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Door closing

Started by Bigdog, Jun 02, 2024, 05:27 PM

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Bigdog

Is there anyway to adjust the doors so they shut properly or maybe as this is my first Land Rover series then that's maybe how the doors are, basically I need push the door a couple of times for it to be closed properly and I need to use the handle to retract the latch before it closes, is this just the way they are, it's a 1970 series 2a 109 ex military, many thanks

Space-Kook

You can adjust the position of the striker plate to make sure it closes first time.
1969 2A
1968 2A LWT

Wittsend

Doors can be tricky things ...

1st Make sure the door hinge pins are in good order. That there is no slop when you try and lift the door up.

Then check the door striker on the door. It must not be worn or ragged at the end. It should be at a nice smooth angle.

(The parts in my pictures have been galvanised by the restorer and the doors have not had a lot of wear.)

Then, as mentioned ^^^, look to the striker plate. You should see wear marks where the door makes contact.
There should be no undue or uneven wear.

You can adjust the striker plate up and down (there's fixing bolt below as well as the one shown). And the striker plate can be moved in or out away from the door catch.
Additionally you can put a spacer behind the striker plate to get it "nearer" to the door catch.

 :RHD

Bigdog

Perfect, is there 2 settings on the door latch, is it for a reason, so when I close the door gently it engages into the slot just after the angled part then a final push puts the latch into the large hole

GHOBHW

also properly lube the door handle moving parts, mine shuts perfectly with zero force, you can just move it with your finger and it latches shut, never had a door so good

also sounds like you need to move your striker outwards :RHD

diffwhine

It may also be an issue with the door latch itself. Sometimes they wear and the latch bit extends too far out from the door.
1965 2A 88" Station Wagon

Richard

What about the door rubbers? Could they be the reason for the doors not shutting properly?
Richard
'64 S2a
'85 RRC

g6anz

Take off the door top, its only two nuts. If the door then shuts correctly you will need to adjust the angle of the top. If it leans too far in it will make closing the door difficult. As suggested above look at the rubbers they can cause problems.
No Worries mate

simonbav

Quote from: g6anz on Jun 03, 2024, 08:29 AMTake off the door top, its only two nuts. If the door then shuts correctly you will need to adjust the angle of the top. If it leans too far in it will make closing the door difficult. As suggested above look at the rubbers they can cause problems.

I have this issue on my passenger door. They're new pattern door tops. Are they fragile? Perhaps part cutting, re-angling and welding the bolts is preferable to brute force traction?
1960 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon

NoBeardNoTopKnot

#9
Purists stop reading now.

Stock S2 & S3 locks never truly work, or if used never stay working and rattle-free. Get rid. They're not safe or clever. Fact is... -Do not Pass Go, do not collect £200... it'd be why the anti-burst/ dovetail variants were a later fitment.  More so if you've got kids around and/or want to hang your spare 'rattle-free' on the rear door.

Later locks have a rubber dovetail, correctly fitted this aligns the door thus reduces noise - and holds doors to seals. Wind-noise at your right-ear is removed, and the anti-burst function adds safety. Someone will along to say they manage perfectly fine without, and surely they do.

However if you've kids knocking about, a smidgin of common-sense, and want to eliminate some wind-noise and rattle in the bargain, get rid of stock. Tell Nigel where to go and source a set of anti-burst,.

Central-locking might have to wait.

Bigdog

I think my rubbers has a lot to do with it, I installed new ones but the doors are binding on them

g6anz

I didn't bend or stress the door top. I just fitted a piece of aluminium strip under the inner edge. So when the top is bolted down it leans out slightly, this now means that the door closes reasonably easily.
No Worries mate

Gareth

Get an aerosol of upholsterers silicon spray. Marvellous stuff  for lubricating door seals and other tight fitting stuff. Just spray it on and problem will go away. If it ever comes back, spray some more on.

Also good for easing vent seals, rubber hoses, seat covers.

It leaves no residue. The only thing I wouldn't do is use it if your going to be painting soon after.

simonbav

#13
Quote from: g6anz on Jun 04, 2024, 10:43 AMI didn't bend or stress the door top. I just fitted a piece of aluminium strip under the inner edge. So when the top is bolted down it leans out slightly, this now means that the door closes reasonably easily.

Thankyou G6anz, I really appreciate your response. I hadn't thought that way. I owe you one (or two)  :cheers
1960 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon