Engine identity

[DickB]

Any ideas about what engine I have? It is definitely not the original as it only has the one breather mounted on the rocker cover and a breather pipe from rocker cover breather to the carb. It is a petrol four cylinder with a red block.

Could it be a later motor from a s3 or a later 2a? My LR is a SWB from 1966.

[Craig T]

Need to know the engine number to make a firm ID but it sounds like a late series 3 five bearing engine or an early 2.5 litre engine from a 90 or 110

The engine number should be stamped into the block in front of the exhaust manifold, kind of behind the water pump area.

Craig.

[Wittsend]

Your engine number will be found here ....




 

[diffwhine]

Be aware that if it is a 2.5 engine, the number (as per later vehicles) may well be stamped on the horizontal surface above the side cover where the fuel pump sits.

[Alan Drover]

Early 2.5's like mine have the engine number in front of the manifold.
If it is a 2.5 keep it. I've been running one in my Series 3 for about 20 years and IMHO it's a better engine than the 2.26 It runs perfectly fine on the Series Zenith and manifold. 2.5 engine numbers start with 17H.
Later 5 bearing 2.3 engines were that colour .

[Exile]

It runs perfectly fine on the Series Zenith and manifold.

Now that's interesting.

I have a 2.5 petrol engine in an early Defender, and the Weber twin choke 32/34DTML carb is a total disaster (on this and the 2.25 Ninety and One Ten petrol engines).

I didn't know that a 2.25 manifold would fit, as you cannot fit a Zenith to the original 2.5 manifold.

Cue search for 4 manifolds- albeit I don't know if it works out cheaper than 4 conversion plates.

[Alan Drover]

It's a straight fit and I use a full length gasket not the two bit one. The Zenith is jetted for the 2.25 but no evidence of a weak mixture. At the last recent plug change all 4 were a brick red colour.
The Zenith was remanufactured by BFS about 12 years ago. Once set up the only adjustments have been to the tickover speed. The correct 2.5 distributor,, rebuilt by the Doctor about the same time and fitted with Pertronix electronic ignition after setting up has needed only the occasional drop of oil anf  a new cap because the carbon brush had worn down.

[DickB]

Thanks everyone. I am going to crawl around later and have a look , once the rain has stopped. The old thing is a bit of a mishmash - a "bitsa" I think they call it. Hinges are wrong, mirrors are wrong etc.

Incidentally, will S2 hinges replace later hinges? Or do the doors have to be replaced also?

It has an electronic ignition (which works well). It was once converted to run of gas (LPG) which has now been removed -it wasn't working when I purchased it and was  already disconnected.

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

Terracotta? Um... if you're lucky or unlucky dependent on your standpoint it's a 2.5 17H.

In my mind, if it is, you've hit the jackpot - it's the one and only. Lucky you. Others will tell you to rip it out this minute.

The fact it was gassed is a big clue. That was the ideal 'gasser' engine. Still is if you can get to such things.

[diffwhine]

Judging by the colour, its a 5 bearing engine. The engine number will confirm the rest.

Whether your door hinges will fit will depend on whether you have the original pillars and captives in the pillars. If the pillar has been replaced with off the shelf ones suitable for Series or Defender L316, then they may have used the later spring fixings. These tend to foul with most S2/2A hinges unless the backs are recessed. Some later hinges had recesses which prevents this foul condition. No problem door side - its the pillar side which could give you problems.

[DickB]

Thanks again to all for the information.

The vehicle has a Webber carb. Still cannot locate number but the picture from nobeard looks like it should be easy to see. The other number stamped number (if it's a 2 1/4) i am guessing is obscured by parts attached to the engine!

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

If there's no number where I indicate it's less likely to be any 17H. Hold out hope for a 11H. Either way, unless you're inclined to a purist persuasion getting things to run LPG won't be hard. If you've LPG filling near you, see it on gas in a heartbeat. It won't be much, it's simpler than petrol. If it's all there, worse case is:

1) A new vapouriser diaphragm £25 (OMVL R90E?)
2) A new LPG switch £20.
3) A few bits of wire and fresh tube. £20

£65ish at the outside, I'd think less. You'll have that as a ROI after one to two tanks of petrol.

[Alan Drover]

Early 2.5 engines have the number vertically near the front of the exhaust manifold which is where my 17H number is

[Alan Drover]

Thanks again to all for the information.

The vehicle has a Webber carb.

The 2.5 was fitted originally with a twin choke Weber. Is this what is fitted or is it one of those aftermarket economy kit microscopic Webers? If the latter and it's a 2.5 the carburettor is far too small for that engine and there will be much reduced performance.