Anyone tried "Engine Restore" by Ametech?

Started by haveyoubooked, Apr 14, 2024, 08:25 AM

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haveyoubooked

Before I get shot down on this one, I am rebuilding my engine the usual way in the near future - hopefully October ish (rebore, new pistons etc etc), as the bores have a lot of pitting from it being seized for decades. Pic of No.6 bore, the worst on mine doesn't really show how bad it is, but that bore had about 3mm of scale and build up on the walls before I cleaned it up, so pits will be fairly deep.

That said, I have the engine running quite nicely with enough power to shift itself around the croft, take the bins to the bottom of the lane etc, and whilst i'm diverted on road repairs and barn overhaul on the croft, was idly wondering if I could do anything about the anti-midge smog that follows it (I have never seen a worse case of blue smoking). It starts on first revolution hot or cold generally, and doesn't foul plugs to a point they wont fire somehow, but the bores are very poorly.

I quite like "project farm" on youtube, product assessments and tests seem pretty comprehensive for everything from abrasives to tools. One thing he tested was "Engine Restore" in the case of a knackered Ford tractor engine.

I've bought a tin to see if it makes any difference to my oil smoke in the interim whilst my engine rebuild awaits. Anyone else tried the stuff?

I'll try and be slightly scientific and take compression readings before, run it a few hours and then take another. Both cold, both with the same gauge, fully charged battery, WOT etc.

It's not arrived yet but I am intrigued. Not recommending it at all, and even if it seems to do something, not recommending it as a solution, but might be something that could stave off a rebore a little longer for some.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr8jIwVyIFE



simonbav

I'd certainly give it a try in my engine based on Project farm's two videos a year apart.
1961 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon

geoff


a nice colour on your exhaust valve shown  :RHD

w3526602

Hi,

When I was demobbed from the RAF (1967), I "travelled" for a month in Wynn's Friction Proofing.

Wynns had a VERY impressive demonstration, but garages were already disbelievers,
despite Wynns offering to replace, FOC, every can returned by a disatisfied customer. Hmmm ... not quite the same a giving the vendor their money back.

The end customer DID get their money back.

602

jkhackney

:RHD

A few years ago in the context of a school language exchange for one of my kids, I met the regional manager in charge of selling the additive metals to the manufacturer of Engine Restore. He says the special blend of metals is powdered and mixed by special machines that only his company possesses, the point being that they melt in the combustion chamber and get smushed into voids, improving engine performance. Despite my doubtful look, he ended up giving me 2 cans.

I put one can into my 86" (2L) about 1,000 miles ago. Before using the stuff, it had really poor leakdown values but good compression. Its pistons are extremely scratched up and the bores are glazed. Yet it didn't burn oil. It's already bored out to 0.040".

I like to think it's now got a turbo and that it's getting 30 miles to the gallon, but that's probably not the case. I haven't re-measured compression or leakdown (the valves are also in that equation though, not just the rings).

I don't think that an old clapped out Land Rover, puttering up and down steep winding hills in the snow, is the best test bed for this additive. Maybe if it was a classic muscle car that I drove on the same flat, fast road consistently, I'd have something conclusive?

I honestly can't notice any difference, nor any harm. Any engine oil leaking out hasn't got glitter in it, so at least the stuff isn't harming my bearings at all. I'm due for an oil change this Spring and I'll see what's in the sump.

I don't know if the second can will go into the 86" again or into the sixpot. The latter burns so much oil that I think the additive would just be combusted out the exhaust very quickly and wasted.

It's a cool can to add to my shelf of cool empty packaging.
-Jeremy

NoBeardNoTopKnot

#5
I'm a great fan of the various 'snake-oils'. My current fav is Lucas. Does it work? Probably not, I can say pouring the stuff in means it burns less oil, only that could be said of EP90.

I care not. I repeatedly run these engines with oil not touching the bottom of the  dipstick, and truly abuse mine. Should I do this? Of course not, yet it seems to run fine.

I do 8-9000 miles a year and must use 5-6 gallons of 20/50W more than is best. The way I see it, I'm still waaayyy out in front. I did a bodge engine-still-in rebuild last month. New rings via a Flexhone and a decoke. I'm not sure it was necessary, I did it anyway.  It'll do another year at least, I'd expect far more.

This 109 has been in the family since new and has been treated this way from day one. All the 'oilier than thou stuff' is well enough, only I get the idea it's 'Beard Brigade' stuff for those that want a mint LR. OK if that's your thing. Whereas it seems, you're more apt to use an LR as I do mine.

These engines have to be in pretty appalling order - worse than mine - to need rebuilds before putting oil in the top is not the easier / cheaper / quicker option. And I can't believe many are worse than mine.

I've a mortgage sized bet that says if you buy snake-oil various / a 20L drum of 20/50 on eBay, then do no more, you'll be fine.