Oil Pressure Gauge T Piece.

[John]

You'd be going some to fatigue/break these T-pieces ^^^ even allowing for we're talking about fitting to a Land Rover engine 

Mine broke on the brass threaded part of the T section where it joins the engine block, my sender unit was a lot larger than the one in your picture, perhaps senders have got lighter than those in the 1980's

[g6anz]

Mines been on for years. An untold number, and so far no problems

[Uffddd]

Originally I wrote 'boiling'. Should have written 'hot'. Correction, optimum temp for oil is 85°.

Edited to say 85°. 85° won't be pleasant. On a hot day, under load expect to exceed 85°.

I've still got oil down the back of the dash/ bulkhead. Fortunately joint went after about 10-15 mins running. At least things won't go rusty?

Sensible installs only.

Since the oil isn't being circulated up the capillary to the gauge the oil in the pipe will never reach the same temperature as the engine when running. It'll end up roughly the same temperature as the ambient air in the engine bay, probably about 45/50 odd degrees when idling stationary.

My main worry about the mechanical gauge was relying on a plastic pipe that's just a push fit onto a spigot to hold the oil pressure but the system has been tested for long enough that it must be fine...

[Wittsend]

Anyone who's that worried can use a copper capillary tube for the oil pressure gauge

For example:-
Copper capillary tube for pressure gauge

[Uffddd]

Then my worry was the copper pipe running from wobbly engine to differently vibrating bulkhead, leading to fatigue and cracks and oil everywhere.

I should stop thinking so much probably. There is no winning.

I went for plastic push fitting pipes.

[autorover1]

I had copper line break and emptied most of the sump oil  all over the engine compartment, fortunately I stopped before any damage done.

[Wittsend]

You are supposed to put a few turns of a coil into the pipe, about 3" diameter should do it.

A rattle can makes a good former.


 

[autorover1]

I did, but it was probably not supported enough where it went into the engine union. I changed it to the reinforced steel wrapped hose, similar to the LR offering 

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

Since the oil isn't being circulated up the capillary to the gauge the oil in the pipe will never reach the same temperature as the engine when running. It'll end up roughly the same temperature as the ambient air in the engine bay, probably about 45/50 odd degrees when idling stationary.

We might have our wires crossed over temperature-gauge or pressure-gauge. OP was asking of pressure.

For the bad PR implications alone, I suspect pipes to dash-mount oil-pressure gauges only had to fail rarely  for makers to consider a re-design wiser.

[LowOil]

I went electric after the copper tube shorted the coil and welded (brazed?) itself shut - be careful to route any metal tubes away from any exposed electrics - and try not to have any exposed electrics!

[g6anz]

If the capillary tube does fracture then the gauge would read 0 PSI. This will be a cause for concern and the engine should be stopped immediately. I had my electric gauge suddenly read 0PSI, so I switched off the engine and had a think. The warning light had not come on and there were no odd noises or oil over the engine bay. On turning on the ignition the pressure light did not come on investigation showed a bad connection at the fuse box. Repaired and the gauge read correctly again.

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

Depends on personal preference. Me? New gauges look wrong in my eyes, this, if you like your old LR to look old.

Whereas many of you like your LR to look new; if this is you, gauge choice gets far easier, just buy new.

If you share my preference this presents a problem:

If you're after a more battle-worn/period look you're forced to go mechanical. I like the chrome bezel gauges Smiths made pre-1970s. Sometime late 60s/early 70s Smiths/Jaeger went to matt black/ 70s oranges and reds. Gauges went electrical too. Smiths gauges are still made, only not the mech. styles.

If you do go used 'electrical', used 'electrical' gauges are plentiful enough. Problem is there's a plethora of senders/sensors which MAY or MAY NOT match. Used gauges won't often come with a correct sensor/sender match. You've got some homework to get matched senders.

Search for:  A-Gentlemans-guide-to-Smiths-gauges.

It's been linked in the other gauge thread by Wittsend.

[Wittsend]

Classic Smiths gauges - both mechanical and electrical are available new from suppliers like Merlin Motorsport and from other good sport and rally shop suppliers.
They look good and period 

... or you could take a punt on eBay for a 2nd gauge(s)

There is no need to go "modern" with VDO or digital type gauges, if you don't want to.
Your Land Rover - fit whatever you like the look of.

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

Yes, that's it there. Depends on your preference and application. As Wittend says, Merlin don't run older style chrome-bezel gauges in many variants new. And those you can get tend to look 70s, this over 50s, 60s. heavier bezels etc. You're forced down the eBay and  take a punt route. And VDO stuff looks awful.