Quote from: Wastell123 on Dec 28, 2023, 02:01 PM

Quote from: stevesharpe on Dec 28, 2023, 01:12 PMAnyone got a feel for the cost of chassis replacement? I realise there may be extras when rebuilding, but just the basic cost

At the moment i have just stripped down the beast. but the cost of the chassis is just over £2K with delivery etc

Only just getting used to using this posting thing (will have to seak technical assistance for 5 year grandson soon)

Yes its just the chassis, the project will be many many more pennies before its finished
 

Hi,

I believe a factory chassis is 1/16" (16swg) thick, while a heavy duty replacement chassis 1/8" thick (10swg) thick.

So about twice the weight, without including the bucket full of zinc for the galvanising.

I'm happy to be corrected.

602

Hi,

My last chassis (Richards) arrived on the back of a lorry with HYAB.

The HYAB lifted it into my little 4ft x 3ft box trailer, after which I was able to, single handed, push it into my garage. If you haven't got a trailer ... they are very useful bits of kit, so if you can find a cheapy, and have a corner to hide it in ....

I lifted the chassis off the trailer with a 15cwt (pull?) intended to pull a boat out of the water directly onto a trailer. I used that winch many times to pull Land Rover projects up my 1:8 drive, and into my garage. Note!

There was no SWL quoted for LIFTING weights, but I once used it, swung from my gantry, to lift a combined LR engine with gearbox. It cost me £15, new, from TOWSURE, but that was a long time ago. I don't think the 6m of cable was included. Do not fit more cable than you need, as it increases the effective drum diameter, so the effort required increases with the amount of cable on the drum.

It would be nice if the chassis manufacturer could give sone idea of the location of the Centre of Gravity of their chassis, or even weld on a couple of seat-belt nuts in the appropriate locations (maybe inside the frame, if they don't trust their welding.)

I believe, but do your own research, that a replacement chassis must be purchased DIRECT from the manufacturer, no middle men. You may, one day, be called upon to provide a document trail.

I also believe that chassis manufacturers stamp their own chassis number onto each chassis, but nobody seems to know where.

602

Quote from: w3526602 on Jan 07, 2024, 04:20 AMI believe, but do your own research, that a replacement chassis must be purchased DIRECT from the manufacturer, no middle men. You may, one day, be called upon to provide a document trail.

I also believe that chassis manufacturers stamp their own chassis number onto each chassis, but nobody seems to know where.

I think this subject has been covered ad infinitum on here. As long as it is proven to be a new previously unfitted component, that is no problem. A receipt to prove where it came from would of course be prudent.

Some manufacturers will stamp the old chassis number if the correct evidence has been provided. Any other number they stamp will only be their own reference number as their number will not be an authorised number relating to the original vehicle's identity.

I think this subject has been covered ad infinitum on here.

Hi Diffwhine,

In which case, I will apologise in advance for the following.

The rules say that the new chassis must be purchased directly from the manufacturer, which would imply that if you purchase a chassis and then, for whatever reason, are unable to use it, it will become valueless.

The rules say (I think) that the new chassis must be obtained from "the factory", but do not indicate which factory. I would take that as a requirement for the factory to be the same factory that made the original chassis ... Land Rover. For some reason, I have it in my mind, that most of British car body-shells were all made by one manufacturer, but I can't remember their name. I'll try a Google later.

Doh! My ladies tell me my presence is required, in bed, for lunch. I will return in about 15-20 minutes.

602

For some reason, I have it in my mind, that most of British car body-shells were all made by one manufacturer, but I can't remember their name. I'll try a Google later.

Hi,

Apparently, I probably thought wrong.

But I did find that most current replacement body SHELLS are made by British Heritage (Google) using the original presses, which suggests they have approval from the original manufacturers.

602

Pressed Steel Fisher used to make some body shells

Peter

Hopefully this might close off this discussion about new chassis... On Friday I spoke with the DVSA on a different matter relating to construction and build on commercial vehicles. I raised the question about chassis replacement on Land Rover vehicles (those built with a  seperate chassis).

As was my understanding, there is no problem replacing a chassis on such vehicles as part of structural repairs or due to crash / impact damage. As we know, a second hand chassis must never be used, although my contact did say that in the past this has been approved in some very special cases. The general rule is that if a new like-for-like replacement is a available, then that is the correct course of action.

I then asked what constitutes "new" in these circumstances? Answer - any chassis which has been manufactured to a similar specification to the original one which will not impact on the originality of the vehicle's registration. It can be purchased from a retailer, manufacturer or even a self build as long as it has not previously been fitted or attempted to be fitted to a vehicle. Equally if a chassis has been purchased by a company or private individual for a vehicle repair, they can legitimately sell it on unused provided the above criteria has been met and there is an audit trail proving the origins of supply.

Remember that the rules are really there now to manage commercial vehicles and modification as they are really the only ones which require significant chassis modification or replacement. The rules are there for commercial fleet assembly and not really for our little segment changing a chassis frame on an old Land Rover.

The person I spoke to was clearly very knowledgable and helpful and as far as I could tell, confirmed my view that a replacement frame does not need to be sourced directly from a manufacturer. It can come from an agent, a  retailer or even a private sale as long as it is proven as new, unused and has not been stamped with another vehicle's identity.

I therefore understand this to mean that buying a new unsused old stock chassis from somebody or a company is not a problem. Equally, for those brave enough, there is no problem making a new chassis from new steel to the original design. The current list of suppliers of chassis are not approved or authorised by DVLA/DVSA.

I recently rebuilt the original chassis on my series one.
Measuring the main rails they seemed to be between 2.3 and 2.5mm thick or whatever that was in imperial / SWG sizes.

No one works in these sizes now, steel is supplied in metric thicknesses so the new chassis suppliers probably use what they can get without going thinner. I struggled to find anyone selling sheet steel in sizes between 2mm and 3mm so all the repairs to the side rails on my chassis were done in the thicker 3mm sheet.

I did manage to find someone who had 2.5mm sheet but only in small sizes. managed to get enough to remake the bottom of the bellhousing crossmember with that. As it had to be curved in a couple of places, glad I didn't try it in 3mm material.

Craig.

Hi Everybody who replied above.

Thanks for various clarifications about who can do what.

I have always assumed, for no reason whatsoever, that the original chassis were made from 16G (would that be Standard Wire Gauge?), which equated to 1/16". A quick blur of fingers over my calculator ... 16 divided by 25.4 ... gave me 1.5875mm ... as near as dammit 1.6mm.

Hmmm! 16G = 1/16" = 1.6mm. That should be easy to remember, or maybe I'm talking absolute rubbish?

Not so easy to remember is that 1/8" = 3mm (corrected) = 10G (I think).

I'll let the Resident Engineers tear that lot apart.

602

Having said the points above, Peter our VRO has pointed out that in reality, DVLA don't know where they are coming or going. Its all a bit vague! I don't think it changes the definition of "new" in this case, but I would suggest that its best to fully document the source of any major component or chassis supply for any vehicle - just in case...

We were probably feeling weak but we used 4 men to shift my new Richard's 109 chassis relatively comfortably.

Hi,

I have always moved my HD chassis, 88 and 109, single handed.

Mind you, I have always asked the delivery drivers to drop them onto my 4ft x 3ft trailer, with weight biased slightly towards the drawbar.

I have used a 15cwt boat winch (not too expensive NEW. Get a TOWSURE catalogue, or INDESPENSION if you are well heeled), and/or sturdy ratchet straps to lift (keeping them horizontal) up to my garage roof trusses. Cheaper ratchet straps tend to twist, which makes them thicker, so you can't get as much strap onto the drum.

Buy at least two more straps than you think you will need. I suggest 6 in total. And don't walk underneath a hanging load.

602

Quote from: Craig T on Jan 08, 2024, 09:12 AMI recently rebuilt the original chassis on my series one.
Measuring the main rails they seemed to be between 2.3 and 2.5mm thick or whatever that was in imperial / SWG sizes.

No one works in these sizes now, steel is supplied in metric thicknesses so the new chassis suppliers probably use what they can get without going thinner

Bizarrely I broke my awning in the high wind at Masham show this year (too many beers, too little respect for the forces of nature) and had the opposite problem - being a cheap awning it was made in metric gauge aluminium tube but everyone at least up north works in proper measurements for aluminium

65 thou is stronger than 1.5 mm so it's a better repair in any case. But truly no idea why steel is sold in metric and aluminium in imperial

Hi,

I got the delivery drivers to drop my chassis onto my little 4ft x 3ft trailer, after which I could man-handle it myself. Lifting up to the rafters in my garage, however, required the use of several ratchet straps ... the bigger the better. Lift with three, and when those get "strap bound", start again with another three. It's slow but it gets you there. Don't go underneath until it is secured with all six straps., and even then, be careful.

602

When I rebuilt my 86" S1 I could just move the bare chassis around off the floor by myself,  by first tipping it up onto it side , starting with a trolley jack  to get it to about 45 degrees and then lifting it up putting my arms under the side rail and straightening up . I then had it galvanised and it was too heavy for me to lift on my own. The galvanisers lifted it onto my Sankey trailer and I was fortunate that the barn I was working in had a 3/4 to chain hoist so I was able to lift it off and when fitting the axles loosely to just be able to move it round.