Engine stand

[Ken]

I need to buy an engine stand and there seem to be a lot available. Are there any recommendations ?

[diffwhine]

I've got an SGS one. Basic but more than adequate for the odd LR 2.25 engine.
I'm sure if you put the word out with a local classic car club, somebody would lend you one. I'd lend you mine if you were closer. I won't need it for a few months.

[Ken]

Thanks Mark, I'll see if there's a classic car club around, we're rather out on a limb here.
I hope to only need it once to sort out the locked engine which I've now identified as a problem with the crank. The end float, which was ok, it seems has disappeared when the clutch / gearbox was fitted and although, looking from below the clearances at either end and at the centre main look ok it's solid. I need to have it apart to rectify the problem and figure out why it happened.
The clutch I fitted was new, Borg and Beck 45481. Stamped the same as the original with no discernible ( visual or measured) difference.
Perhaps there's something I missed in the fitting but whatever I need to see it all apart and the re assembled and be confident it will not happen again.

[W.Slow]

Shame you are the other side of the country, as your be more than welcome to borrow mine.
I brought a generic 1000lb chinesem engine stand for building up my 2.25 diesel this year,
As I'm sure you're aware the best way to attach to the stand is via the side covers:

[geoff]

^^^ Whats with the scissors jack ??

[diffwhine]

I always do the same - it just adds additional support when you aren't moving the engine.

[Peter Holden]

That seems sensible

Peter

[2DieselMan]

There are 2 generic type of engine stand - See the attached photo - the 2 Leg type, which I have prefer and the singe Leg T Type. 

With the 2 Leg type of engine stand when I am not working on the bottom Sump I have a Section of Wood with a stop on one end which just slides across the 2 legs and under the sump, which provided additional support.

I have also built a frame which allows the engine to be attach to the stand via the side covers - This way you can work on 5 Sides of the Engine at the sometime.

[TimV]

I didn't bother with a stand. Put a piece of 1/2" plywood on the floor, worked on the engine from there. Nice and safe. It can't fall very far then.

When I was young and foolish, an engine head fell off the bench onto my big toe, that was over 50 years ago. That toe still is still a different shape.

[RATA1]

As I'm sure you're aware the best way to attach to the stand is via the side covers:

Do you remember what thickness you used for the plates that fix to the engine and the thickness of the box section?

I am thinking/guessing 8mm for the plates and 50x50x5mm for the box.

Thanks

[diffwhine]

You could use an original pair of side plates and weld on to them. They are thick mild steel, not castings (or at least the ones I have here are mild steel). Just watch out - there is some variation in stud pattern.

[Ken]

 Thank you all for the advice, I doubt I'd have thought of mounting the engine sideways. I must admit I'd been concerned at hanging it off the clutch housing and in that context the scissor jack is a very good idea.
I just need to be careful that my crane will fit either side of any legs on whichever stand I get

[Craig T]

I have one of the three legged versions, was given it many years ago.

It has held a number of Rover V8's over the years, My 2 litre engine, my 2286 engine, An international tractor engine block, a Ford Crossflow, and the heaviest engine we put on it was a Ford Cleveland V8 with cast iron heads.

It has done very well and still works a treat.

Craig.

[RATA1]

I need to buy an engine stand and there seem to be a lot available. Are there any recommendations ?

I have two of these:

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/es2000-680kg-folding-engine-stand

Good price I think considering it is very likely the same as a MM one and others.

(Just checked and the 5% code works as well!)

[W.Slow]

I am thinking/guessing 8mm for the plates and 50x50x5mm for the box.

Thanks

I think I went 12mm thick, as they are supporting a heck of a lump, and the box section was about that sort of size.

As diffwhine has said the bolt pattern is a bit odd, so just be aware.
 I drilled the plates at work on the Bridgeport, actually I turned the plates to thickness from some large dia bar ends and then milled them "square" as I didn't have and thick plate kicking around!

The screw jack was my insurance against my unquantifiable welding and the Chinese stand!!.

The side cover mounting allows the whole engine to be built, the flywheel can go on and the whole engine can be timed up on the stand. If one mounts to the flywheel housing as the stand intended your limited with what you can actually do.

The floor comment is fair enough however being able to stand and work at a comfortable level is enough justification for me!! Also it all depends on what you have to lift it as-well, I've only got an I beam chain hoist so can only go linear across the workshop, that would of meant the block would of be right in the way on the floor, on the stand I could wheel it out and work on it as and when. swings and roundabouts as the saying goes!

William