Voltage stabiliser

[Bigdog]

Just double checking I was seeing it correctly, thanks

[Bigdog]

Also just remembered that I got a new gauge that had the correct fittings on the back so I will try and take a picture tomorrow as it would be good to get the temperature working etc

[Bigdog]

Found pictures of my replacement dial, hope it doesn't change things

[Herald1360]

Well, all those gauges look like electrical ones, though one of them appears to have screw terminals rather than spade terminals. It's not possible to tell which one it is from the rear view though.
Whether all is now well will depend on what's at the engine end- if there are electrical water and oil  temperature senders you're probably OK but if the senders are capillary bulb water and oil temperature senders (as required for the cut off pipe (capillary tube) original gauges) you'll need to source the appropriate electrical ones instead.

Good luck!

[Wittsend]

To work those gauges you are going to need 2 electrical temperature sensors ...



Your problem is that no two sensors seem to give the same readings 
You are more than likely going to need an adaptor piece to fit the electrical sensor(s) to the engine.



Whilst you can "fine tune" the gauges they are never meant to be super accurate in their readings.


The same sensor is/can be used for both water and oil.
Another problem you might/will have is that if the MoD oil cooler has been removed, then so has where the oil temp sensor goes 
You will have to find another place to fit the oil sensor - the sump or more practically a "T" in the top of the oil filter housing.

To be fair an oil temp gauge is somewhat overkill on a civvy use vehicle. The oil temp was for FFR vehicles when stationary running to charge the batteries up.
Not much help on a normal vehicle. On mine the oil hardly ever gets "hot".

[Bigdog]

I think the fuel gauge is now working, I have temporarily wired it up to check it, what happens regarding the twin tank set up do I piggy back a connection from my fuel sender wire in the picture, remember the joint is temporary

[Wittsend]

Ah ha ... another can of worms opens

(some) Army/MoD vehicles had twin fuel tanks (10 gallons) under each front seat.

There is a change-over valve in the driver's footwell, above the dip switch.

This change-over valve does 2 things.
1) it changes the fuel feed from either tank to the fuel pump.
2) it has an electrical switch for each tank to connect which ever tank is in use to the fuel gauge on the dash.
Each tank having its own tank sender.

These change-over valves are not cheap. After many years of being idle, the cork seal on the shaft will have dried out/perished and it will leak petrol. IIRC the Ferguson tractors used the same cork seal.










Your change-over valve may well be missing, but you should see the tell-tale hole for the lever.

[diffwhine]

If you need a change over valve, I have a few. Let me know.

[Bigdog]

I have the change over valve and it appears to work