Instrument dial

[Bigdog]

Is there anyway I can get a fitting that connects a cable to the points marked in blue, it's for my fuel and water temp gauge, if not is there anyone that refurbishes them, many thanks

[GlenAnderson]

Those are capillary gauges. Normally used for temperature, never seen one for fuel on anything post war. They're not user serviceable, and not standard Land-Rover as far as I am aware. Can we have a picture of the front of the cluster? I suspect a previous owner has been mixing and matching...

[nathanglasgow]

It's ex mil so one capillary gauge is for water temp and the other is oil temp. Craddocks sell them.

[Bigdog]

Here is the front, hopefully you can make it out, thanks

[Bigdog]

Would anyone have a picture of what the correct one should be like, thanks

[Bigdog]

Should the correct one look like this one

[O7BE16]

I believe yours is correct for a ex military Land Rover with capillary water and oil temperature gauges. It should look like this photograph. The charging light is the red light in the centre of your panel rather than being in an instrument dial segment.

[Bigdog]

Perfect, thanks

[GlenAnderson]

Sorry, didn't realise yours was ex-mil. As said, they're available at a price if originality is your main concern. They're not user serviceable though, like I said in my previous reply.

It would be cheaper, probably, to fit the electric civilian water temp segment, associated circuit and sender. Whether you then replace the oil temp with a working one when you fall over one cheaply is up to you.

[Wittsend]

Although "nice" to have oil temp doesn't really tell you much about the running of your engine.
Army vehicles (FFR) had them because they would be standing for hours with the engine running charging the radio batteries.
In which case your vehicle would have had the oil cooler and the 8-blade rad fan.
And if it were a FFR model it would have had the big rectifier thing (toast rack) in front of the rad and be running on 24V with lots of ignition suppression kit.

Pre '67 models (civvy) didn't even have a water temp gauge.

These LR engines run very cool under normal operating conditions.



 

[Noddy]

If you really want to repair the gauges watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isaCE7Jm3Z0 not the most articulate guy but the method is fairly simple. Ether is very volatile and very flammable as well as being an aneasthetic (watch Michael Caine in Cider House Rules to see what can happen). I've never actually tried it so can't endorse the method.

Alec

[Wittsend]

Ether (diethyl ether) is very volatile. Burns with an almost colourless flame.

Ether is also heavier than air. This means that it rolls along the work surface/bench, and then goes down the sink.
Back in the day great fun to put fumes down the sink and fire it off in the next lab - until H&S came along 

I would advise that you let someone who refurbishes these gauges to restore them and not try and DiY.

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

If it's originality you're after the solution won't be cheap. Bought new, likely £2-300... at least. If working gauges is all you want, there's heaps of segment gauges on eBay. Go for the mufti variants  - ie electrical format, and the job is sorted for £50-60, £100 tops.

Oil temp and pressure segments, I got mine from a Farina cluster. A mate got his from a 1100 Vanden Plas. They're all the same, if it's got LR on there the price triples - this kinda says all you need to know.

Your mileage may vary.

[GlenAnderson]

If it's originality you're after the solution won't be cheap. Bought new, likely £2-300... at least. If working gauges is all you want, there's heaps of segment gauges on eBay. Go for the mufti variants  - ie electrical format, and the job is sorted for £50-60, £100 tops.

Oil temp and pressure segments, I got mine from a Farina cluster. A mate got his from a 1100 Vanden Plas. They're all the same, if it's got LR on there the price triples - this kinda says all you need to know.

Your mileage may vary.

This ☝️

If you want to have working gauges in the original cluster, without going to the expense of refurbishing or replacing the original type, then finding an electric gauge segment that sweeps the right way, and is marked suitably, is just a matter of being patient on eBay. You'll need to wire them from the same 10v regulator as the fuel gauge.

[NoBeardNoTopKnot]

Yup GA, spot on as ever. However the prancer mindset that has the self-same part described 'as LR' and old stock/original, thus sells for hundreds, won't accept things outside the LR bubble - thus for £20, and described as 'Hillman Minx'.