What you did with your Series 2s in September

Started by Wittsend, Sep 01, 2024, 07:49 AM

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Paul.W

Removed the rear crankshaft oil seal.

Good bit of advice I found somewhere, to help remove the rear main bearing cap: put the bolts back in the holes, but not so far as to thread into the block, and squeeze them together by hand to get some grip to allow it to be wiggled loose and out.
Blue SWB full tilt late S2a headlights in wings, fairly original, non-concours!

simonbav

#91
I had a very productive day today. I took the side panel off the driver's front wing and beat a few dents out after annealing it. It's definitely a pattern replacement as it lacked the wheel arch reinforcing angle in addition to the rear bulkhead angle that I already knew about. I got it all back together again and back on the car. I reset the bulkhead angle so the wing aligned with the rad panel fixings, which was a shame 'cause I had lovely parallel door shut lines on that side lol. Not anymore.

I've got a question for you folks on here. I lost the bonnet pin spring yonks ago and picked up what I thought was a replacement.  I wonder if it was for a heavier Defender bonnet 'cause even with a 7.50 on it wouldn't compress.
1960 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon

diffwhine

You really should only line up the bulkhead to the rear tub aiming for about 882mm door gap top and bottom. Then make the wings fit the bulkhead and then the radiator panel set at the correct height to give clearance between bonnet and wings.
That bonnet pin spring looks way to heavy. It looks almost like a valve spring...
1965 2A 88" Station Wagon

simonbav

#93
Quote from: diffwhine on Sep 21, 2024, 09:16 PMYou really should only line up the bulkhead to the rear tub aiming for about 882mm door gap top and bottom. Then make the wings fit the bulkhead and then the radiator panel set at the correct height to give clearance between bonnet and wings.
That bonnet pin spring looks way to heavy. It looks almost like a valve spring...

The lining up was a nightmare. New rear 1/4 chassis and I had ratchet straps pulling the tub in all sorts of directions to get it summat like. Turned out the chassis legs were lozenged out of the rear cross member so one chassis rail was 1/2" longer than the other. The dimensions between front and rear rear spring hangers was identical side to side so the extra was behind the o/s rear spring hanger.

The flex in the rearmost panels took some of it up and I put a few shims in behind the rear cross member tabs too.

Thanks Mark. It is strong. l can't remember where I got that spring now but yes, there's the difference.
1960 88" 2286 petrol truck cab
1971 109" 2286 diesel station wagon

Gary Ash

#94
Minor improvements - an electronic flasher unit and LED's for the indicators - nice a bright.
Also fitted 2 MES dashboard LED lamps - unbelievably good, and you can see the speedo at night

Archie

Started teaching my grandson to drive.
Thought it best to start him in a decent vehicle.

He's showing potential😁
Archie

diffwhine

You do realise that when he gets old enough to do it, he will have to sue you for mental anguish? You will have embedded a completely irrational desire to own a Land Rover. More importantly he will be able to cite further mental anguish with loss of blood, bruised knuckles and financial loss. I'd get him out of there quick...
1965 2A 88" Station Wagon

biloxi

I'd get him to sign an indemnity contract.
.W.

Alan Drover

Collected 4x20kg bags of spuds today (the same weight as 2 G90 shod Wolf wheels) and stored them under cover in the garage. They'll see me through the winter.
Series 3 Owner but interested in all real Land Rovers.
"Being born was my first big mistake."
"Ça plane pour moi!"

Roosterrs

Dash refurb on my 109. Removed the series 3 dash and fitted the correct 2A 109 parts. Yes it's a diesel dash in a petrol but the additional light is used as a warning regarding the rear work lights.

Alan Drover

Did you have a complete Series 3 dash as I'm looking for a complete dash top for mine, or was it just the instrument panel?
Series 3 Owner but interested in all real Land Rovers.
"Being born was my first big mistake."
"Ça plane pour moi!"

Roosterrs

Quote from: Alan Drover on Sep 27, 2024, 08:14 PMDid you have a complete Series 3 dash as I'm looking for a complete dash top for mine, or was it just the instrument panel?
Just the instrument panel.

Alan Drover

#102
Thanks Roosters, I'll keep looking, hopefully if I go to Newbury there might be one.
Battery and charging check today, interesting results.
CCA (EN) Battery label 815 amps, meter 832 amps.
CA Battery label 1,000amps meter 1175.
After the dog walk I checked the charging rate which was a healthy 14.28 volts. The onboard voltmeter shows 15v . It's not particularly accurate but gives an idea if things go wrong.
The battery is an 8 month old Optima Red Top from Tayna.
All looks ok.
CCA is the amps available for 30 seconds at -18 C, CA is at 0C.
Series 3 Owner but interested in all real Land Rovers.
"Being born was my first big mistake."
"Ça plane pour moi!"

TimV

Managed to complete fitting the glazing with new rubber strips to the replacement rear hard top sides.

Started on fitting to the car.

Peter Holden

Green laning in West Wales with some friends from the West Midlands.  A lot of water about