height 109" with pick-up cab

[Richard]

Would any of you know the max height of a Series 2a 109" with pick-up cab? I can find all sorts of dimensions, but just not the one from ground to top of roof. Mine is a 1964 109" with full canvas hood. I found a nice pick-up cab, but want to know if my S2a with pick-up cab mounted would fit in the garage (in Metz). I have 202 cm to play with to the underside of the door when opened, 203 when I remove the inside handle. The canvas hood reaches 204 cm at the rear hoop.

Many thanks in advance

Richard

[Alan Drover]

It's in the workshop manual. A Series 3 is 206cm so you're about right.
Check the workshop manual on the website. It's downloadable.

[Richard]

Thanks. Found it in the Technical details 1968, I assume I once downloaded from our website. But those are dimensions for '88" regular, 109" long". But is the top of the pick-up roof lower than the rear hoop of my 109"? I have two pictures: one of the 109 Series 3 V8 I once had, and one of my S2a, on the same spot in my garage in Doorn. I'll post 'em later, when I've reduced them in size 😎 It seems that the Stage One pick-up roof is lower than the rear hoop of the S2a. An 88" Series has a max height of 1m97 if I'm not mistaken...

It's a game of centimeters. I don't want to do 300 odd miles to Metz and find out I have to deflate tyres to get in, or something. The Disco (I) fitted...

300 odd miles. In a S2a...

That's why I'm contemplating a luxuriousification of my S2a: heater, pick-up cab to keep the "heat" in (and fit the garage), overdrive, Roamer or Fairey, fix the gearbox leak and occasional jumping out of third, new clutch and pressure plate (pedal is very high now), maybe even a Webasto auxiliary heater, and, dare I say this, put in the LPG-installation left over from the sale of my garden ornament. I don't want to go to all that trouble and find out the thing doesn't fit...

[Alan Drover]

That would be the maximum height at the highest point of the vehicle.
My Series 3 SWB hardtop on parabolics is about 202 cm measured at the highest point which is above the rear door.

[Gareth]

My S2a 109 with a truck cab and the rear 3/4 canvas. The canvas rear hoop is slightly higher than the cab top. Not much in it though. You can just about see it in this photo. My rear 3/4 hood is sitting on the original hood sticks hoops from when it was a full canvas.

[Richard]

Ah, you did that conversion. Nice. But the first hoop behind the cab is higher than the cab roof, and the rear hoop, at least as far as my S2a is concerned, is higher than the front one...

Pictures of the pick-up I had and the S2a I have below. Not much of a difference...

And two pictures of the cab that's for sale, or à vendre in fact. Prix élevé the seller says, but also restauration totale...

Richard

[Gareth]

It's difficult to say for sure. My rear hoop is slightly higher, but it's more because the rear of the car sits up a bit. Mine is on heavy duty parabolic springs which raise it a little.  The tin top is definitely a little lower.

[w3526602]

Hi Richard,

Doh! My first reply aborted in mid-stream. I don't know if it has gone on ahead, or is just "gone". Try again....

If your drive slopes UP towards your garage door, the rear edge of your hard-top will be vertically taller, as it passes through the doorway. It will continue to grow, until your rear wheels also enter the garage, and your Landy is sitting level again.

I assume that your garage ceiling is higher than the doorway.

I was unable to REVERSE my LWB Full HT into the "basement" garage of the 40ft x 30ft bungalow that I built, but plenty of clearance once inside.

Memory says that 45 ft wide drive had a 1:8 gradient. My 750kg boat winch (that's PULL, not LIFT) could drag a laden LWB up my drive, but became "cable bound" every 3 metres, so I had to chock the wheels, and remove, an extension cable ... twice. Effortless, but tedious.

I had no problems driving in "frontwards"

Memory says the winch cost me £15 from TOWSURE in the late 1980s. I was very careful not to go under a suspended load, and again, later, when I had upgraded to a chain hoist from INDESPENSION. Chain hoists are meant for lifting, and get "messy" when dragging.

Oops!

Its REVERSING up my drive that caused the rear of the roof to continue rising until rear wheels were through the door, and onto level floor.


602

[Richard]

Thanks for the warning. Yes, there is a slope, just in front of the entrance door to the underground parking lot, but the last bit in front of it, I think about 8 to 10 meters, is flat. So, no problem there. The door to my box inside the basement parking is the bottleneck, so to speak. There's nothing I can do about the door, there is no room for adjustment – beside taking off the doorhandle on the inside, and gain one whole centimeter. No, the handle is bigger than that, but with the handle gone, the bottom of the raised door itself becomes the limit...

Richard

[Richard]

The tin top is definitely a little lower.

That was also my impression, but I'll check the distance from the whitish, boxed in steel H-section in my garage to the floor as soon as I'm back home. That should give me an idea...

Richard

[Richard]

And I do ask myself if it will be doable, even with the added luxury of tin top, heater and overdrive, to cover the 270 mostly motorway miles from Doorn to Metz. I'm afraid especially the noise levels will be tiring... (Although form about halfway taking secondary roads is a feasible option.)
Richard

[simonbav]

Good morning Richard, did you see the other post on the forum a day or two ago about introducing a two way pivot to the rear hoop in order for it to lower for garage access? Someone else may find the link before I do. I may have seen it on the FB S2C page.

[Richard]

Hi, no, I hadn't seen it, don't spend much time on FB, but I've found the post, thanks to your pics. Interesting solution. Will keep that in mind! I was wondering where the horizontal tie bars each side went, but the two pics Paul Wylie posted in the comments a day later show they just have to pivot at the center support hoop – nylock nuts – to make them "follow" the movement of the rear hoop... Rather inventive!

I wonder if a pipe repair clamp, something like this, on both sides of the rear hoop would do the trick. Cut a section of 2 to 4 cm out of the rear hoop, prop the rear hoop at the uppermost position, fit and tighten the pipe repair clamps on both sides, to lower the top section of the rear hoop, loosen the pipe clamps and let the top slide down on the lower section that is bolted to the tub. But would the construction with the pipe clamps be sturdy enough. Maybe fit an internal pipe spigot or steel insert...

Richard

[simonbav]

Or just go for cut uprights with internal spigot or steel inserts on the lower poles and holes for a couple of R clips in the spigots and top poles.

[Gareth]

The tin top is definitely a little lower.

That was also my impression, but I'll check the distance from the whitish, boxed in steel H-section in my garage to the floor as soon as I'm back home. That should give me an idea...

Richard

And I do ask myself if it will be doable, even with the added luxury of tin top, heater and overdrive, to cover the 270 mostly motorway miles from Doorn to Metz. I'm afraid especially the noise levels will be tiring... (Although form about halfway taking secondary roads is a feasible option.)
Richard

And I do ask myself if it will be doable, even with the added luxury of tin top, heater and overdrive, to cover the 270 mostly motorway miles from Doorn to Metz. I'm afraid especially the noise levels will be tiring... (Although form about halfway taking secondary roads is a feasible option.)
Richard

You'll be fine! I drove across Spain to Morocco, motorway all the way. Took 2 days over it. I find a set of noise cancelling headphones, Bluetooth to music work very well.