Me again, does the fuel and water gauge only work if it's via a voltage stabiliser, is it something to do with reducing it from 12v, could be wrong, at the moment the wires from the loom go straight into the dash panel, thanks
All depends what the age of the vehicle is and what gauges and senders you have.
From Chassis Suffix D, April 1967 the voltage stabiliser was fitted and this reduced the voltage to around 10v. This required different gauges with straight needles and different sender units.
The earlier gauges were non stabilised and worked straight off the loom. These can be seen as having pointed, arrow heads on the gauges.
The voltage stabiliser is a funny thing as it kind of reduces the voltage but it does it by turning the voltage on and off. It's a bi-metallic strip that heats up when the current is flowing then turns off until the strip cools, then it comes back on again. Difficult thing to check as they only work with the correct load on them.
There are more modern versions off course now that use a simple transistor to reduce the voltage to 10v.
Craig.
The details of how the voltage stabiliser is wired is available in the wiring diagrams in the technical section. I believe the vehicle in question is a 1970 ex military 109.If my 1968 Rover 1 was anything to go by, it should have a voltage stabiliser, but the problem is what has been done to it since 1970?
Assume it should have one if it has straight needles on the gauges as opposed to arrow heads. Assume it should be mounted securely to the bulkhead behind the dash and earthed to the bulkhead. If you have a Series 3 type dash, it should be attached to the back of the instrument pack. If you don't have one, source a modern solid state one.
Before we can advise we need to see pictures of your instrument gauges.
If it's truly a 1970 vehicle then it will need a voltage stabiliser.
:RHD
Does this help
Need a picture of the front to see what needles are on the gauges.
Paul
I'd like to see a picture of the gauge faces.
As this is a 1970 model there should be a voltage stabiliser.
You mention you have a water temp and fuel gauge.
This strongly suggests you have a post 1967 model and the gauge needles should be straight, something like this:-
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/instrument_cluster_S2_modified.jpg)
Although if truly of MoD origin, there may be "extra" gauges ... oil temp, volts, etc.
But ... if someone has grafted on an early bulkhead then the gauges (and wiper motor) could have been carried over giving you a miss-match of parts ???
Can't actually see a voltage stabiliser in there. a pic of the bulkhead behind the dash panel should show it if it's there.
You are looking for a little metal can like this:-
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/voltage_stabiliser-a.jpg)
It's all been completely re wired, here are my gauges , hopefully you can make them out
Been cleaned since 😂
Here is another picture of the back and if you look towards the left hand side I think that is the stabiliser
That is the stabiliser and you need that with the fuel gauge.
The other 2 gauges do not need a wire on, they look like ones that have tubes on and they have been cut off.
Paul
Is it difficult to wire for the fuel gauge, at the moment it plugs straight into the back, how do I connect it via the stabiliser, thanks
Yes, you have the later 2A gauge set up.
You need the voltage stabiliser to work the fuel gauge.
As posted ^^^ the other 2 gauges are "mechanical" in that they have a sender and a capillary tube to the gauge. These are not a practical DiY repair. The gauges need to be sent away to a specialist instrument restorer - won't be cheap.
You voltage stabiliser may or may not be working. You can purchase new off eBay or go for a modern solid-state stabiliser for about the same money. Make sure your stabiliser has a good earth contact with the bulkhead. Remove and sand away any paint or rust around the mounting hole.
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/fuel_gauge_circuit.jpg)
Here is an eBay link to a solid-state voltage stabiliser
Voltage Stabiliser (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284396630804?itmmeta=01HSVGY6W3V696NE1BJRDZDVZX&hash=item42375c3314:g:XxEAAOxyRhBS-o2P&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8E162P9gXt5f5YNJba13%2FWPCCNmdAu6Hyc23GKEI7ZePFG%2BerqGxpWWiR3oDQ378Hd5DKQtkdZ2aD2o6hZXmx8IPgUKuypnJubXZVb83vdaIhCMSHeRbyDbrIph%2FHFAYuz4PLdE1wYkhlpDtCxAXyk4JIzDlAP%2B%2Br9nVBWg4UJkkf0kDoms7jqV6QKLoZ8NKaS7MfThBt%2BYC2RVeNNjFDlYJd8Z7rFGmRowNq3opOxE8i%2BdTaV0r1yjznxpyOEzrDnNjNZNYejYHEq9lqPF3wi2D1w0I51oKCiad%2FPwsz0UTjCiBaD3YFDxN4ss331FDOg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6Tu-PDOYw)
:RHD
Yeah the stabiliser is new, so is that a wire from my fuse box to the stabiliser then a wire from the stabiliser to my fuel gauge????
Yes, as per the diagram.
:RHD
Just double checking I was seeing it correctly, thanks
Also just remembered that I got a new gauge that had the correct fittings on the back so I will try and take a picture tomorrow as it would be good to get the temperature working etc
Found pictures of my replacement dial, hope it doesn't change things
Well, all those gauges look like electrical ones, though one of them appears to have screw terminals rather than spade terminals. It's not possible to tell which one it is from the rear view though.
Whether all is now well will depend on what's at the engine end- if there are electrical water and oil temperature senders you're probably OK but if the senders are capillary bulb water and oil temperature senders (as required for the cut off pipe (capillary tube) original gauges) you'll need to source the appropriate electrical ones instead.
Good luck!
To work those gauges you are going to need 2 electrical temperature sensors ...
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/temp_sensor_thread_size.jpg)
Your problem is that no two sensors seem to give the same readings :shakinghead
You are more than likely going to need an adaptor piece to fit the electrical sensor(s) to the engine.
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/temperature_sensor_resistances.jpg)
Whilst you can "fine tune" the gauges they are never meant to be super accurate in their readings.
The same sensor is/can be used for both water and oil.
Another problem you might/will have is that if the MoD oil cooler has been removed, then so has where the oil temp sensor goes :'(
You will have to find another place to fit the oil sensor - the sump ??? or more practically a "T" in the top of the oil filter housing.
To be fair an oil temp gauge is somewhat overkill on a civvy use vehicle. The oil temp was for FFR vehicles when stationary running to charge the batteries up.
Not much help on a normal vehicle. On mine the oil hardly ever gets "hot".
:hot
I think the fuel gauge is now working, I have temporarily wired it up to check it, what happens regarding the twin tank set up do I piggy back a connection from my fuel sender wire in the picture, remember the joint is temporary
Ah ha ... another can of worms opens (https://www.series2club.co.uk/2023_new_forum/Smileys/wittsends/can_of_worms_2.gif)
(some) Army/MoD vehicles had twin fuel tanks (10 gallons) under each front seat.
There is a change-over valve in the driver's footwell, above the dip switch.
This change-over valve does 2 things.
1) it changes the fuel feed from either tank to the fuel pump.
2) it has an electrical switch for each tank to connect which ever tank is in use to the fuel gauge on the dash.
Each tank having its own tank sender.
These change-over valves are not cheap. After many years of being idle, the cork seal on the shaft will have dried out/perished and it will leak petrol. IIRC the Ferguson tractors used the same cork seal.
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/LWT_fuel_tap-1.jpg)
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/LWT_fuel_tap-3.jpg)
(https://www.wittsend.co.uk/wittsend_technical/images/twin_tanks_change-over.jpg)
Your change-over valve may well be missing, but you should see the tell-tale hole for the lever.
:RHD
If you need a change over valve, I have a few. Let me know.
I have the change over valve and it appears to work