Coolant capacities

[Wittsend]

Also, before putting the antifreeze in - drop a couple of dishwasher tablets in, run it properly to temperature. May help dislodge any muck.

Vital that you check out the radiator for scaling and clogging up.
See my temperature gradient rad picture posted ^^^

Aside from dishwasher tabs there are proprietary radiator cleaning solutions. These require you to put the treatment in the rad and run the engine up to temperature for a while.

When done, a good (reverse) flush-out is needed.

  To begin with DON'T fill your cooling system up with 25% or 33% antifreeze (blue glycol) - use water.
Road test the system to check for leaks - you don't want to waste antifreeze.
Make sure the thermostat (that you have the correct one fitted) and rad cap work - they are consumable items.

When satisfied you have a working cooling system THEN fill up with the correct antifreeze mix depending on where you live and how severe you think the winter will be.

[Dazzerpig]

Thanks Wittsend,system runs completely clear, fitted a new 74 degree thermostat, new rad cap (7lb),deionised water, blue coolant, gave it a run up to the great Henham steam fair yesterday, ran fine but did creep up to 90 degree  at 50mph again dropped down to 80 degre at 30-40mph, drops to normal on series gauge when left to tick over, weather not as hot yesterday so that helped ,it is fitted with standard series exhaust, so now wondering if the exhaust gasses aren't clearing quick enought at speed and causing a heat build up, maybe fitting a compatible exhaust system and/or an oil cooler may help?.
Now off to north Wales for the week but not in land,will look at it again when i get back.

[Wittsend]

You really need an 82°C thermostat in there.

How are you measuring the temperatures

You can't rely on a water temp instrument gauge, they are not that accurate.


  

[w3526602]

Hi,

I've never actually tried this idea of mine ...

Blank off the  radiator, "crack" the pressure cap, then run engine at fast tick-over. Hopefully, it will, eventually boil at very close to 100*C. Then note what your temperature gauge is reading.

Be aware that water won't boil until substantially higher than 100*C if the pressure cap is doing it's job, so it is dangerous to release the pressure cap at above that temperature, as it will boil, furiously, if the pressure is released.

Personal note ... MY pressure cap departed like something leaving Cape Canaveral. Even though I dunked my hand into a convenient (but muddy) puddle, within a couple of seconds of "awareness", I still lost a lot of skin off that hand. I never did find the filler cap.

I suggest that while there is still coolant, or steam, in the system, there should not be any damage to the engine .... but discuss. Vague memories about my Science teacher muttering something about LATENT HEAT and EVAPORATION, but a long time ago. (It takes a lot of heat to convert water into steam, but its temperature does not rise until it is all steam). It is probably best not to get into that situation.

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