V8 conversion

[JohnR2]

I'm gathering information on conversion to V8 and have some questions:
i've seen 2 types of engine to series gearbox adaptor plates, one a cast item about 2-3" deep and the other a (plasma cut?) flat steel plate. I understand that keeping the engine/gearbox unit as short as possible is key to keeping the grille panel in the original position so presumably the latter adaptor is best?
Also is it correct that the latest versions of the series 11a gearbox are the strongest?
With regard to half shafts I have seen reference to 24 spline versions, do these(and the appropriate diffs to accept them?) fit in any back axle?
To keep the engine short I presume I'll need a similar front cover and water pump to the ones on the '83 3.5 I had in my cobra?
   

[diffwhine]

I can't comment on the conversion kit, but with regard to the gearbox, it ideally should be a suffix C onwards gearbox. That's the one where they deleted the split rings retaining the layshaft gears at the rear. It also should have the 36 tooth transfer box gear wheel.

The critical bit will be to build it with quality bearings and get the end floats on the main shaft absolutely spot on. If driven sensibly it shouldn't give you problems.

[Craig T]

I don't think a flat plate conversion ring would work with a Land Rover bellhousing as it wouldn't be deep enough. The conversion ring I used was a cast aluminium one made by Milner or Philips. I fitted it to a series 3 so I used the SD1 flywheel, SD1 clutch cover with a Land Rover clutch plate. You needed to cut the back of the crankshaft off as well removing the spigot bush then using a bolted on spigot bush holder under the flywheel bolts.

Don't worry about the axles, the standard Rover ones are fine unless you drive it in a silly manner. You can always replace them at a later date anyway so try as they are first.

Uprating the brakes isn't a bad idea although not 100% essential as long as your standard brakes are in good shape. I fitted 109" front brakes, moved the front 88" wheel cylinders to the rear and fitted a servo from a 109" series 3. Easy on a series 3 as the wing panel was made for a servo, series 2's require the wing to be chopped about.

My engine was an SD1 engine and I used the SD1 water pump, timing cover, alternator etc. All fitted fine so long as you remove the thread from the front of the water pump and fit an electric fan. This has all been transplanted onto the 4.6 block now and still working fine.

Personally I wouldn't convert another one. Series 2's are becoming more collectable now and chopping another one up seems a shame in many ways. Maybe you can find a V8 one already done to rebuild and repair the previous bodges. If I wanted a V8 Land Rover I'd be after a stage one V8.

Craig.

[JohnR2]

I don't think a flat plate conversion ring would work with a Land Rover bellhousing as it wouldn't be deep enough. The conversion ring I used was a cast aluminium one made by Milner or Philips. I fitted it to a series 3 so I used the SD1 flywheel, SD1 clutch cover with a Land Rover clutch plate. You needed to cut the back of the crankshaft off as well removing the spigot bush then using a bolted on spigot bush holder under the flywheel bolts.

Don't worry about the axles, the standard Rover ones are fine unless you drive it in a silly manner. You can always replace them at a later date anyway so try as they are first.

Uprating the brakes isn't a bad idea although not 100% essential as long as your standard brakes are in good shape. I fitted 109" front brakes, moved the front 88" wheel cylinders to the rear and fitted a servo from a 109" series 3. Easy on a series 3 as the wing panel was made for a servo, series 2's require the wing to be chopped about.

My engine was an SD1 engine and I used the SD1 water pump, timing cover, alternator etc. All fitted fine so long as you remove the thread from the front of the water pump and fit an electric fan. This has all been transplanted onto the 4.6 block now and still working fine.

Personally I wouldn't convert another one. Series 2's are becoming more collectable now and chopping another one up seems a shame in many ways. Maybe you can find a V8 one already done to rebuild and repair the previous bodges. If I wanted a V8 Land Rover I'd be after a stage one V8.

Craig.

Ok that's useful information. I'm not 100% committed to a V8 conversion, although I do have a 3.9 engine. Perhaps if the vehicle I buy has it's original engine I may be inclined to stick with it (would probably be cheaper!)

[Adam1958]

Hi.

Go on... go for it. A series 2 with a V8 is a cracking smile-machine. With Range Rover diffs in it you get a nice easy going drive that's leggy enough to be relaxing and still has grunt to spare for... the smiles.

[JohnR2]

Hi.

Go on... go for it. A series 2 with a V8 is a cracking smile-machine. With Range Rover diffs in it you get a nice easy going drive that's leggy enough to be relaxing and still has grunt to spare for... the smiles.

I must admit it was the thought of putting a V8 in that got me thinking about a foray into landy ownership! miss that sound!

[Adam1958]

Hi.

Go on... go for it. A series 2 with a V8 is a cracking smile-machine. With Range Rover diffs in it you get a nice easy going drive that's leggy enough to be relaxing and still has grunt to spare for... the smiles.

I must admit it was the thought of putting a V8 in that got me thinking about a foray into landy ownership! miss that sound!

You might get a few people saying it's not original, it's thirsty etc etc. For me the noise and extra go makes the landy more fun and more useable, the fuel cost I couldn't give a monkeys about, it's a weekend toy that doesn't do huge mileage so 13mpg equates to very little expense vs the general ownership costs. As for originality, mine has some really lovely early features that are all still there, but the paint and panels are such a horror show that I think it's not a big deal. I don't feel like I shot the last dodo.

[JohnR2]

I understand that there are two types of starter motor - the earlier one with the solenoid below the motor and the later with it to the side. What are the considerations with regard to exhaust / chassis rail clearance between the different types?

[ChrisJC]

The shortest engine is from the P38 Range Rover. This is because there is no distributor. It is entirely possible to have even the latest P38 Rangie engine run 'stand alone' in a Series Landie.

For the starter, you do need the 4x4 type (I can't remember which one is which though!!), or I used the later hi torque one from a P38 which is smaller.

Provided you fit exhaust manifolds from a Range Rover Classic or Discovery 1, they'll clear the chassis. You'll have to make up the bits from the manifold rearwards though.

I machined up a spigot bush to suit, but I was going onto an R380 rather than a Series 'box.

You can't beat a V8 in a Series II with a recessed radiator grille...

Chris.

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

If you're not set to a V8, consider this...

I had a V8 for a while, with exception of a 2.6 sixer I've had them all. Even a Tdious. Currently run 2.8 17H 5MB ACR. My 2.8 gives low-level V8 power. And when I say I've had them all, not weekend pose, I mean 'drive'. Live with it.

If you're minded to resell at some point, the 2.8 leaves things less 'mess-with' and classic, very in character. This I like. For a toy I'd run the V8, for a daily the 2.8. Done right, the 2.8 will be dearer by roughly £500-1000, yet the 2.8 is easier to do - it truly does *just* drop in. The V8 does not. With little effort, the V8 can be made to well exceed the 2.8 and if your heart says that'd be what you want, fine. Do it.

Me? For daily use, right now in Feb, I don't need more power than I have. I run 4 x discs, and still. frankly tyres, handling, steering etc are not up to more. I like to waft up hills, not go faster per se. But that's personal to me.

On the surface the others tend to look a good idea; I've found they might impress for five minutes, yet don't really work when it's 'long-game'. It's why you see them on eBay.

In my deluded mind, the connoisseur, real 'live with it' choice is...

https://www.900club.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1637



A 17H.

[Craig T]

I used the SD1 starter motor with mine, solenoid hangs below the motor. It all fitted fine, never hit the propshaft anyway.

I have a pair of the cast, centre exit, single pipe manifolds hanging around the garage. When we changed to a 4.6 we went for MGB tubular stainless block hugger manifolds for a less restrictive system.

Craig.

[Adam1958]

I used the SD1 starter motor with mine, solenoid hangs below the motor. It all fitted fine, never hit the propshaft anyway.

I have a pair of the cast, centre exit, single pipe manifolds hanging around the garage. When we changed to a 4.6 we went for MGB tubular stainless block hugger manifolds for a less restrictive system.

Craig.

Hi. Any chance you can post a picture of the mgb headers? I've been toying with that idea for a while.

[Craig T]

I'll ask the owner what he has on record and get back to you.

Craig.

[KingFishMDT]

I don't think a flat plate conversion ring would work with a Land Rover bellhousing as it wouldn't be deep enough. The conversion ring I used was a cast aluminium one made by Milner or Philips. I fitted it to a series 3 so I used the SD1 flywheel, SD1 clutch cover with a Land Rover clutch plate. You needed to cut the back of the crankshaft off as well removing the spigot bush then using a bolted on spigot bush holder under the flywheel bolts.

Don't worry about the axles, the standard Rover ones are fine unless you drive it in a silly manner. You can always replace them at a later date anyway so try as they are first.

Uprating the brakes isn't a bad idea although not 100% essential as long as your standard brakes are in good shape. I fitted 109" front brakes, moved the front 88" wheel cylinders to the rear and fitted a servo from a 109" series 3. Easy on a series 3 as the wing panel was made for a servo, series 2's require the wing to be chopped about.

My engine was an SD1 engine and I used the SD1 water pump, timing cover, alternator etc. All fitted fine so long as you remove the thread from the front of the water pump and fit an electric fan. This has all been transplanted onto the 4.6 block now and still working fine.

Personally I wouldn't convert another one. Series 2's are becoming more collectable now and chopping another one up seems a shame in many ways. Maybe you can find a V8 one already done to rebuild and repair the previous bodges. If I wanted a V8 Land Rover I'd be after a stage one V8.

Craig.

How does the series box handle the 4.6? I have a TVR spec 5.0 which is way over kill for a v8 conversion but am thinking of destroking it back to the original 4.0!

[ChrisJC]

I used the SD1 starter motor with mine, solenoid hangs below the motor. It all fitted fine, never hit the propshaft anyway.

I have a pair of the cast, centre exit, single pipe manifolds hanging around the garage. When we changed to a 4.6 we went for MGB tubular stainless block hugger manifolds for a less restrictive system.

Craig.

Hi. Any chance you can post a picture of the mgb headers? I've been toying with that idea for a while.

Cast Iron manifolds are much much quieter than tubular ones. And that matters in something like a Series without any sound insulation.

The optimum solution is the EFi (twin outlet) manifolds from a Discovery or Range Rover classic.

Chris.