To waxoyl or not!

[W.Slow]

What's the collective wisdom on my predicament-
So Im on the home straight with my overhaul on my 1963 swb. I repaired my original chassis last Christmas and then sent it out to be blasted and painted in the spring (In hindsight I probably should have investigated getting it dipped and galvanised but that's my stupidity!!)

When I was repairing the chassis I was pleasantly surprised to find remnants of paint on the inside, the chassis was in fairly good nick, in fact I was mainly making good other peoples ideas of repair's (body filler!!).

Obviously having it blasted has done nothing to the inside except from filling it up with a load of grit! ideally I want to remove as much rubbish from inside as possible and then get some form of protection up it- however I should of thought about this in the summer as it's now cold and my fear of running a pressure washer up the currently bone dry box sections interiors fill me with dread!!
Also if I use the tin of waxoyl that I have it'll take me an age to "defrost" it.

The vehicle lives in an uninsulated lockup, it is running and driving around the yard currently without any bodywork.

So am I overthinking it:
shall I just wheel it outside on steepest incline and pressure wash the insides out- let it dry out for as long as possible and then cavity wax. (Ambient temprature and waxoyl not being very compatible!)

Should I just cavity wax it as stands.

Or shall I gaffer tape the holes in the chassis up (just to minimise stuff getting in) get it back on the road, use it and plan in the summer to wash the chassis through and cavity wax once the sun and general warmth has dried it out.

I'm leaning towards this train of thought, I'm not planning on doing any serious stuff with it until I have sealed the inside, it'll be a "daily" but not going mud plugging if you get my meaning.

This may seem a stupid idea so please do say so but if I was to go with the last option could I stick some gravel in the box section and let that sort of dislodge any stubborn bits inside whilst it's driving around??

Any how, any ideas and wisdom greatly received
William

(p.s. I've said waxoyl as I have a tin I purchased ages ago- however if people suggest alternatives I will consider.)

 

[Alan Drover]

For cavity waxing Waxoyl isn't the best. Take a look at Bilt Hamber website. I think theirs is much better.
In any case it's pointless doing anything this time of year. Dry sunny weather is far more suitable.

[Peter Holden]

My personal choice. Is lanoguard or lanoshield, they are actually easier to apply but need doing more often

Peter

[simonbav]

Akin to Alan above, I wouldn't be going anywhere near the chassis with water in winter. Just leave whatever you do to the dry summer. I thinned copious quantities of Waxoyl I had and flushed it backwards and forwards in the chassis rails and box sections, flipping it, rolling it etc from a gantry while it was still bare, in the summer weather, once repairs were entirely complete.

[Rusty66]

There's better stuff than Waxoil like e.g. from Dinitrol that creeps under the rust. They have two different numbers (which I'd need to look up), one you use first to creep under any rust and grit and then another waxy mixture to apply a couple of days later. Lanoguard and to an extent also Dinitrol wash off, but inside a chassis that's not such a problem. The Swiss army uses Dinitrol and they salt their roads in winter, so it should, be up to it.

As has been said, water this time of year makes no sense. But what about using pressurized air to dislodge and drive out the grit? There are "tornado" nozzles for airlines.  Dinitrol will also creep under the grit from sandblasting. As will TimeMax and  Mike Sanders, which might probably only be available in Germany, to a lesser extent, but they are usually winning the tests over here.

There are plenty of videos on YouTube and the like that will show you application and pros and cons. There is no consensus what is best, I think, but any protection is better than none. Even Waxoil which, if you read around, is one of the lesser favoured rust inhibitors. There might be other aspects to consider, for example Mike Sanders that I used for my Defenders in the past got liquid in summer and dripped all over the drive for the first couple of years. Yet, the 1998 Defender is still going strong with no visible rust to chassis and bulkhead. You might also need special pressure spraying equipment and heat some of the substances up. This in my experience, however, is worth investing in (or borrowing if you can).

You can also get a cheap video probe to inspect the inside of the chassis and see how bad the grit actually is and also about rust, as often the chassis rusts out from the inside.

[diffwhine]

I would agree 100% with the points raised about timing. The chassis ideally needs to be clean and dry before any of this is done or you risk trapping moisture which makes matters worse.

Land Rover specified Dinitrol for high corrosion risk applications and I think ultimately it is the best solution. I've used it on Defenders in extreme mining applications where vehicle are operating in a constant wash of high saline and laterite slurry and the results have been very impressive. It's not that environmentally friendly and is expensive to use. Ideally you need the professional applicator spray system (a bit more that a Schultz gun) or have it done professionally. They do offer an aerosol application system through the UK agents - Rejel which works well for DIY and easier to apply. It's marginally more expensive than the spray kits.

https://rejel.com/

Having used Lanoguard a lot recently, that would be my preferred DIY choice. Just wait for those hot summer days.

[Peter Holden]

I actually keep some lanoshield (same as lanoguard) in a small pump up spray.  On any of our vehicles, besides their annual treatment, they get a quick spray onto any area underneath that happens to be in the vicinity of where I am working

[Rusty66]

I use a similar product like Lanoguard (Fluidfilm, made off the sheep stuff) to refresh areas that are exposed to road spray etc. The only downside is that it washes off fairly quickly so needs to be reapplied regularly. The good thing is that it is very easy to apply on a diy basis.