This is a job I have to tackle soon so seeing the pics of the homemade tool is very helpful!

I made my one out of some angle iron from an old bed, isn't very beautiful, but it works a treat

Quote from: g6anz on Aug 15, 2024, 07:06 PMSpent a happy few hours replacing the pinion oil seal on the rear axle. Although it's a late 2A the oil seal is the same as on a series 3. Much easier to replace. I had to make a tool to lock the input so the nut could be undone without putting strain on the gear teeth.

A job I need to do in front axle. It's got freewheel hubs so I've been keeping them free to stop the axle turning. The oil comes out of the pinion if I put any in, so running it with minimal oil at the moment.

Did you take any more photos, and have you got any tips? It looks simple enough.

Worth noting that the actual pinion flanges are cheap. Cheaper than a shaft repair sleeve, so often it's simplest just to fit a new flange and seal. All the details are in the workshop manual

Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 16, 2024, 07:37 AMWorth noting that the actual pinion flanges are cheap. Cheaper than a shaft repair sleeve, so often it's simplest just to fit a new flange and seal. All the details are in the workshop manual

I also need to do the front output flange on the transfer box! She a leaky old girl at the moment!

Now the transfer box flange is not cheap! Front is expensive and the rear is stupidly expensive. Both of them will need shaft repair sleeves fitted if they are worn, pitted or corroded.

99162 is the transfer box flange shaft repair sleeve number for the SKF or equivalent item

Went to a small car show without the tilt on.
It rained...😂😂😂

Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 16, 2024, 08:56 AMNow the transfer box flange is not cheap! Front is expensive and the rear is stupidly expensive. Both of them will need shaft repair sleeves fitted if they are worn, pitted or corroded.

99162 is the transfer box flange shaft repair sleeve number for the SKF or equivalent item

I got a NOS off ebay. Got this one for £48 as a best offer.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285891561489?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7Nm_suhnRky&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=i0sTKmkXTVK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I also got a few sleeves for <£15.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124910718134?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=x-l2oqDPTb6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=i0sTKmkXTVK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The two I got were SKF so a good price.

As I said in my post, note the age of the axle. Those in late manufacture (1969 etc) have a series 3 axle which has a different seal when compared with a series 2.

Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 16, 2024, 08:56 AMNow the transfer box flange is not cheap! Front is expensive and the rear is stupidly expensive. Both of them will need shaft repair sleeves fitted if they are worn, pitted or corroded.

99162 is the transfer box flange shaft repair sleeve number for the SKF or equivalent item

I bought a Speedi Sleeve off Ebay last week, was about £14.
The fitting tool supplied with it is not long enough to get it all the way down the shaft though.
I borrowed a LR related tool from work that should do the job.👍

A layshaft rear bearing seat is the perfect fit to add as an extension.

Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 16, 2024, 10:01 AMA layshaft rear bearing seat is the perfect fit to add as an extension.

Or a 3D printer

Quote from: diffwhine on Aug 16, 2024, 08:56 AMNow the transfer box flange is not cheap! Front is expensive and the rear is stupidly expensive. Both of them will need shaft repair sleeves fitted if they are worn, pitted or corroded.

99162 is the transfer box flange shaft repair sleeve number for the SKF or equivalent item

Thanks, that's useful info. 👍

At last I got around to fitting the genuine Series 3 fuel tank sender unit I bought from Emberton months ago. Removing the 'orrible Britpart one revealed that the float and its rod was missing. It's supposed to be attached to the rod on the unit. Fortunately I have a small magnet on the end of a flexible arm and fishing about I pulled the rod and float to the top only to drop it when trying to get it through the aperture. A bit more fishing and I pulled it up again and this time I made sure I didn't drop it. When it was out I threw it down the drive
The Emberton unit has only one contact and should be earthed through the tank but I'd made an earth wire for the Britpart one and it was just a matter of crimping a forked connect to the sender unit end and positioning it under one of the securing screws. Lo and behold a working fuel gauge which has not being doing so for ages
The temperature gauge reads erratically now and again as if the engine is overheating. Now the fuel gauge is working it also reads erratically when the temperature gauge does thus pointing to my original diagnosis of a faulty voltage stabiliser. I can live with it and I'll get around to replacing it sometime. I've got a spare.
Again, patience paid off in fishing out the remains of the old sender unit.

Despite what the "book" or others say - you need a separate earthing wire for the fuel tank sender.

If your "spare" voltage stabiliser doesn't work then you could do worse and buy this off ebay


Electronic voltage stabiliser

I've had several of these with no problems