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[genocache]

I drove to the bank, and then to a restaurant for a tasty burger.

[andrewR]

Its very warm in Scotland just now. Too nice an evening to try the final last bits of assembly of my hydraulic system and then filling fluid and bleed, after renewing all the cylinders and hoses. Leave that for tomorrow. Instead added another coat of paint to the old bean-can which has actually come up from a "shocking" condition to actually not looking too bad. I flushed it out inside with fresh fluid last night, about 20 goes and a bit of clean ragging in between, until I was convinced it was basically clear of all gunk and "bits". One thing to come out was the remnants of the foil top of a dot 4 container which someone must have dropped in there sometime. There was also a lot of black "gunge" at the bottom which I take to be the product of a chemical reaction between the remains of the old rubber washer off the old lid, with dot 4 fluid, over 60 years. That lid got junked earlier this year and replaced with one off ebay that has a new washer, but I am trying to make the main bean-can live on for a while at least. On the outside, a scrub, not thoroughly to bare metal but just removing loose stuff, a coat of special metals primer slapped on, and 2 coats of black and it starts to look pretty good. First spillage of fluid and it'll all be ruined but hey ho.

For some relaxation, after dinner in the dark under spotlight and party lights with the music on, installed a new bonnet strip with nice new copper "bifurcated rivets" which I got off ebay, as the last one was in strips of string and I'd installed it with pop rivets back in 1988. I spent some time trying to work out which way up the rivets should go, without finding anything conclusive in any of the parts books or online. So I put them in with the "bifurcated" bits UP, so they slot within the 2 thick braids. This seems logical to me, but I have no idea if it is the "right" way. Online advice was to use a pair of plumbers pliers which is a good tip. I also found a strip of plastic (to protect paintwork and rivet underneath) and a length of hex bar made up a good way to squeeze the rivets tightly down, after first splaying the ends a bit with a much smaller set of pliers.

[Larry S.]

Its very warm in Scotland just now. Too nice an evening to try the final last bits of assembly of my hydraulic system and then filling fluid and bleed, after renewing all the cylinders and hoses. Leave that for tomorrow. Instead added another coat of paint to the old bean-can which has actually come up from a "shocking" condition to actually not looking too bad. I flushed it out inside with fresh fluid last night, about 20 goes and a bit of clean ragging in between, until I was convinced it was basically clear of all gunk and "bits". One thing to come out was the remnants of the foil top of a dot 4 container which someone must have dropped in there sometime. There was also a lot of black "gunge" at the bottom which I take to be the product of a chemical reaction between the remains of the old rubber washer off the old lid, with dot 4 fluid, over 60 years. That lid got junked earlier this year and replaced with one off ebay that has a new washer, but I am trying to make the main bean-can live on for a while at least. On the outside, a scrub, not thoroughly to bare metal but just removing loose stuff, a coat of special metals primer slapped on, and 2 coats of black and it starts to look pretty good. First spillage of fluid and it'll all be ruined but hey ho.

For some relaxation, after dinner in the dark under spotlight and party lights with the music on, installed a new bonnet strip with nice new copper "bifurcated rivets" which I got off ebay, as the last one was in strips of string and I'd installed it with pop rivets back in 1988. I spent some time trying to work out which way up the rivets should go, without finding anything conclusive in any of the parts books or online. So I put them in with the "bifurcated" bits UP, so they slot within the 2 thick braids. This seems logical to me, but I have no idea if it is the "right" way. Online advice was to use a pair of plumbers pliers which is a good tip. I also found a strip of plastic (to protect paintwork and rivet underneath) and a length of hex bar made up a good way to squeeze the rivets tightly down, after first splaying the ends a bit with a much smaller set of pliers.

Looks good.  I need to do mine as well.

Since you mentioned what way to place them - which I have no clue either - thought you might find the following interesting.  The website's description doesn't mention the brass washers (I guess that's what they are), but the picture shows them.   

I haven't seen, nor heard ant references to these before.

****
Brass Split Rivets

These special bifurcated rivets were used on a number of applications on Series Land Rovers from 1948-1964. These have been unavailable for years, and we are finally producing these fasteners to original specification.

Applications include:
- 80-inch handbrake and 4WD shift boots
- Hood/bonnet buffer strips from ‘48-64
- Apron panel buffer strips from ’58-64
- Windshield buffer strips from ’48-53.

[andrewR]

Maybe that washer slots over the 2 bifurcated bits, and then you splay it out. That could work.
If you search for "clip 68087" or "rivet 68087" quite a lot of options came up. You need 10 of them (in my LR anyway). Fortunately my pack came with exactly 10, and the strip which is a nice old olive colour and suits the age of the vehicle.

[Larry S.]

Maybe that washer slots over the 2 bifurcated bits, and then you splay it out. That could work.
If you search for "clip 68087" or "rivet 68087" quite a lot of options came up. You need 10 of them (in my LR anyway). Fortunately my pack came with exactly 10, and the strip which is a nice old olive colour and suits the age of the vehicle.

I have no clue how that washer thing is supposed to be used. 

I bought two of the kits you have - olive with 10.  One is going to be used for the bonnet, tge other is going to be cut in half and used on the apron.

[Eve]

Took it for an MOT. It passed with no advisories 

[Daisythelandy]

Had a run down the Clyde Valley for lunch, Landie ran very well and certainly has more oomph with premium petrol (£1.45-ltr) and surely better economy. Avoided the motorway for roadwork reasons and turned a few heads going through Hamilton.
All in all a fine trip out.

Dave.

[g6anz]

I fitted a new battery positive cable as the one in place was A) black with a bit of red tape on one end and B) it was slightly too short so it cut corners on its run. The new one is now loomed in correctly and shows up the rest of the homemade wiring loom.
After a sort run all was OK I felt the wheels for warmth ,as you do, and the rear nearside was distinctly warm to the hand, all the others were cold.  So I eased off the adjuster a click the wheel now spins freely with just a trace of rubbing at one point.

[Wittsend]

OT

11:45 am
Six Red Arrows have just flown over our house at about 500 ft 

They often stop at Norwich International Airport for re-fueling.
They were at RAF Marham yesterday and one was grounded by a bird strike.

Maybe the others will come over later.

[Wittsend]

Here's something Land Rover based ....

Just tapped out the holes for the mud shield on the timing cover - the holes take an M6 tap.

Should make any future replacement of the front crank seal a little easier.





 

[crumbly65]

Remembered why I'd spent my working life doing things other than being a fitter/mechanic....  And why I normally get my LR trained mechanic to look after my S2.

Decided to do a very simple job myself.  Connect the Carb to Dizzie new vacuum pipe.  In order to access rear of the dizzie and get the run right, and remove the old pipe, I removed the hose & oil bath air cleaner.  Rested it on top of the battery but forgot to remove the earth, so the battery was live!!!   

Cue a big bang, sparks, and a hole in the bottom of the oil bath and oil all over the place.   

Feeling utterly stupid, careless and ashamed.  What a walley..........

[Wittsend]

15:05

Red Arrows just buzzed us....

[Davidss]

... I removed the hose & oil bath air cleaner.  Rested it on top of the battery but forgot to remove the earth, so the battery was live!!!   

Cue a big bang, sparks, and a hole in the bottom of the oil bath and oil all over the place.  ...

I bang on and on about fitting 'non-original' covers on both the live and earth terminals on batteries, especially considering how close the live terminal is normally to the earthed battery retaining clamp.

I have formed the distinct impression no-one else sees the obvious danger.

Thank you for highlighting one of the advantages of double insulation.

Regards.

[crumbly65]

I bang on and on about fitting 'non-original' covers on both the live and earth terminals on batteries, especially considering how close the live terminal is normally to the earthed battery retaining clamp.

I have formed the distinct impression no-one else sees the obvious danger.

Thank you for highlighting one of the advantages of double insulation.

Regards.

Thank you David, an absolutely valid comment, and one I will act on.

Though I can't help but think I'd be less dangerous if I had  brain.......

[g6anz]

Look on the bright side. It proves the battery is (was) a good one.