New month ... off we go to the Club's Annual Rally 

Ongoing project to retro fit period correct exhaust layout.

Now refitted a new exhaust manifold and rebuilt the whole manifold assembly.

One thing, once I took the old one off it became apparent that the manifold had cracked on the number 4 outlet, underneath where I couldn't see it. So a good job I took it apart.

The inlet manifold was not in the best of condition where it joins to the exhaust manifold. Obviously it's been leaking slightly for a long time. The alloy was burnt away, so used a better manifold I had in the shed.

Now to finally fit the new side exit exhaust. Hopefully plain sailing from now.

Trying to fit the sill rails and getting frustrated that they seem a bit high. I'm getting the feeling that the bulkhead would really be better off if it were 5mm higher. No room to manoeuvre vertically though is there.

So before I go grinding away at the sill rails to drop them down so I can have a level floor I decided to stick the front end on to get an idea of the woes I'm going to have getting that all lined up.

You know what, I think there's a light at the end of the tunnel. Wings, rad panel and bonnet slot in place like a treat. No issues at all that I can see that won't be solved when the bolts are done up tight. One hell of a relief since none of the rest of the truck has just fit first try.

Let's hope nothing shrinks at the painters!

Project completed!  Period side exit exhaust successfully fitted.

Slightly noisier, but not in an unpleasant way, indeed gives a nice faint crackle on acceleration.

The front pipe dropping down below the chassis rail isn't visible unless you duck down to look. Yes it will be more vulnerable to damage if off road and going over obstacles, I suppose that's why it was modified.

I only had to manufacture one bracket, at the rear tailpipe to right hand rear chassis/outrigger position. Easy to make and held in place by stainless steel rivnuts.

New manifold had to be fitted. I think it's running better with this. I suppose the reassembly with new gaskets all round on the manifold system will help. I was surprised how degraded the old setup was. I knew a stud had sheared on the down pipe, but the crack in the number 4 cylinder header, and the leaks around the heat transfer joint to the inlet manifold must have had an effect.

Perhaps dismantling and rebuilding the inlet/exhaust tract should be a more regular maintenance task.

Fitted a new rocker cover breather cap which I found in my spares and which I'd forgotten about and sprayed brake/clutch cleaner into the old one and left it to soak.

Getting ready for the rally, oils changed, general check over, new rear prop shaft, made a bed frame for the back, bit of insulation on the inside of the roof, I'll get all my tools and spares etc gathered up tomorrow ready for the off on Thursday.
Phil.

But tomorrow is only Sunday.

Don't forget to give the banners to Laura Claborn

Peter

Quote from: Peter Holden on Aug 03, 2024, 06:41 PMBut tomorrow is only Sunday.

Don't forget to give the banners to Laura Claborn

Peter

Won't have much time during the week, so getting as much done as I can over the weekend.

Quote from: Peter Holden on Aug 03, 2024, 06:41 PMBut tomorrow is only Sunday.

Don't forget to give the banners to Laura Claborn

Peter

Peter Lara is only popping in briefly, if the banners are for the stand it may be better for me to collect them.

Finished off the clutch with new hard line from MC to flexi, filled and bled. Not sure if that is how is supposed to look so feel free to send me photos of yours.
Those horrible blue connectors will be sorted eventually (not my work). Not sure if there should be a junction box there.

Replaced the stocking and cable ties on the fuel pick up, as fitted by the PO, with a proper gauze one I got on ebay, nicely made. Cleaned up the tube, refitted it and lifted the tank back into the chassis.
Took off the rest of the rusty exhaust and brackets ready for the stainless system.

Still a lot to do. overdrive being needed before it will move.

I brush painted a second coat of undercoat on my new driver's floor then went over my old loom reinstituting original wires bypassed by previous hands. My little butane powered soldering iron was a boon. Most times bullet connectors had come off one or both ends so paring back to bright wire and splicing in a short length of new and soldering and 2 x heatshrink was sufficient to restore their function. I'm chuckling as I see my traits as a stained glass restorer coming into my loom restoration. Of course buying new would be easier but I like the challenge.

I've "lost" the horn push to junction box wire, and wasn't able to identify the wire in the junction box to the horn using a continuity tester. However, with reference to my pre-stripdown photos I can clearly see one labelled "horn button wire" going into the junction box so I'll look again tomorrow.

Some malicious interference back in the late eighties when the vehicle had no door locks has resulted in previous repairs to the loom behind the dash.

The multicolored insulating tape of the first photo was my intermediate period attempt at improvement in the late eighties after having removed the rotten oil soaked cotton weave sheathing before I knew cloth tape replacement was available.

One thing, I was unsure whether to run the LT wire to the dizzy with the oil pressure and temperature switch wires next to the engine block.

Finished servicing and preparing mine for a trip to Scotland from Kent. Should be entertaining.

What have I done with my S2 today ? A very stupid thing !

Preparing Dormy for the National, I somehow knocked the feed wire for the electronic ignition off the coil. For some unfathomable reason, I put it back on the wrong terminal then tried to start the engine. As the engine turned over and didn't fire (Dormy usually starts on-the-key) I immediately knew what I had done. Sure enough, no spark indicated a blown Hall effect sensor.

I keep a points set available just in case, then found problem no. 2; The brand new generic points I had did not have enough adjustment to actually open ! I had to resort to a file to make the adjuster hole slightly more elongated to get sufficient gap on the points.

A road test now shows everything alright and OK to go to Fakenham (thank goodness it's only 30 miles) !

Does anyone have a spare Hall effect sensor ? I really hate the poor quality of modern points and condensers.

Fitted the new SS exhaust. Bit of a faff. Mounted the OD but the bolts are about 1/8" too long for my transfer case so temporarily packed with some washers I had rather than cut them as didn't have a bolt or die to clean the threads. I'll sort that in the week.

Put some petrol in the empty tank, primed the filler glass/carb, connected the air filter and other bits I took off. Used a jump lead to temporarily earth the gear box as I couldn't find the strap and started it. Turned over a few times but did fire after a short while. Exhaust sounds nice and no leaks like the old one.

Time for a tidy up.

As I am waiting for bits, took the rusty battery box out from the seat box as the sun was out.
Not really worth saving.

Replace with a aluminium or steel one..🤔