicle by Land Rover right up to the end of Defender production. The aesthetics of which light looked right was largely irrelevant provided the correct size and illumination lights were fitted at each corner. It would be nice to know what was originally fitted to a given historic vehicle, but without actual historic or photographic proof, its pretty difficult to be that accurate.

My 1959 diesel was fitted with Sparto indicators that looked like this:
#10
Thanks Geoff, that is helpful.

My thoughts;

Come across engine bulkhead to close to clutch master cyl, then forward and left onto wing bulkhead then across to engine, coiling the capillary tube for strain relief. Put clips on clutch master cyl housing bracket and on wing bulkhead, check for pipes flapping around and add extra clips/cable ties as necessary.

This seems to be similar to the manual.