Voltage stabiliser

Started by Bigdog, Mar 24, 2024, 06:44 PM

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Bigdog

Me again, does the fuel and water gauge only work if it's via a voltage stabiliser, is it something to do with reducing it from 12v, could be wrong, at the moment the wires from the loom go straight into the dash panel, thanks

Craig T

All depends what the age of the vehicle is and what gauges and senders you have.

From Chassis Suffix D, April 1967 the voltage stabiliser was fitted and this reduced the voltage to around 10v. This required different gauges with straight needles and different sender units.

The earlier gauges were non stabilised and worked straight off the loom. These can be seen as having pointed, arrow heads on the gauges.

The voltage stabiliser is a funny thing as it kind of reduces the voltage but it does it by turning the voltage on and off. It's a bi-metallic strip that heats up when the current is flowing then turns off until the strip cools, then it comes back on again. Difficult thing to check as they only work with the correct load on them.
There are more modern versions off course now that use a simple transistor to reduce the voltage to 10v.

Craig.

diffwhine

#2
The details of how the voltage stabiliser is wired is available in the wiring diagrams in the technical section. I believe the vehicle in question is a 1970 ex military 109.If my 1968 Rover 1 was anything to go by, it should have a voltage stabiliser, but the problem is what has been done to it since 1970?

Assume it should have one if it has straight needles on the gauges as opposed to arrow heads. Assume it should be mounted securely to the bulkhead behind the dash and earthed to the bulkhead. If you have a Series 3 type dash, it should be attached to the back of the instrument pack. If you don't have one, source a modern solid state one.
1965 2A 88" Station Wagon

Wittsend

#3
Before we can advise we need to see pictures of your instrument gauges.

If it's truly a 1970 vehicle then it will need a voltage stabiliser.


:RHD

Bigdog


Birdsnest55

Need a picture of the front to see what needles are on the gauges.

Paul
1965 109" 200TDi with a 5 speed gearbox and 3.54 diffs.

Wittsend

#6
I'd like to see a picture of the gauge faces.

As this is a 1970 model there should be a voltage stabiliser.

You mention you have a water temp and fuel gauge.
This strongly suggests you have a post 1967 model and the gauge needles should be straight, something like this:-

Although if truly of MoD origin, there may be "extra" gauges ... oil temp, volts, etc.

But ... if someone has grafted on an early bulkhead then the gauges (and wiper motor) could have been carried over giving you a miss-match of parts ???

Can't actually see a voltage stabiliser in there. a pic of the bulkhead behind the dash panel should show it if it's there.

You are looking for a little metal can like this:-




Bigdog

It's all been completely re wired, here are my gauges , hopefully you can make them out

Bigdog


Bigdog

Here is another picture of the back and if you look towards the left hand side I think that is the stabiliser

Birdsnest55

That is the stabiliser and you need that with the fuel gauge.
The other 2 gauges do not need a wire on, they look like ones that have tubes on and they have been cut off.

Paul
1965 109" 200TDi with a 5 speed gearbox and 3.54 diffs.

Bigdog

Is it difficult to wire for the fuel gauge, at the moment it plugs straight into the back, how do I connect it via the stabiliser, thanks

Wittsend

#12
Yes, you have the later 2A gauge set up.

You need the voltage stabiliser to work the fuel gauge.
As posted ^^^ the other 2 gauges are "mechanical" in that they have a sender and a capillary tube to the gauge. These are not a practical DiY repair. The gauges need to be sent away to a specialist instrument restorer - won't be cheap.

You voltage stabiliser may or may not be working. You can purchase new off eBay or go for a modern solid-state stabiliser for about the same money. Make sure your stabiliser has a good earth contact with the bulkhead. Remove and sand away any paint or rust around the mounting hole.



Here is an eBay link to a solid-state voltage stabiliser
Voltage Stabiliser




:RHD

Bigdog

Yeah the stabiliser is new, so is that a wire from my fuse box to the stabiliser then a wire from the stabiliser to my fuel gauge????

Wittsend

Yes, as per the diagram.

 :RHD