What have you done with your Series 2 in February ?

[diffwhine]

I'll take another look at the dynamo stud. Excuse my ignorance but why does it need to be free to move if the dynamo sits at the right position. I'm just conscious I don't want to make things worse by trying to get it to move.
Any and all advice appreciated 👍

I think you will find that in order to align the dynamo correctly and to be able to remove and refit without taking half the front cover off, that the stud has to be able to move, I remember with my one that once out, I had to run a drill down the hole to clear out 60 years of rust and crud.

[Jimbo]

I would buy a new stud first, check you have the correct one before trying to remove the old one.
I had to get mine really hot first and slowly work it to get it turning before I could tap it out.
Took a good couple of hours.........

[Adam1958]

After shouting at the V8 like it was one of our beloved politicians, I decided to finish off rebuilding my spare transfer box... pretty chuffed since it's my first one.

[Littlelegs]

I had another fiddle with the dynamo bolt. Cleaned around it and applied some plus gas and a bit of heat and force. It is rock solid and will need a lot of heat and patience I suspect. Sadly I don't have an oxy acetylene so it's still sat there laughing at me😂😂

On the plus side I cleaned all the crud from around the spark plugs and made sure they'll all come out when the time comes to swap them. I cleaned up some other bits including the dynamo brackets and found that there is actually a fuel pump on the engine. I assumed there wasn't as one came in the box of bits with the landy. The starter motor came off fairly easily although a stud did come out with it🙄. It looks to be in quite good condition so I intend to test it, clean it up a bit and refit.
As always any tips or pointers appreciated.

[Bloke]

Started changing the 11" brakes to 10" brakes on my 88. Just did the NS front corner yesterday. The new LOF drum is VERY tight over the new TRW shoes, even with the adjuster all the way in. Took a bit of a hammer to get the drum on, but I can move the wheel, though it takes a lot of effort.

I'll see how the other 3 corners go...

Tom

[Alan Drover]

Using warm water, with a drop of washing up liquid I cleaned the green crud off the rear light lenses of my Series 3.
Also gave it a run to charge the battery, give the younger dog a good walk then pick up dog food

[Alan Drover]

Forgot to mention that I used an old toothbrush to clean the lenses.  Saves struggling to remove the light guards.

[Adam1958]

Started changing the 11" brakes to 10" brakes on my 88. Just did the NS front corner yesterday. The new LOF drum is VERY tight over the new TRW shoes, even with the adjuster all the way in. Took a bit of a hammer to get the drum on, but I can move the wheel, though it takes a lot of effort.

I'll see how the other 3 corners go...

Tom

I had a similar problem, I pushed the drum round a few times, then removed it and the shoes and carefully filed the high spot of the leading and trailing edges... it was barely anything, and would probably have run-in after a few miles. My main motivation was I often need to push my truck back and forth in the workshop to be able to do other stuff and I didn't fancy sweating unnecessarily.

[island dormy]

  Hi Alan

  I have also used that tooth brush trick to get into tiny hard to reach spots, it works a treat.
If I dont happen to have a used tooth brush handy Ill use SWMBO tooth brush......I always rinse it off before I put it back in the medicine cabinet.

  Victor

[Bloke]

Started changing the 11" brakes to 10" brakes on my 88. Just did the NS front corner yesterday. The new LOF drum is VERY tight over the new TRW shoes, even with the adjuster all the way in. Took a bit of a hammer to get the drum on, but I can move the wheel, though it takes a lot of effort.

I'll see how the other 3 corners go...

Tom

I had a similar problem, I pushed the drum round a few times, then removed it and the shoes and carefully filed the high spot of the leading and trailing edges... it was barely anything, and would probably have run-in after a few miles. My main motivation was I often need to push my truck back and forth in the workshop to be able to do other stuff and I didn't fancy sweating unnecessarily.

Thanks Adam, I'll give that a go once I've done all 4 corners. Hopefully it won't need too much taking off.

Tom

[simonbav]

I stitched my sun visors on my old hand cranked sewing machine. They turned out alright though I may alter the upper thread tension and re-sew them. Costs for the four circa £60, plus about four hours of time.

[Gareth]

Took the 109 to the tip to recycle the rubbish. Whilst I was off loading, I got a tap on the shoulder. Pleasant lady said I have an amazing vehicle, but my brake lights were not working!

 

Checked it out when I got home and found 12v at the switch, and when the wires were bridged the brake lights worked, so duff switch.

New hydraulic switch on order from Paddocks. Shame the delivery cost is twice the price of the switch and then vat (after club discount of course)

[Alan Drover]

I'm lucky with my Series 3 which has a plastic pedal actuated switch. Using Land Rover Special Tool number 3 (a length of wood to depress the brake pedal) I carry out a regular check and in the event of failure a dose of electrical switch cleaner usually clears the fault.

[Gareth]

I usually check the rear lights when it's parked in the garage. The reflection of the door is good enough, however she's been kicked out the garage for a few weeks whilst I rebuilt an engine, so missed it this time.


Glad it wasn't 

Sorry, gratuitous use of emoji now I've found them! 

[gcc130]

I don't find the hydraulic switches very reliable, had to change them a few times on my modified Series 1