What you did with your Series 2 Land Rover in July

[Littlelegs]

Cheers, I'll let you know if I need one. I'm hoping with a little soaking and persuasion with the correct sized screwdriver and/or some heat I'll manage to get the grub screw out.  I'm not sure what number splines it has, but are the caps different depending on the number of splines?

[Alan Drover]

Not as far as I know. It's the drive member.

[Adam1958]

Woke up early today, so went to reassemble my gear stick in its little tower with the spring and all that stuff, on reassemble I noticed that the pressed steel cup on the top of the spring jiggles from side to side a little as the lever is moved, hardly a crisis, but since boredom was upon me, I thought I'd make a better fitting one from a snapped 3/4th gear main-shaft bush, handily the the OD of the narrow part is a tiny bit narrower than the ID of the spring, so it was a quick job to turn down the flange, pop a taper in it, shorten it and hey presto. It adds a bit of preload to the spring, but not enough that it's an issue.
If feel could be measured I'd say it feels roughly 3% better. 😂 so totally worth the garage time.

[simonbav]

Morning all,

I bought a USB charging points/battery voltage display to bring this bus into the 21st century and fitted it above the dash vacuum indicator switch, fed from a switched live.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235277291079?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lb6vytrgsde&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Fxm85MKLRNC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

A Henry 2.5m hose for £8+ was perfect for the heater ducts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204776677875?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZMhKfkw2RXW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Fxm85MKLRNC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I continued fettling the loom, replaced poor connectors for soldered brass bullets and re-wrapped it in fresh tape and started to reintegrate it with the instrument panel and vehicle. I'll have a look at more fuses or a centralised fuse box as I understand the loom better.

I fitted a replacement turnbuckle to the 109's front row centre seat box and a missing seat strap stud to the 88's front centre seat position (both  from LROE).

Lastly, I've bought a sheet of 2mm x 750 x 400mm ali for a new driver's floor and some bulkhead/wing spire nuts and 12mm wiring grommets ahead of my next Land Rover fettling day.

[TimV]

So out and about, I noticed the indicators were getting slower and slower then they just stopped working. Drove back using hand signals to the consternation of the euro-boxes around me

Annoying thing is that I had an advisory on the MOT last year - flashing too slow. Took out the original flasher unit (it was correctly dated), replaced with this new unit that has lasted 18 months! They don't make them like they used to ...

So find the old flasher unit to test the circuits - tomorrow's job.

[Alan Drover]

Get an electronic one if possible.

[TimV]

Take the faulty one apart first - it might be electronic!

[Peter Holden]

Just cleaned a few bits up this afternoon in between assisting SWMBO in the gardsen.  I have gardening!!

Peter

[island dormy]

   Changed the right rear back frame bushing for the leaf spring.....without removing the spring.
 Hope that's the clunk I've been experiencing over the last month, the 10,000 mile old bushing was completely perished.

  Victor

[Gareth]

I've blown the bloody exhaust to bits! At least the doors didn't come off!!

Driving this morning, long uphill section and suddenly BLAHHHH all hell broke loose.

The rear silencer has fallen to bits. Still attached but a big hole in the side.

Now is my opportunity to restore to original layout. It originally had a side exit behind the drivers rear wheel. The plan is to fit a new mid pipe and a new correct back box. I'll have to attach a bracket to the rear right out rigger, but that's not a big deal.

The reason it got changed to S3 rear exit layout was that the Marsland chassis didn't have the correct bracket. It was easier to just fit a S3 system.

 

[Craig T]

I've blown the bloody exhaust to bits! At least the doors didn't come off!!

Driving this morning, long uphill section and suddenly BLAHHHH all hell broke loose.

The rear silencer has fallen to bits. Still attached but a big hole in the side.

Now is my opportunity to restore to original layout. It originally had a side exit behind the drivers rear wheel. The plan is to fit a new mid pipe and a new correct back box. I'll have to attach a bracket to the rear right out rigger, but that's not a big deal.

The reason it got changed to S3 rear exit layout was that the Marsland chassis didn't have the correct bracket. It was easier to just fit a S3 system.

 

I assume you have a 109"

The rear left exit tail pipes have been around a very long time and are fitted to vehicles with rear mounted fuel tanks. In the series 2 and 2a that just means 109" station wagons. They also fitted them in 1967 when the 6 cylinders came along as they had the larger rear mounted tanks rather than the small underseat tank.

Series 3 109"s did away with the underseat tank in favour of the rear mounted tank so the exhausts then all became rear left exit.

I quite like the rear left exit pipes. It's further from the drivers window so makes for a quieter vehicle.

Craig.

[TimV]

Pulled out the flasher relay, put in the original - which worked but very slowly - so nothing wrong with the rest of the electrics.

Pulled the faulty one apart to see if it was repairable or an obvious fault. No sign of one, even ran a strip of paper between the contacts.

So a new one ordered. Also found that one of the dash bulbs had gone, Halfords do those so may walk down there tomorrow to get some.

And no - I don't want LEDs in the car.

[island dormy]

  Hi Craig

  Both my Dormobiles have left rear exhaust exits, and by rear exits I mean they go out behind the rear cross member.

  Victor

[Gareth]

I've blown the bloody exhaust to bits! At least the doors didn't come off!!

Driving this morning, long uphill section and suddenly BLAHHHH all hell broke loose.

The rear silencer has fallen to bits. Still attached but a big hole in the side.

Now is my opportunity to restore to original layout. It originally had a side exit behind the drivers rear wheel. The plan is to fit a new mid pipe and a new correct back box. I'll have to attach a bracket to the rear right out rigger, but that's not a big deal.

The reason it got changed to S3 rear exit layout was that the Marsland chassis didn't have the correct bracket. It was easier to just fit a S3 system.

 

I assume you have a 109"

The rear left exit tail pipes have been around a very long time and are fitted to vehicles with rear mounted fuel tanks. In the series 2 and 2a that just means 109" station wagons. They also fitted them in 1967 when the 6 cylinders came along as they had the larger rear mounted tanks rather than the small underseat tank.

Series 3 109"s did away with the underseat tank in favour of the rear mounted tank so the exhausts then all became rear left exit.

I quite like the rear left exit pipes. It's further from the drivers window so makes for a quieter vehicle.

Craig.

Yes 109. I know the rear exit is quieter, but in the scheme of things I reckon the general noise differences are minimal. It also sucks some fumes in through the rear when I've got the canvas rolled up. I always intended to return it to standard, so a destroyed exhaust is my chance.

[Gibbo103]

Had a bit of a fraught day today. Decided to swap out the starter motor on my 300tdi S2a as it was intermittent and it seemed as if the solenoid was not kicking in all the time. The starter motor did not want to come out past the bottom of the turbo so I removed the near side wing and the inlet pipe to the turbo to get better access and ended up having to grind a bit off the bottom of the turbo housing. New starter motor fitted and the fault still persisted. Tried a new ignition switch but still no better. It turned out to be a faulty relay!