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steering drop arm puller

Started by DickB, Jun 24, 2024, 01:41 PM

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Any advice on a puller for the steering drop arm? Is there any way of removing it without as it appears to be very expensive for possibly a one time use tool. I think it's the Leyland 6000000. Is there an unbranded cheaper option?

What is the dimension of the retaining nut on the drop arm?

Trying to change the rod ends/ball joints. I am assuming one is left threaded and the other right?


HNJ Engineering do a drop arm puller ...


It is a very well made bit of kit - but you may not like the price.

Space around the drop arm is very tight and restricted. This puller gets you in there.
I forget the size of the end nut.
You have more room for a conventional puller when the engine is out.

The ball joints on the rod are 1 of RH thread and 1  :gold-cup of LH thread.
It matters not which end you attach to the steering relay or steering box.

I colour code my ball joint ends with red or green tape/paint. Makes future maintenance/removal just that bit easier.




Or do yo indeed have to remove the drop arm to get the ball joint out? I tried yesterday and it doesn't appear to be enough room for removal unless the drop arm is removed first.
Both ball joints look ok but as I have replaced the other TRE's , I thought I would do all of them. The rubbers aren't split but appear to be devoid of grease and don't have a nipple to replenish grease.


Working space is very tight down there - I can't get my phone in for a picture  :shakinghead

It may be easier to remove the wing ???

I have made the air cleaner bracket detachable which gives a bit more access.
You shouldn't have to remove the drop arm (Pitman arm) to access the ball joint. I guess it depends if you have a good compact ball joint splitter. The old time "hit it with two big hammers" ain't going to work.
No room to swing a cat never mind hammers.

OE ball joints didn't have grease nipples. To service you were supposed to take them apart, clean them out and replace the grease.



Access seems to be doable from underneath. I split the rod ends away, no problem but as they drop away, they are stopped by the chassis, so I am guessing this is why the drop arm has to come off? I didn't think to rotate the steering wheel to see if the angle changed enough for the TRE to drop out fully.

Will it be the same at the other end at the relay? Space is also tight here.

Serious Series

Quite a few drop arm pullers on ebay I bought a laser one awhile back which has been fine.

The steering relay end best remove the arm from top of relay


I bought one of those eBay pullers and it was way too big. I guess it's for Defenders which must have bigger arms?


I've got one at home, it was not too expensive and works fine. I'm on holiday until next week so if you remind me then, you can borrow it for price of return carriage?

You will need to remove the relay lever to get the front joint off.

I found it easier, as said, by removing the front wing.


that's really kind of you. I will have a look at the postage price. Where in the country are you, approximately please?

Peter Holden

I used a bog standard puller with a jubilee clip round it to stop the legs from spreading but I dis it on the bench.  If I was doing it in situ I would take the wing off.  Presumably you already have the front panel off so only a few more bolts



Quote from: DickB on Jun 24, 2024, 03:37 PMthat's really kind of you. I will have a look at the postage price. Where in the country are you, approximately please?

Currently on holiday in Cornwall until Thursday eve. Tool is in South Manchester.


I'm happy to post it when I get home and let you know how much it costs? No hardship, the Post office is on my regular dog walk. You can post it back when your done.

PM me details if it's what you want to do.