Is this where the wiring loom is supposed to go?

[dpmstevens]

Got a new Richards chassis for my '66 109. It's a pattern design, not the replica, so it's got a few differences to the original, one of which appears to be the two holes on top of the main rail for the rear wiring loom to pass through.

But it does have four holes, two on either side of the main rail, the same size as the original holes, and in roughly the same place - they're just not on top of the rail but on the sides.

Is this a later version of the same thing? Or do I need to cut a new hole in the top? And why are there four holes?

Cheers
Dan

[Craig T]

I would say they are holes to allow venting when it's dipped in molten zinc for the galvanising process.
If they are the right diameter however for the grommets and the loom is long enough to reach, I would use them to save drilling through the nice new chassis frame.

Craig.

[dpmstevens]

Ah, right. That might explain why there's a hole on either side. I don't want to cut a hole through the galvanising but I need to check the loom length.

On a different note, it's slightly annoying you don't get the holes for the wiring as I don't know what you'd do with the loom if it's not going inside the chassis. I was under the impression all Series vehicles run the rear loom through the chassis – seems odd for a chassis maker not to provide for this. 

[Gareth]

Yes use the holes. It's just a route to get the loom to the back. It's irrelevant whether you have holes on top or in the side.

It's easier to use side entry holes than top entry when the body is on. So if ever you need to work on it in the future it may benefit you.

Obviously anyone wanting originality and perfection should scroll on by ....

[dpmstevens]

Thanks Gareth. Doesn't matter too much to me where the holes are, as long as the cables are long enough.

[dpmstevens]

So it turns out the holes in the side of the chassis are not suitable. The loom isn't long enough.

Which means I have to cut two 32mm holes in my galvanised chassis. Why doesn't Richards cut these holes? Where else do they expect you to put the loom?

[Wittsend]

Not original ... but some prefer to strap/cable tie the rearward loom to the chassis rail.

It does seem a shame to drill holes in the brand new chassis, but I can tell you no chassis ever rusted away to dust because of the loom access holes.

 

[Uffddd]

So it turns out the holes in the side of the chassis are not suitable. The loom isn't long enough.

Which means I have to cut two 32mm holes in my galvanised chassis. Why doesn't Richards cut these holes? Where else do they expect you to put the loom?

There are big rubber grommets to go around the loom where it enters and exits the chassis, grease it up around the hole and it'll never rust.

[dpmstevens]

It's more the principle of the thing. Pay a lot of money for a chassis, then cut holes in it. Anyway, I'll have a go with the hole saw and see if I can get it to work.

[nathanglasgow]

Didn't have any probs running my loom through the chassis on my Richards 109 chassis. Used the side holes no problems. Plenty length on the rear loom. Are you using the original loom or a new one?

[dpmstevens]

Didn't have any probs running my loom through the chassis on my Richards 109 chassis. Used the side holes no problems. Plenty length on the rear loom. Are you using the original loom or a new one?

Interesting. It's a new loom, and it doesn't seem to have enough length at the bulkhead end to reach the connectors. I will have another look tonight. Thanks for the info!

[nathanglasgow]

My loom was a new Autosparks one.

[Noddy]

The chassis looks the same as mine so if it's right is the loom wrong? If its too short is it for a SWB?

Alec

[dpmstevens]

Definitely  too short, but definitely for a 109. I cut the hole, which required chain drilling as the hole cutter kept breaking pilot bits. It's done now and with the grommet on it will look fine.