Engine not starting

[Birdsnest55]

For TDC on firing stroke. Both Vaves need to be closed, then the Exhaust valve opens after to allow the burnt gases out, then the Inlet valve opens and sucks in fuel and air, both close and Spark happens.
You state the exhaust vales closes, this seems to be incorrect. As a 4 stroke the crank revolves twice to very spark.

Paul

[Eve]

I now find compression stroke on no 1 cylinder by taking all the spark plugs out, connecting my compression tester to no 1 spark plug hole and turning engine over on the handle while looking at the compression tester. When the dial shows compression rising I know I'm on compression stroke on no 1 cylinder.

[Alan Drover]

If the exhaust valve has just closed then the last upwards stroke is the exhaust stroke. On the next downward stroke the inlet opens for the induction then the next upwards stroke with both valves closed is the compression stroke.

[Telemuhcaster]

For TDC on firing stroke. Both Vaves need to be closed, then the Exhaust valve opens after to allow the burnt gases out, then the Inlet valve opens and sucks in fuel and air, both close and Spark happens.
You state the exhaust vales closes, this seems to be incorrect. As a 4 stroke the crank revolves twice to very spark.

Paul

Sorry Paul, I was in a rush and probably didn't write very clearly. I timed crank to cam with exhaust valve fully open on the EP mark. Revolved engine until both valves closed at TDC. With both valves closed on the TDC mark I set the dizzy timing. It points to number one cylinder. If I rotate the crank past TDC the exhaust valve will open, then inlet, then both closed where it points at 1 again and sparks at 6degrees past TDC. So I think it's correct no?

[Telemuhcaster]

Hold on trying to add pics

[Telemuhcaster]

https://imgur.com/a/vEKGLLF. This is it timed with EP

[Telemuhcaster]

https://imgur.com/a/7KPkcmQ This is it at TDC another rotation later, after the exhaust valve has closed and the inlet valve has opened and closed. So now both are shut.

[island dormy]

  Hi

   If you hold the choke plate open and pump the accelerator pedal is there any petrol being squirted down the inside of the carb?
 Maybe a carb jet is blocked you said you had old fuel in it.

  If you can not see fuel being squirted pour a 1/2 teaspoon of gas into the carb opening  and immediately give it a try. If it fires its then a fuel issue.

  Victor

[Telemuhcaster]

Hi

   If you hold the choke plate open and pump the accelerator pedal is there any petrol being squirted down the inside of the carb?
 Maybe a carb jet is blocked you said you had old fuel in it.

  If you can not see fuel being squirted pour a 1/2 teaspoon of gas into the carb opening  and immediately give it a try. If it fires its then a fuel issue.

  Victor

Hi victor,

Yes I see fuel squirting down the carb, it should all be new fuel. I used new fuel when I got it running pre rebuild probably around 5 months ago, I also rebuilt the carb and it ran sweet as a nut. It surely has to be a timing problem? I suppose I could dismantle and re-ultrasonic clean it all.

[island dormy]

  Hi Okay

  Its likely not a fuel issue then if fuel is squirting down the carb opening. Sorry

Does it try to fire at all? Even just a little bit or nothing at all? Any bangs or back fires?

  Victor

[Telemuhcaster]

Hi Okay

  Its likely not a fuel issue then if fuel is squirting down the carb opening. Sorry

Does it try to fire at all? Even just a little bit or nothing at all? Any bangs or back fires?

  Victor

That's ok victor, thanks for the suggestions. Nope nothing! Just chuffs no smoke no nothing. Very perplexing... I'll get to the bottom of it though!

[Alan Drover]

Take a plug out and crank the engine over to see if there's a spark.

[Telemuhcaster]

Take a plug out and crank the engine over to see if there's a spark.

Yeah there is spark

[Alan Drover]

After it's been cranking over have you removed a plug to see if it's wet? Sometimes a plug sparking outside the cylinder won't spark inside.
If the plug is dry it means no fuel is getting in the cylinder.
Can you expand on  "chuff" that you say it does? Is there any air coming out from anywhere? I wonder why it "chuffs."
Decades ago I fitted a nearly new second hand Gold Seal engine to my Morris Oxford and it wouldn't start. My uncle towed it round the farmyard with his Series 2A where I was doing the work and there were a lot of banging and popping. Turned out the distributor drive had been put in 180 degrees out. Swapped 1&4 (I think) plug leads round and it started fine

[Telemuhcaster]

After it's been cranking over have you removed a plug to see if it's wet? Sometimes a plug sparking outside the cylinder won't spark inside.
If the plug is dry it means no fuel is getting in the cylinder.
Can you expand on  "chuff" that you say it does? Is there any air coming out from anywhere? I wonder why it "chuffs."
Decades ago I fitted a nearly new second hand Gold Seal engine to my Morris Oxford and it wouldn't start. My uncle towed it round the farmyard with his Series 2A where I was doing the work and there were a lot of banging and popping. Turned out the distributor drive had been put in 180 degrees out. Swapped 1&4 (I think) plug leads round and it started fine

Plugs are wet yeah! I turned to distributer round and got flames out the top of the carb... I did it a bit quick and dirty and I felt like it was wrong perhaps. But tbh it's the closest thing I've seen to a 'start'. I just don't understand because I'm sure I'm on compression... and dizzy is timed correctly! The next up and down is blow and suck. Squeeze, dizzy static timed at TDC, no bang.

I guess by chuff it's just the noise of air leaving the cylinder down the exhaust.