Hi me again, what are the size of studs that fit the spare wheel carrier, I got replacement ones that I thought were correct but they were too small, they measured 27mm across the flat part of the nut the ones I got but don't fit the wheel carrier , sorry for the vague description
Sounds like your wheel nuts should be M16 but the carrier may be BSF thread.
For some reason the back are different from the front, but yes they just don't quite fit
Quote from: Bigdog on Apr 10, 2024, 04:55 PMFor some reason the back are different from the front, but yes they just don't quite fit
Mine are different as well.
Quote from: Bigdog on Apr 10, 2024, 04:55 PMFor some reason the back are different from the front, but yes they just don't quite fit
Quote from: Bigdog on Apr 10, 2024, 04:55 PMFor some reason the back are different from the front, but yes they just don't quite fit
Sounds like you've had some hubs replaced at some point with the M16 stud versions.
Wheel Nuts.jpg
Spare wheel carriers off course come in both varieties too.
The rear door carrier on my 1967 SW is the same as the wheel studs, BSF thread so the same wheel wrench and wheel nuts, single taper on my one, fit the wheel studs as well as the back door.
They changed the rear door carriers to the M16 threads as well when the wheel studs changed.
Think you need to get the calipers and thread gauges out to determine what size they are.
Craig.
Hi,
Last time I looked, S3 nuts are 16mm (just confirmed by Diffwhine, above).
I think that at that time, a complete hub (from Craddock I think) was about £120. Ouch! .... but that included new bearings and 16M studs, but I can't remember if the nuts came too.
OK, that hurts. But so will losing a wheel! And if you lose one wheel, will you trust the other three?
I had one Landy that creaked on corners. Investigation revealed that only two, adjacent nuts could be tightened. The other three studs were almost capable of being turned by my fingers.
Further investigation revealed that a PO had tack-welded the studs, but they had continued to be turnable, with the blobs of weld carving their way through the threads in the hubs.
I have drilled early hubs from 9/16" (threaded) to 9/16" (clearance) using a hand-held Dead & Blacker, and used sacrificial 16M nuts to pull the studs in. Perhaps I should have checked the size the factory drilled their hubs? There was also the matter of how perpendicular I managed to hold my B&D.
OK, it did the job, but I will not claim to be truly happy. Next time, I will ask my local engine shop how much they will charge to precision bore the five holes.
Hmmm! I wonder how many reported accidents have resulted from wheels literally falling off?
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Thankfully Series 2A/3 Hubs are quite cheap now (£47 from Paddock and even less with the S2C discount), so its less painful to replace hubs than it once was.
Hi Alan,
Thanks for that information, but too late for me ....
... I think my brand new Hyundai (electric) Kona will be my last. I think my own charging point (£750ish to install) was the deciding factor.
The Kona pulls liker a train, and has a 750kg unbraked trailer weight. I have not yet seen how it is affecting our domestic electricity bills.
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