Just need a rant (sorry in advance!)

Started by Doona, Nov 12, 2024, 02:33 PM

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Doona

In Sept 2023, I purchased a very expensive Powerlite startermotor from Paddocks, which has a manufacturer's warranty of 2 years . I fitted it about four weeks ago as I have been restoring my Land Rover.
The starter has an intermittent issue with the solenoid which means it only actually works on about 50 % of the occasions I've pressed the starter button.
It's taken me 4 weeks to trace the problem, given the rebuild, loom, etc.
I messaged Paddocks today, to be told, "12 month warranty", sorry not interested. I've explained it's only just been fitted, said I'm happy to send video and photos of the Land rover and the fact the starter is still literally brand new. But they're not interested. I've even pointed out Powerlite starter come with a 2 or 3 year warranty from the manufacturer. Not interested.
So, I'll take my business elsewhere from now on and reach out to Powerlite myself.
Really quite cross about it. Thanks for getting this far with my ranty post!

Archie

It's nothing for Paddocks to worry about because it's got a 2 year manufacturers warranty, so they should sort it on your behalf.

Going directly to the manufacturer is the better option though. 😉
Archie

Doona

Yep, in honesty that's was I was expecting from Paddocks, given manufacturers warranty, but no.
Anyways, I've rang Powerlite direct who've said return it, they'll examine and repair, or more likely replace given the description of the fault.
Absolute first class service from them.

Rangieman

Does your Landy use the old bulkhead starter button or is it on the key?
1960 Series 2 SW
1990 RRC
1987 RRC

Rangieman

Sorry, you mentioned a starter button in your first post, my bad...
My Series 2's starter button started to fail intermittently over the Summer so I replaced it.
I opened up the old one and the contacts were certainly worn, but not bad. After a few beers with an auto sparky friend we concluded that the switch was fine when carrying a heavy amperage load trying to power the original old starter motor, but the current needed to fire the solenoid on my modern geared starter is miniscule in comparison. I cleaned the contacts in my old switch with some aerosol and it came back to life.
Try bridging the two contacts on the engine bay side with a screw driver a few times. This will tell if your switch has an internal issue.
1960 Series 2 SW
1990 RRC
1987 RRC

Doona

Hi Rangieman,

It's on a starter button, but I've recreated the issue using a power probe direct off the battery, so missing out all of the loom.
I suspect a dry solder or similar within the solenoid on the starter. When I spoke with Powerlite and described the issue, they suspect the same. Just one of those things. What's annoyed me is Paddocks really poor attitude.

Rangieman

Let's hope that Powerlite have a word in Paddock's ear about their warranty.
This is not good for business with either company.
1960 Series 2 SW
1990 RRC
1987 RRC

GlenAnderson

#7
Although, granted, it sounds like Paddocks need to work on their customer relations a bit, they're actually in the right, because it's a manufacturer's warranty.

Statutorily, responsibility for warranty issues rest initially with a supplier, and not with the manufacturer, but only for the first year from date of supply. After that, any further warranty issues are the responsibility of the manufacturer.

The only exception would be if they as a supplier were underwriting the extended guarantee by way of an insurance policy such as some retailers do, but that still often means dealing with the third party underwriter rather than the supplier.

Sounds like Powerlite are going to take care of it though, which is good.

2aLightweight

My Powerlite starter became intermittent at around six months old. It was the solenoid contacts, it uses the cheap and nasty Denso type solenoid as fitted to Td5 starters, I fitted a solenoid repair kit and all has been well for past two years.

What I have also found very strange is that if the battery is not 100% ie if I haven't used vehicle for 2-3 weeks, it often will not start, it seems that the starter takes all the vehicle power, not leaving enough for a spark, it will crank and crank and not start, however the second the starter button is released, while the engine is still turning over but the starter is not operating, it will fire every time. This is only when vehicle has been left for a while, if in use daily it will start instantly.

ChrisJC

Quote from: 2aLightweight on Nov 17, 2024, 07:35 AMWhat I have also found very strange is that if the battery is not 100% ie if I haven't used vehicle for 2-3 weeks, it often will not start, it seems that the starter takes all the vehicle power, not leaving enough for a spark, it will crank and crank and not start, however the second the starter button is released, while the engine is still turning over but the starter is not operating, it will fire every time. This is only when vehicle has been left for a while, if in use daily it will start instantly.

That symptom was the whole reason for a ballast resistor and a 9V coil. Although whether that is standard fitment I cannot recall.

Chris.

2aLightweight

It originally did it with the Lumenition ignition system I had fitted, assuming it was a fault with that I changed to the cheaper Accuspark but still does it.

Wittsend

How old is the battery ?
5+ years and it will be past its best.

Does the battery hold its charge ?
A good battery should hold charge for at least 2 weeks. Less than a week = get a new battery.
What's the voltage reading across the terminals ?

12.7V and the battery is good
12.4V and the battery is past its best
12 to 12.2V (or lower) - get a new battery

Now the cold weather is here the battery's efficiency goes right down.

A Land Rover in good mechanical condition, well maintained should start on the key, no cranking over and over  :shakinghead
If it does this there's something wrong.

If the vehicle has been left a while then manually prime the carb with the fuel pump arm.
If the vehicle is being left for long periods consider adding a fuel preservative to the tank. More so in these days of E5 and E10.
Also worth fitting a "smart" battery conditioner/trickle charger. You can get these from Aldi and/or Lidl for around £18. When the vehicle is not in use connect up the charger.
No access to mains power - use a solar powered trickle charger.

For a Series Land Rover there is absolutely no need to fit a ballasted coil system  :shakinghead

:big-battery

2aLightweight


Was in use daily, then I parked it up for three weeks, went to use it the other day and cranked and cranked at good speed with no hint of firing from engine. As soon as the starter button was let go it fired on the inertia of the engine spinning over

It has consistently done this ever since the powerlite was fitted seven years ago and the vehicle left unused for a few weeks. I had forgotten about it until it did it last week again as it has been in regular use for twelve months starting instantly.

If I had remembered about it I would've just pressed the starter for a second or two and then released it as it will always fire.


Doona

Morning all. The starter was returned to Powelite late last week, so hopefully an update will follow alittle later.
On the phone they said they had an idea it was the solenoid based on the described symptoms, so we'll see. Fingers crossed

haveyoubooked

Quote from: 2aLightweight on Nov 19, 2024, 06:53 AMWas in use daily, then I parked it up for three weeks, went to use it the other day and cranked and cranked at good speed with no hint of firing from engine. As soon as the starter button was let go it fired on the inertia of the engine spinning over

It has consistently done this ever since the powerlite was fitted seven years ago and the vehicle left unused for a few weeks. I had forgotten about it until it did it last week again as it has been in regular use for twelve months starting instantly.

If I had remembered about it I would've just pressed the starter for a second or two and then released it as it will always fire.



Just a thought, could you be losing you're ignition supply to the coil whilst in crank position due to the ignition switch? Something sticky/tentative/corroded in there that is not enjoying, sitting a few days, but in daily use makes reasonable contact? Had this myself on another vehicle. Easily tested with a test lamp or multimeter.