I read a lot of people like these pedal locks but they are not cheap.
A question that I'm wondering about is that in my 11a I have standard brake and clutch pedals but a ex defender cable type accelerator pedal not the rod and lever linkage. Would a standard series 11/11a/111 'ardcase fit and work with no issues ???
Thinking about the cost, is this the best security I can get for this money ??? (already having a Disclock, hand brake lock)
And if all the answers seem right has any one got a series 'ardcase for sale for a fair price ???
I had to measure the gaps between the pedals and take photos to send to him so they could ensure a correct fit, so I'm not sure a secondhand one would fit? I'm sure if you sent a photo of you pedal arrangement he would advise whether it would fit or not...he seems pretty helpful.
I like mine, it's robust and with a discloc is a good visible deterrent in my opinion.
Thinking about the price and fit on my pedal layout I did wonder about this but not as well designed and perhaps not as secure :ebay 256335104246
£85.99 with postage
(and how do you do the ebay link on this new forum :confused )
I have the ardcase, I had to measure and take pictures. They re-made it twice but still not correct. Nothing was to much trouble for them. I ended up with them making a 2 peddle ardcase. It fits very well and very easy to fit.
I use a Clutch Claw. It's more "universal" than an Ardcase, nowhere near as bulky and easier to store.
Quote from: Alan Drover on Dec 12, 2023, 05:24 PMI use a Clutch Claw. It's more "universal" than an Ardcase, nowhere near as bulky and easier to store.
I've always used a clutch claw, as mentioned it's less bulky and easier to store when not in use, I used to store mine behind the seat and as it was a daily I used it religiously wherever and whenever I left the Land Rover :cheers-man Paul
Agreed. Many a LR security device appeals to the LR stereotype. Think for a second. Real world you want something quick and easy and compact to get on and off. Else you'll tire of using or storing. You'll not put it on in 5-6 secs. That 'ardcase is cumbersome to use, and real-world won't slow down a determined thief more than a clutch-claw. Thus it may be more secure but it self-defeats. An angle-grinder will defeat both just as quickly.
All you can do is delay and hope you make it hard enough for them to move to another target. Out and about, I use two layers, a clutch-claw and a handbrake lock. At home I park behind a security post. I'm under no delusion. If they want it bad enough, they'll get it.
Having owned both, the Ardcase is a far superior product to the clutch claw and built much better. It is, however, so heavy and with no 'brace' to the footwell that the constant pressure on the brake pedal caused a slight weep on my brake MC - requires investigation, of course, but I've never had a leak before or since (I propped it up with a piece of wood as the 2a is parked up at the moment). A moot point, perhaps.
The lock mechanism is a bit fiddly to use compared to the clutch claw but as I say, overall much better in my opinion. A local 90 was stolen some 8 or so years ago, recovered with an early ardcase defeated and thrown in the back. They took it back and modified the design having worked out how they got in so a current model should be quite a bit stronger.
Agreed on the fact a cordless angle grinder will beat most locks, but it's all just a case of slowing someone down. Grinding is noisy and slow, bolt cutters are neither. Very little will stop someone coming along with a tilt back wagon or similar though.
EBay link (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256335104246) Wasn't there an Ebay button on the old forum?
It's big and obvious so might be as good a "better" unit as a deterent? Has anyone got one?
Why not make your own, if you or a good friend have moderate to good welding skills its not that hard. I made a wooden template up first.
I use a large heavy duty padlock to secure the anti theft device.
Yes it takes a minute or so to install but its compact size allows me to store it in the door pocket.
I think I'm going to build a handbrake lock mechanism as well they are very easy to install quickly.
I agree if some body really really wants your rover they will go to any means to get it.
However most simple anti theft devices and some common sense will stop the amateur's and the joy riders.
Just ask my good friend Ralph his house was broken into...guess which keys were sitting on top of the fridge? The car disappeared as well.
Victor
Here is a picture for the dimensions.
Paul
Hi Paul
Thanks I knew I had posted that picture sometime in the past.
You have to push the accelerator pedal down to install the device.
Victor
That looks good. Compact for starters. Might take too long to get any padlock etc in. Suppose if it's possible to leave the padlock dangling - the two don't get separated.
Anti-theft threads on here always seem to read the same way. Few think to walk in the shoes of the thief. The central premise left to go waaaaaaay over our heads.
Theft is supposed to be easy. Easier than work. Minimal risk. Simple money, quick rewards. It's not supposed to require any thought, be anything like work or carry risk.
All that's required is the up the risk/ reward / thought process beyond what's attractive to our thief and we win. Usually.
When an anti-theft measure means we're doing more work than the thief it's clear this is not understood. This would explain the success of many products perennially sold to LR owners. How non-self-aware do to we have to be for that stuff to sell, yet it does?
I have 4 x layers of protection; all four, take less to arm/uninstall than one Ardcase.
Security cannot be one sole item, whatever the solution, the whole shebang must be quick and easy, else install search-lights and goon-towers and have it done.
Quote from: NoBeardNoTopKnot on Dec 16, 2023, 08:31 AMAll that's required is the up the risk/ reward / thought process beyond what's attractive to our thief and we win. Usually.
When an anti-theft measure means we're doing more work than the thief it's clear this is not understood.
Surely that leaves out the vital parameter - the value of the item, a) to the thief, b) to the owner?
If your car is worth £100, you are poor, and you need the car to get to work tomorrow, then it's worth going to a lot of trouble to stop it being stolen.
If the car is worth £100,000 but you are a multi-billionaire then it's hardly worth even locking it.
Between those extremes there is a whole spectrum of values and circumstances. I don't think one can generalise about whether a device is worth fitting or not.
As I discovered today a Clutch Claw can be used as a one person brake light tester by using the pieces separately to hold down the brake pedal. The lights still work.
Quote from: Clifford Pope on Dec 16, 2023, 05:32 PMBetween those extremes there is a whole spectrum of values and circumstances. I don't think one can generalise about whether a device is worth fitting or not.
Some people don't like generalisations. Make a generalisation, eg men are taller than women, and some people will dive in with
"You think all women are short, and that's not true".
It's a verbal-trick which if flushed past us becomes very effective.
Can you find a tall woman and a short man? Yes, but that doesn't change the fact. Thus when you hear someone say an accurate generalisation doesn't apply to them, listen hard. It usually reveals far more than those that say it intend.
Which is preferable? The "inconvenience" of removing anti theft devices or the theft of your Land Rover? I know which I prefer.
Ah, I see. Before a decision or taking a position, we might be better to think about the think. Then think about how we got to the think.
An effective solution that I have seen in the field is a ring or single chain link welded to the gearstick. A corresponding attachment under the dash allows the vehicle to be kept in gear by another chain and padlock. A longer chain can be used to also keep the clutch pedal from moving.
Regards
J
Quote from: Ed Straker on Dec 19, 2023, 07:42 AM... a ring or single chain link welded to the gearstick...
That sounds on point, more real-world effective than my clutch claw. I have a handbrake-lock, I can apply and then remove in no more than 10-12 secs all-in. Thus it's the go-to first layer used whilst filling-up etc. Done right, your solution would be as quick or quicker, with no more to store.
eg: think about thinking. How and when in real-world you'll use 'whatever', this over inconvenience, and the balance of risk-probability. I use four layers, never less than two at any one time, however... not all four layers, ALL the time.
I need to get a "round tuit" to complete but.. I've recently cut out a couple of lumps of 3"x 3" 6mm thick angle that I intend to make a pedal lock out of, it'll go over and under the pedals with a slot thru one and a 1/2 inch plate tab to receive a hockey Puck style padlock.
I doubt it'll be very easy to "bully off" 😁
I knew I had one but had to rummage around to find it, bought a few years ago for the Wolf I had then and never used it, an x deterred pedal lock. I'm not in a position to check, not being that far along with the rebuild but did they work and would one fit a S2 ?
While on the subject of the Wolf ( out of the ordinary range for here I know) but a lesson I learned that applies across the board.
I bought it from Witham it had been supplied to the 16th air assault brigade and held in readiness at Colchester for a call which never came eventually being, I believe, timed out of its life with the MOD. It was virtually new ( 19k miles) and I drove it straight to a Land Rover specialist near leamington for a cam belt change. A week later while paying for the change I asked what the old belt was like and was told it had been fine and in any case if one broke nothing happened other than the engine stopping.
Two months later bimbling down the M5 at just over 50 there was a brief harsh mechanical growl and a dead engine.
On dealing with the wreckage we found the bolts holding the inspection cover for the belt had been removed and replaced, nothing else had.
Here are photos of the car and what remained of the ' 8 week old belt'
Moral, don't trust people, check !
Can't read my own writing, it's the x defend pedal lock, doh !
Ken,
Out of interest, what model your is your XD Defender and is it a standard GS Model or one with all the winterised and wading kit on it? If have some history with them and the 300Tdi cam belt issues. I take it that this is all now sorted, but I am surprised that a "Land Rover Specialist" should advise you that the 300Tdi is a "safe engine". If the belt fails, it can do horrendous damage as it appears you have already found out!
The reason for asking is that there were a series of different repairs for this belt issue depnding on age and spec of the engine. If you already know all this, apologies for mentioning it, but I am aware of several repairs done by "Specialists" which have not done the full repair necessitating it being done again. The issue revolves round alignment of the belt due to incorrect pump positioning.
I think the x defender will be the standard version, I wasn't aware there was a second one available for wading. Considering the Wolf was set up with a snorkel the wading version would have been a more sensible choice.
I was new to Land Rovers with the Wolf and accepted the comments made regarding the 300 tdi as a non interference engine as they were the professionals. I'm absolutely certain they made no modifications to the belt system, firstly because the fixings needing to be undone to get in at the belt were stubborn and had, obviously, not been touched for a very long time and the belt cover gasket was old a dirty around its edge. But also what came out of the belt housing was dry rubber dust and wire from a very old and perished belt.
These days I question everything and am inclined towards undertaking everything myself. A pain at times but it gets a good job done and keeps me safe. My house has twice been filled with carbon monoxide by a hetas engineer, wood burner and aga so I don't trust them either except ( reluctantly) for gas which we don't have as it goes bang !
Thanks for that. Very much as I expected. The primary issue with the belt was it running forward and chafing on the front timing cover. A revised kit was introduced to keep the belt straight and to stop this, but the biggest cause was misalignment of the fuel injector pump due to incorrect installation and a sintered belt gear set which was prone to flex. Never had any of that on the 200Tdi!