Oil bath filter without oil

Started by stevesharpe, Dec 19, 2023, 01:28 PM

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Wittsend

I wouldn't use old sump oil  :shakinghead  - only in a real emergency.

In desert conditions you would change the oil in the air cleaner every day.

You only need 1 pint of oil, that's not going to cost a lot ???

Saving up little dregs of old engine oil would work if you are a miser, Scrooge type.
The actual grade and additives don't really matter, but not too thick.

Old sump oil is good when mixed with diesel for "creosoting" your shed/fences. Painting on your leaf springs, wiping over tools to keep rust away. Starting bonfires (if allowed). Soaking rusty parts in, etc. etc.
1001 uses around the place.

Most Recycling Centres tips now take old engine oil.

 :oil-spill

Peter Holden

Maintaining our eurobox and both my sons vehicles we always seem to end up with clean unused engine oil left over.  I use this and I change the oil every year, it might be a bit extravagant but that oil isnt doing anything and the oil removed from the filter can be used as a rust preventative on tools and exposed bits of steel

Peter

Bradley66


Had to read that twice as I wasn't sure someone wasn't having a laugh at everyone's expense.
Assuming you're not, then leaving the oil out will have no effect on the airflow and you will have no filtering.

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Drawing air through a gauze wet with oil mist must take more energy than through a dry gauze. The question is is that significant and how sensitive is the carburetor?

Damp sails catch more wind, an old trick used by sailors in very light winds.

[/quote]

The reduction, if any , would be insignificant. Not measurable using normal means. Not really comparable with sails , the mesh is somewhat more porous than wet canvas.

Betsy1969

You would have to weigh the advantages of dampening sails against the extra weight of water , a serious consideration in lightweight racing dinghies

nathanglasgow

^^^ Only applicable to the cotton /canvas sails of old. Modern sail cloth from the 1960s ish onwards performs at its best when clean, smooth and dry. What makes me go faster is laminate racing sails. Shame they don't last long :'(

Betsy1969

I agree with laminated type sails , I had Mylar sails on either my 505 or Int 14 and they were very good.

diffwhine

I love it when this forum goes so far off topic with something interesting.

Who would have thought we could have got from running a Land Rover without an air filter (in effect), to the sails and water catchment mass reducing speed?

Every day is a learning day.
1965 2A 88" Station Wagon

nathanglasgow

What really slows me down when racing on the Clyde are those pesky paddle steamers that always seem to be in the way. My wee sailing jaolpy is 51 years old, still younger than my Landrovers tho

Larry S

Well... if you're taking to the water...
'63 SIIa 88 Station Wagon named Grover

Mpudi: So how did the land rover get up the tree?
Steyn: Do you know she has flowers on her panties?
Mpudi: So that's how it got up the tree.

NoBeardNoTopKnot

#24
If we're getting to the grit of this, both for economy and performance the intact tract on a Series LR is vastly too long. It can't work and sure enough doesn't. Then add oil-bath.

Designed in the days of cheap fuel, it both hampers power and economy. Capped off with the oil-bath it can't work. Modern practice has short intact lengths and massive surface-area paper filters, these for under a £tenner on eBay. These meet emissions and today's market demand for performance and economy - things that just weren't an issue when the Series LR was in design.

And yes, I know, mine's been there for 40 years, it works well enough, but come on... it won't matter what oil (or not) we put in there, I refuse to delude myself that it's any good. If it was, with emissions and market demand, were such things the true answer, long inlet tracts and oil-baths would be in universal use today.

Until we hear manufacturers slap their foreheads with the words  "To hell with flow-benches and computer simulation, those  blokes on the LR forums are right all along, we need to choke off our designs too - it's all a conspiracy to sell paper-elements" that'd be how it's going to stay.

Wittsend

The oil bath air cleaner has stood the test of time - 60+ years.

Many have tried to invent a better mousetrap find a replacement air cleaner and "failed".

I ran a Series Land Rover with a pancake mesh air filter for several years and with careful record keeping could not find any improvement in fuel consumption or performance. Any improvements must be in fractions of a second and a few mls of fuel saving  :shakinghead

What I did find was an increase in air intake noise  :shakinghead  and problems if trying to fit a snorkel.

My advice - as posted earlier is to retain the oil bath, fill it with oil to the correct level and check it every so often.

KISS - keep it simple ****

Series 2s are not performance racing cars  :shakinghead

NoBeardNoTopKnot

#26
Agreed. On it's own performance gains - if any - will be near nil. There's significant gains to be had, none of which are seen with a simple a carb/filter swap. Our engines are pumps, I run mine in 17H 2.8 format. When it's pulling more air, a longer tract etc, chokes it off. I had a rolling-road session recently, we tried no filter/long tract, long tract/ no filter, then nil. Nil gave 2-3bhp extra at the top end, and more torque in the middle. Not practical, but it serves the point. The LR world's blind-faith is misplaced. The filter/long tract works because it doesn't need to be better, not because it's good.

The difference is more subtle.

The oil-bath and long intakes has not stood the test of time. It's left in old tractors, the odd military application, air-handling and old LRs etc  If it had stood the test of time, it'd be in widespread automotive use today.

Exile

If it aint broke, don't fix it....

diffwhine

One of the reasons why we do not use a simple and effective oil bath system any more is because of turbo charged engines. The volume of air being drawn through a turbocharged engine is by definition significantly greater than a naturally aspirated engine of the same volume. If you run an oil bath system with a turbo diesel engine, it will in all likelihood draw all the oil bath oil into the engine in some cases, can cause the engine to fire on that oil rather than injected diesel causing a runaway.

In some the environments I run vehicles in, we are changing paper airfilters up to twice a day. That starts to get very expensive on a fleet of 200+ vehicles. When they were all oil bath filters or simple large tap out filters (Toyota), it was far cheaper to run.
1965 2A 88" Station Wagon

Oilyrag921

What I like about the oil bath is you are not shopping and ordering any parts for it, just pour in the oil,  it's so simple. I always keep things fairly standard on my two elderly vehicles unless I'm really sure I can exceed the manufacturer's performance figures.