What you did with your Series 2 in June

Started by Wittsend, May 31, 2024, 11:52 PM

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Ken

Tried to include a photo but it didn't work. I should stick to playing with cars !

simonbav

#91
With all the talk of Milliput and refurbished steering wheels I thought I'd give mine a go. It has suffered badly from my neglect and moisture's ingress through the existing cracks had delaminated a three inch section beside all the spokes.

My own brand Woolworths Dremmel made short work of the rim material and I rust treated the exposed metal before experimenting with primary layers of black Milliput firmly forced into the cracks and moulded into an approximation of the final form.

1960 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon

Kev

#92
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Youtube: kevlandy
Instagram: leo_sprayer
Fakebook: Alston Moor

Seanlandy

Finally got around to putting steering box back together. Now, to have a look at the relay, drag link ball joints and then reassembly. Soon I hope.

Andrew

... Going to make an attempt to lift this engine out today ... Its all worn out, like me.
Andrew

nathanglasgow

Hey Andrew if you need a hand give me a shout. Free most days next week. Nathan

Daisythelandie

Hope it all goes well Andrew, been there done that, twice, first time restoring the vehicle then again twenty five years later replacing the chassis. Fortunately I could borrow a friends crane for as long as I needed it.

Dave
fae Glasgow.
Dave & Daisy the Landy, 31 years of ownership and still smiling.

Adstock

Took OOT to bits, changed the master brake master cylinder and freed up the brake pedal pivot which was seizing up. Changed the lower OSF brake cylinder as it was weeping, adjust hit the adjusters.
You cannot view this attachment.
I then bled the brake system and tested the brakes.
I then bled the brake system and tested the brakes.
I then bled the brake system and tested the brakes.
I then bled the brake system and tested the brakes.
FFS - Why are series 2 brake systems so hard to bleed......

Then I noted that I had lost a wheel stud & nut from OSR and when checking the rest found that only 2 of the 5 would take an real torque, so back onto the great team at Dingocroft, new hub, bearings, seals etc when then installed.
For good measure I decided to remove 2 of the brake adjusters and the front and put replacement ones in, so once changes and adjusted,
You cannot view this attachment.
I then bled the brake system and tested the brakes.
I then bled the brake system and tested the brakes.
FFS - Why are series 2 brake systems so hard to bleed......

I might have had some snacks......
You cannot view this attachment.

simonbav

#98
I refitted my choke panel and recently acquired and overhauled choke mechanism today and need more sheradized 2BA bolts from LROE. I adapted the existing Weber's choke cable bracket to suit what I imagine is a slightly shortened standard cable, then added more Milliput to my steering wheel ahead of shaping it next Friday and probably another layer of putty. By 'eck, it's good stuff.

I started to refurb my wiring loom yesterday, soldered on a new bullet connector and hockey taped and shrink tubed part of the front indicator circuit. I've some rubber connectors on order and dielectric grease for adding other bullets where previous repairs were simply male and female spade connectors. There's some surplus wiring to remove from the main loom, or reintegrate to it's original purpose. I've not been near it with a tester yet but that'll come. It's the original loom and was doing just fine last time it was running.

P.s. any ideas on keeping the red dash lamp lens in place (apart from glue)? It seems the black tags on the rear need splaying out more. If it's thermo-seting plastic it'll be easy enough to sort.
1960 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon

Adam1958

Took the Willy's jeep out for a bit of green lane action. Don't tell the S2.

Andrew

Got the thing out, after some faffing. I knew it was tight round the back, but I thought I'd got a neat arrangement with the original lifting bracket and the chains. Turns out there isn't enough room because when you lift it to get the mountings out, the chains foul on the big throttle rod. So that had to come out while the mountings were already loose, which is an awkward job for 1 because the 4 wee bolts have nuts inside the cab, no way to reach around and work nut and bolt at the same time. Then, the book also doesn't tell you that the exhaust downpipe will become entangled with the starter motor when you start the lift and pull forwards, causing everything to become wedged. I'll be taking that first exhaust pipe section off before attempting to fit the replacement engine.

My monoblock leanto is on a slight downward slope (to the vehicle rear) so I used a chain hoist attached to my car towing hitch to pull the engine forwards very slowly.

I suspect my vehicle started out with a 2 litre petrol, and I think this 2.25 engine has a been a service upgrade sometime in the ?late 60s?early 70s? It has an "S" service suffix gearbox, which I suspect went in at the same time. I never touched the inside of this engine, since purchasing the vehicle in 1988. It's tired all over, but never stopped me completing a journey (nor has any of the rest of the vehicle, although there have been some clutchless and gearless journeys, and some with front wheel drive only). I notice now that the water pump bearing must be completely finished as the fan can be wobbled. Couldn't notice anything, or any leaks, while driving. Maybe dodged an incident there.

Andrew

Craig T

Went to a very posh polo event at Cowdray Park.

Craig.

S2c-08543

Got it finished, back on the road, and MOTd.  800 hours since digging it out of the wood.

Spike68

Met a few Land Rovers at a coffee meet