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Chassis number

Started by Bigdog, Sep 04, 2023, 07:22 PM

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Bigdog

What happens to the chassis number if you need to renew the front dumb irons, do I keep the old dumb iron with the vehicle for proof etc

Birdsnest55

You can stamp the number on the dumb iron, best to keep the original if you can

Paul
1965 109" 200TDi with a 5 speed gearbox and 3.54 diffs.

Wittsend

#2
If you replace the front dumb iron driver's side then our best current advice is to stamp the dumb iron - or indeed the dumb iron on a new chassis with the number.

There is no legal requirement to do this.

BUT, I will help should the authorities ever decide to inspect your vehicle (or if it's stolen or in a bad accident). It just makes life easier if you have the correct number in the expected place.
The number need not be the exact font/size as the original, thought here are people in the club with the correct set of stamps.

Here's how it did mine a while back ...



Access is obviously restricted on a built-up vehicle.

Keep the old dumb iron, even if you can't see the OE number.

 :RHD

Bigdog

I will show some pictures tomorrow, might be able to repair them, thanks

Serious Series

I've yet to do mine fitted new chassis in 2010 advice at the time was just keep the purchase receipt for the new one.
Have a set of number and letter stamps and have tried stamping a piece of steel as a sample and even though I was a pit trained apprentice with lots of mechanical training amonx my electrical training cannot get an even result from the stamps .
It looks to me that the stamps are too rounded have searched for any with a different profile to no avail.
Thed letters ar RS components who's kit is usually good the numbers where an internet purchase.
Both sets are 6mm size.
Have a good range of hammers and tried them all with the steel in a vioce strikng downward , think I will have even less li=uck on the vertical side of my dumb iron.

Craig T

It can be tricky to get a decent result on a dumb iron that has a certain amount of bounce to it.
The last one I did, I used a bit of wood as a guide as shown above and used a heavy, ballpein hammer to hit the stamps. I found the number 1 was easy to get a good impression as it has the smallest surface area, numbers like 8 need a fair hit to get them to imprint.
It is possible, if you are careful, to realign the stamp and hit it again but it can all go wrong if you are slightly out of position.

For the number on my series one I stamped a new rear spring hanger on an anvil so there was no bounce, that was easy and it was only one piece of steel thick, not on the side of a box section.

The original numbers were not perfect however so don't be too concerned with getting it laser straight.

Craig.

Wittsend

#6
Too perfect stamping would be suspicious.

You need a big hammer and you need to be firm & decisive with the blow, no pussy footing around, no tip-tap.
And keep your fingers out of the way ...
 :nurse